Hozan spoke threading tool
 

Wondering if anyone else who might be using the Hozan spoke threading tool can comment. I’ve had the tool for a while, and successfully made/threaded a few spokes, but hadn’t noticed how shallow the new threads are (and surprised they haven’t pulled out of the nipples). (Edited to add…purchased it new, used about a dozen times.) Making one yesterday (test on an old spoke), I noticed that the new threads didn’t seem to be nearly as deep as other pre-threaded spokes. So, the manual says (see attached photo): “When you cannot instert the nipple smoothly, turn the adjust nut clockwise to tighten.” AND “When the die head does not bite the spoke, Turn the adjust nut counterclockwise to loosen.” I understand that to mean if the threads need to be deeper to tighten, and/or TOO deep to loosen. Is that a misprint? When I did “tighten” (clockwise) the adjust nut, it seems to have loosened the rollers, and the resulting threads seemed even shallower. So, I did the opposite…loosened/counterclockwise the adjust nut, and the resultant threads on my test spoke were appropriately deep enough. — Dan


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3d586a633.jpeg

Since the thread is formed not cut, the height of the peaks means as much as the depths of the valley. The thread on a 2 mm spoke is nominally m2.3. but in real life if you can accurately measure with a micrometer, they will usually fall somewhere between 2.2 and 2.3.
I have a Hozan, but it has been dedicated to 13 gauge spokes for the last 10 years since I acquired a Morizumi to handle the 14 and 15 gauge. When I was using the Hozan more regularly, I was replacing the rolling heads every couple of years. Maybe yours is due.

I haven’t made/threaded very many spokes with it. Not even an entire wheel’s-worth.

Dan

Well in that case, you haven't even broken it in yet so certainly not worn out. I would say just keep playing with the adjustment until you get it right, and if you can get access to a micrometer, check to see how you are doing with the major diameter.

Please don't take offense, but why are you here?

You experimented and now KNOW how to adjust thread depth on the tool.

So, I don’t understand your problem. In any case, how can opinions over the internet trump proven success?

Oye! Because I made adjustments IAW the operators manual and it seemed to do the opposite of the intended result. So, I’m trying to ascertain whether the operators manual is a misprint, or if there is an issue with my device.

Dan

You have 4 options.
Option 3 is do nothing.
Option 4 is ask a committee.
OR
If option 1 doesn't work, try option 2.

Use Occam's Razor --- the simplest explanation is the best.

You successfully made adjustments and have it working. Maybe there was a mistranslation, or maybe you're misreading it, but why would you care since you're successful using the tool?

sounds like the rollers are worn.

did you buy the tool "used"?

if so, you have now discovered WHY it was sold.

and Threads are NEVER "full depth".. especially Rolled Threads.
A properly cut thread, made with a Cutting Die, is about 70% of "full depth"..
Rolled Threads are typically about 60% of "full depth"
these percentages fall off as thread diameters Decrease, and Increase as thread diameters increase.
the tips of threads look like a ragged mountain range under extreme magnification.
Stainless steel is particularly bad about rough machining... only the very highest nickel-added alloys resist tearing... they are EXPENSIVE.

personally, i wouldn't fret too much about those teeny tiny threads not having complete tips since those teeny tips can't carry a load anyway.

Signed: a former widget machinist.

And they call me cranky...

Op seems to be new at using this tool, so rightfully so he's trying to determine if either the tool or his expectations are off.

Like your meds. You may want to check with your doctor to see if they need to be bumped up a bit.

Look at the adjusting thread - you should be able to see that it's tapered, and hence which direction to turn it in order to tighten the rollers.

It's not about being cranky, it's about helping people gain confidence and trust their own instincts.

The OP figured it out, diagnosed his problem, adjusted the depth, and successfully cut threads.

Seriously, what could he hope to gain by coming here to get second guessed, or told that the tool is crap?

It's comparable to navigating yourself to the destination, then asking your mother in law if you went the right way.

FWIW, right/left and clockwise/counter clockwise are meaningless concepts unless you establish the point of view first. So as I said earlier, the OP likely is misinterpreting the instructions, but IT DOESN'T MATTER, because he's well past that.

Sometimes you can be at home doing something new, do it 100% right, and still don't know if that was really so. It doesn't hurt to chat about it with others that may have more experience.

I have one of these and a box of longer spokes I don't hesitate to cut down to size as needed. The truth is that the tool will never form threads as good as factory threads so to somebody comparing them it may look like the tool is not working good enough. All I can say is that so far they have worked just fine.

I have noticed that this forum usually expects a level of tolerance that I have found difficult to muster up a number of times and have been taken to task for it (somewhat intolerantly I might add). You may find that to be the case for yourself as well.
Just a thot

Maybe, but not a problem.

I'm like a Teflon coated armadillo, and don't let stuff bother me.

If you hear "Charango!" run, don't roll up into a ball...