Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Squealing From Shimano Disk brake

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Squealing From Shimano Disk brake

Old 08-03-23, 08:58 AM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,975

Bikes: Habanero Titanium Team Nuevo

Liked 187 Times in 123 Posts
Squealing From Shimano Disk brake

My Shimano road hydraulic front brake is really squealing. I put new identical pads in and really over past 400 miles they have gotten worse. I cleaned the rotor with ISO Alcohol. I clean the pads with it and even used some sandpaper to get them clean. To me they look clean not contaminated, but that is what they claim is the problem. The rotor is true the brake pads don't rub but sort of hit the side of one of the pads, but just minor and it doesn't cause the wheel to slow down just spinning it. I have come to believe with small tolerances of clearance between pads can cause a slight rub nothing drastic for sure. I am at a loss.

The pads are not worn at all. The rear makes no noise but of course the front brake stops the bike. The brake works fine but wow does it make noise. I am competent mechanic and nothing seems to be working. I am I missing something?
deacon mark is offline  
Old 08-03-23, 09:21 AM
  #2  
aged to perfection
 
mpetry912's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: PacNW
Posts: 1,897

Bikes: Dinucci Allez 2.0, Richard Sachs, Alex Singer, Serotta, Masi GC, Raleigh Pro Mk.1, Hetchins, etc

Liked 1,317 Times in 698 Posts
OK, so first thing I would suggest is to "align" the caliper as follows :

- loosen the two caliper mounting bolts about a full turn so the caliper is able to move a little bit
- wobble the caliper a little bit so it is truly loose
- squeeze the brake lever 3-4 times and then "hold it" - use an assistant or a rubber band around the lever
- now with the brake lever clamped down locking the caliper in place, tighten the caliper mounting bolts
- be sure to snug them both down, and then torque them to final torque - don't just tighten one and then the other.

and then do a test ride. See if that doesn't help. Report back.

if it's still squealing then take the pads out and look for even wear - make sure you don't have one pad "cocked" inside the caliper

but I'm betting this will help. I do this whenever I change pads

/markp
mpetry912 is offline  
Likes For mpetry912:
Old 08-03-23, 11:32 AM
  #3  
I'm good to go!
 
Iride01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 15,416

Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020

Liked 5,020 Times in 3,454 Posts
Originally Posted by deacon mark
I am I missing something?
Of course you are missing something. If you weren't they'd be working correctly and not making any noise.

What the issue is I've no idea. So not worth venturing any of the typical things. I'm just glad I've not had any issues with mine. I've got over 5000 miles on the original pads and they still aren't near the replacement wear Shimano suggests. Maybe I should use them more!
Iride01 is online now  
Old 08-03-23, 12:30 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Golden, CO and Tucson, AZ
Posts: 2,864

Bikes: 2012 Specialized Elite Disc, 1983 Trek 520

Liked 790 Times in 445 Posts
Originally Posted by Iride01
...I'm just glad I've not had any issues with mine. I've got over 5000 miles on the original pads and they still aren't near the replacement wear Shimano suggests. Maybe I should use them more!
I know Mississippi isn't completely flat, but try riding in the Rockies! On a good year I climb a quarter million feet. I change my front pads every year, with only 3000 miles on them. Rears last over twice as long. I keep a couple sets in stock.

To the OP, if it's not alignment, consider a new disc. If it got contaminated with brake fluid, it may not be salvageable.
andrewclaus is offline  
Old 08-03-23, 12:39 PM
  #5  
t2p
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2022
Location: USA - Southwest PA
Posts: 3,331

Bikes: Cannondale - Gary Fisher - Giant - Litespeed - Schwinn Paramount - Schwinn (lugged steel) - Trek OCLV

Liked 2,147 Times in 1,198 Posts
had a squealing problem

caliper alignment checked out - was good

rotor / pad light sanding and cleaning (iso alcohol) stopped the squealing initially - but then it returned after a few rides

replaced the pads and now no issues

original pads were J03A - replacement pads the newer J05A

still have J03A pads on another bike - similar rotors - many more miles and no issues


you could try the squeal out stuff - heard that works well - but I just replaced the pads
t2p is offline  
Old 08-03-23, 01:14 PM
  #6  
LR÷P=HR
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 2,246

Bikes: 1981 Holdsworth Special, 1993 C-dale MT3000 & 1996 F700CAD3, 2018 & 2019 Cervelo R3’s & 2022 R5, JustGo Runt, Ridley Oval, Kickr Bike 8-)

Liked 1,257 Times in 724 Posts
Seeing as it's your front brake, check for play in the Headset.

Barry
Barry2 is offline  
Old 08-03-23, 04:23 PM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 39,144

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Liked 2,962 Times in 1,642 Posts
Disc brake squeal is a common issue, not only in bikes. It's caused by pad vibration and is usually worst with light braking (slowing, or holding speed on descents) and stops at higher braking force where they're pressed more firmly against the disc. Generally, but not always, it resolves over time, but may return under certain conditions, like rain or high humidity.

The key is to address the vibration and here's two tricks.

1- reduce "bite" by chamfering the leading edges (toward back of the bike) slightly before mounting the pads.
2- on my car, I use a light adhesive when installing the pads. This increases stability and prevents squealing. Can't say about bikes because I don't use disc brakes there, but it should help.

If it doesn't resolve on it's own, and you can't solve it mechanically, learn to modulate brake use around the issue by, for example, using more brake at intervals vs. steady light braking.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Likes For FBinNY:
Old 08-03-23, 05:20 PM
  #8  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Albuquerque NM USA
Posts: 561
Liked 346 Times in 217 Posts
I've been using disc brakes for a while on multiple bikes. But recently I made a point to read (or maybe it was a Shimano video) what Shimano had to say about bedding in the brakes. One of the issues mentioned was that if not done correctly, you can get squealing. They suggested getting up to 12-15 MPH and applying only the brake you're working on until you slow to a walking pace. But DON'T come to a stop. Repeat this 15-20 times.

I will say from experience, that I've contaminated brake pads with brake fluid (mineral oil) and no amount of cleaning ever made them usable again. They looked perfect, especially after cleaning and a light sanding. They looked dry as a bone. But still no good. Maybe there is some magic way to clean them, but certainly it's not as simple as just soaking them in a solvent.
Mtracer is offline  
Old 08-03-23, 11:06 PM
  #9  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,752
Liked 212 Times in 135 Posts
Propane torch will clean the pads. People will frown on doing it but it works. Heat those suckers up and burn off any contaminates.
Canker is offline  
Likes For Canker:
Old 08-04-23, 06:21 AM
  #10  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Northern NY...Brownville
Posts: 2,602

Bikes: Specialized Aethos, Specialized Diverge Comp E5

Liked 477 Times in 282 Posts
Squealing is usually a contamination problem and thorough cleaning may or may not solve the problem.
There is a product call "Squeal Out" that I use and has eliminated squealing every time I've used it.
I've used all of the above solutions but sometimes none of them work...boy oh boy is it ever aggravating and time consuming. But Squeal Out works.
Kai Winters is offline  
Old 08-04-23, 08:31 AM
  #11  
I'm good to go!
 
Iride01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 15,416

Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020

Liked 5,020 Times in 3,454 Posts
Have you considered any cleaners you might use on your bike? Especially if you are spraying something on or near the bike. Where is that overspray going? On the rotors perhaps?

If you are having to bleed your brakes whether occasionally or frequently, then you likely have a leak and fluid getting on the pads.
Iride01 is online now  
Old 08-04-23, 12:32 PM
  #12  
Senior Member
 
Troul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Mich
Posts: 7,709

Bikes: RSO E-tire dropper fixie brifter

Liked 3,206 Times in 2,037 Posts
Originally Posted by Canker
Propane torch will clean the pads. People will frown on doing it but it works. Heat those suckers up and burn off any contaminates.
I'd spray the pads down liberally with brake parts cleaner prior, let them fully dry, rinse them with clean water, let them fully dry, & then heat them up with an open flame. Probably not MAPP gas [if you have it still] ; propane should be good enough for the purpose.
__________________
-YMMV
Troul is offline  
Old 08-04-23, 01:24 PM
  #13  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,752
Liked 212 Times in 135 Posts
I was curious since I actually used MAPP on my pads and wanted to see the temp difference. Turns out "MAPP" hasn't been made since 2008 and the current "MAPP" is actually MAP-PRO and only burns around 150 degrees hotter than propane so it really doesn't matter.
Canker is offline  
Likes For Canker:
Old 08-04-23, 02:00 PM
  #14  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,975

Bikes: Habanero Titanium Team Nuevo

Liked 187 Times in 123 Posts
Today I cleaned the rotor with iso alcohol and a scotch brite pad. I also aligned the calipers, but I do not think that was the problem they seem to go back to where they were supposed to and no rubbing. I then took bike on a 65 mile ride but is was foggy and damp so moisture on things. I actually did very little braking this was all in country on roads do not stop. I did notice some squealing as usually but being damp I was not sure. Then I noticed at end of ride it seemed to require more braking to get it to squeal. One nice thing about my set up now is the brake lever free stroke is perfect. When I first got the bike 4 months ago I did not like the right brake going almost to the bar to stop. I manage to finally between some bleeding and adjusting get it to bite earlier. This to me is even more important the squealing brakes. So, the short answer is I will have to see how it goes when I ride more today was weird not much braking at all the whole ride.
deacon mark is offline  
Likes For deacon mark:
Old 08-05-23, 09:39 AM
  #15  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,975

Bikes: Habanero Titanium Team Nuevo

Liked 187 Times in 123 Posts
Also, what are the equivalent pads that come from other manufacturers that do not have the fins. I cannot always figure it out base on the codes the show that the pads work for. Unless they say 7o70 or shimano R7020 I am cannot tell. Seems the road pads are different that mtn bike pads.
deacon mark is offline  
Old 08-05-23, 10:43 AM
  #16  
aged to perfection
 
mpetry912's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: PacNW
Posts: 1,897

Bikes: Dinucci Allez 2.0, Richard Sachs, Alex Singer, Serotta, Masi GC, Raleigh Pro Mk.1, Hetchins, etc

Liked 1,317 Times in 698 Posts
You can spray all manner of goop in there, clean with depleted uranium or whatever, hard pads are going to screech until and unless they are properly warmed up. They are "metallic" so not really a surprise !

when doing track days in the car we would install "racing" pads of a much harder compound.

Especially when brand new those pads howled like crazy. It took between 5-8 heat cycles to get them to where they delivered the promised braking performance and quieted down.

even so, they screeched moderately until warmed up. Quit using them as they were hell on the rotors.

I think there's something to be said for NOT using the hard pads (metallic compounds) unless you are doing mega downhills and such.

for normal around town riding you are never going to develop the brake temps to realize the benefit of hard pads.

I'm currently running Swiss Stop "e-bike" compound and to be honest the first application of the brake there is a tiny bit of howl, they quiet down after that.

Probably not going to get them again. Just regular old shimano pads. "organic"

/markp

Last edited by mpetry912; 08-05-23 at 10:52 AM.
mpetry912 is offline  
Old 08-05-23, 01:02 PM
  #17  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,975

Bikes: Habanero Titanium Team Nuevo

Liked 187 Times in 123 Posts
These are resin pads supposed to the quietest..
deacon mark is offline  
Old 08-05-23, 02:11 PM
  #18  
Senior Member
 
Troul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Mich
Posts: 7,709

Bikes: RSO E-tire dropper fixie brifter

Liked 3,206 Times in 2,037 Posts
I tend to wonder if whomever is cutting the rotors are not doing it to an ideal RA & just to a "polished" finish?
__________________
-YMMV
Troul is offline  
Old 08-05-23, 03:08 PM
  #19  
aged to perfection
 
mpetry912's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: PacNW
Posts: 1,897

Bikes: Dinucci Allez 2.0, Richard Sachs, Alex Singer, Serotta, Masi GC, Raleigh Pro Mk.1, Hetchins, etc

Liked 1,317 Times in 698 Posts
Originally Posted by deacon mark
These are resin pads supposed to the quietest..
then you've got some other problem that is resisting conventional methods to resolve.

ISO disk format or center lock ? Front and rear both or front only.

confirm disk attachment bolts or lock ring is / are properly torqued and checked ?

somebody made a comment about chamfering / bevelling the leading edge of the pads.

I might do that next if I were you

/markp

Last edited by mpetry912; 08-05-23 at 03:17 PM.
mpetry912 is offline  
Likes For mpetry912:
Old 08-05-23, 04:53 PM
  #20  
Senior Member
 
Troul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Mich
Posts: 7,709

Bikes: RSO E-tire dropper fixie brifter

Liked 3,206 Times in 2,037 Posts
Originally Posted by deacon mark
These are resin pads supposed to the quietest..
Try the propane treatment?
__________________
-YMMV
Troul is offline  
Old 08-05-23, 08:59 PM
  #21  
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 130
Liked 69 Times in 32 Posts
Originally Posted by Troul
I tend to wonder if whomever is cutting the rotors are not doing it to an ideal RA & just to a "polished" finish?


I had problems with a squeaking front rotor, basics didn't seem to work, so I took a chance and spent the money for a Shimano Ice Tech rotor problem solved. ( Also installed new caliper mounting bolts and made sure the caliper mounting surfaces were as true, smooth and clean as I could by hand.)
hevysrf is offline  
Likes For hevysrf:
Old 08-06-23, 04:40 PM
  #22  
Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2023
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
With the older rim brakes, we’d angle the pads ever so slightly. No squeaking. Not sure if this would work with disc brakes, but might be a solution.
RyRock is offline  
Old 08-10-23, 12:24 AM
  #23  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Mt Shasta, CA, USA
Posts: 2,150

Bikes: Too many. Giant Trance X 29, Surly Midnight Special get the most time.

Liked 318 Times in 241 Posts
Originally Posted by RyRock
With the older rim brakes, we’d angle the pads ever so slightly. No squeaking. Not sure if this would work with disc brakes, but might be a solution.
This is not a thing with disc brakes. Why try to offer advice on something you’re not knowledgeable about?
cpach is offline  
Old 08-10-23, 07:22 AM
  #24  
Full Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Framingham, MA
Posts: 286

Bikes: 2022 Pinarello Paris Di2, 2016 Orbea Avant Ultegra mounted on a Wahoo Kickr Core

Liked 124 Times in 76 Posts
I had the same problem the original poster described. Like others suggested, I tried all the easy fixes. I cleaned the pads. When that didn't work, I loosened the caliper and recentered the rotor. My last try was replacing the pads. With each 'fix', the squeal disappeared for a short while but returned.

I then assumed there was a caliper issue and took the bike to my local shop. The tech removed the pads and the back side of one pad was wet, indicating the caliper had a leak and brake fluid was getting on the pad causing the squeal. They are working with Shimano to try and get me a new caliper.
oldwinger14 is offline  
Old 08-10-23, 08:52 AM
  #25  
t2p
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2022
Location: USA - Southwest PA
Posts: 3,331

Bikes: Cannondale - Gary Fisher - Giant - Litespeed - Schwinn Paramount - Schwinn (lugged steel) - Trek OCLV

Liked 2,147 Times in 1,198 Posts
Originally Posted by oldwinger14
I had the same problem the original poster described. Like others suggested, I tried all the easy fixes. I cleaned the pads. When that didn't work, I loosened the caliper and recentered the rotor. My last try was replacing the pads. With each 'fix', the squeal disappeared for a short while but returned.

I then assumed there was a caliper issue and took the bike to my local shop. The tech removed the pads and the back side of one pad was wet, indicating the caliper had a leak and brake fluid was getting on the pad causing the squeal. They are working with Shimano to try and get me a new caliper.
I’ve seen / had leaking calipers - unfortunately not uncommon

one caliper appeared to be leaking during the cold winter months - could see slight oil residue on the back part of the pads - but it appeared to improve / go away (for the most part ?) during the warmer summer months

bike often sits in an unheated garage where temps can often be below freezing during coldest part of winter

after rides through a lot of crap I will often will pull the pads and clean the inside of the caliper and surrounding area and check the back of the pads ... q tips work great for this

Last edited by t2p; 08-10-23 at 08:59 AM.
t2p is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Your Privacy Choices -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.