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Rear derailleur confusion here

Old 09-21-23, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Kontact
Shimano never made tabs you need to remove or fish through.
They have indeed. Here's an NOS Alivio RD-MC11 from the same era, with the same "fish through" cinch plate style pictured in some of these STX derailleurs.


Last edited by hokiefyd; 09-21-23 at 02:19 PM.
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Old 09-21-23, 02:01 PM
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The Disraeligears website shows this configuration on the RD-MC11.

https://www.disraeligears.co.uk/site...uary_1994.html

It actually shows the same for the RD-MC30 variation of the STX.

https://www.disraeligears.co.uk/site...ews_-_stx.html

The RD-MC34 variation of the STX I have has the more conventional non-"fish through" plate. So it apparently depends on the specific variation.

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Old 09-21-23, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Kontact
The cable shouldn't be routed through the bent tab. That tab is to prevent the plate from turning, and should be rotated out of the cable path.
The Cable is Routed Correctly.. the clamping plate is Positioned Correctly.


Last edited by maddog34; 09-21-23 at 02:38 PM.
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Old 09-21-23, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by juntjoo
Okay I'm getting closer. I lubed RD a bit and adjusted the screws again. I can never tell which is which.
H = High = Harder cog to pedal (the small one)
L = Low = Left cog, nearest the frame.
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Old 09-21-23, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Vintage_Cyclist
H = High = Harder cog to pedal (the small one)
L = Low = Left cog, nearest the frame.
Are there any Hs or Ls stamped on this mech?
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Old 09-21-23, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by choddo
Are there any Hs or Ls stamped on this mech?
Should be on the back side of the body, next to the screws. Might not be immediately apparent to some.

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Old 09-21-23, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Kontact
How often am I ever wrong about this kind of thing?
Well, today at least once.
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Old 09-21-23, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by juntjoo
Okay I'm getting closer. I lubed RD a bit and adjusted the screws again. I can never tell which is which. Idk how anyone does unless they're doing this for a living. Anyway, got it moving. I guess it was seized.

But now my chain looks short lol. I did take a couple links off cuz at first it looked too long with the RD hanging too far back. I'll put the links back on and check again.

I'm not sure what you're saying about the bike stand

And even though you explained to me the purpose of the 3rd adjustment screw i don't understand. As long as it shifts and doesn't make noise I'm good
And the quick release lever is on the wrong side.
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Old 09-21-23, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by hokiefyd
I think the cable is routed correctly. Here are a few pictures of an STX on my Trek 750.





There really isn't another cable-and-clamp configuration that makes sense here.

For what it's worth, I have this shifting a 7-speed cassette with a Suntour 8-speed indexed thumb shifter and it shifts well.
I stand corrected. However, if you look at the OPs cable routing and these pictures, you'll note the the OPs plate has a big gap because the cable isn't following the guide slot but is bent up and around the bolt. This may be enough to cause a problem.

Additionally, STX was a 7 speed group in 1994. I have encountered Shimano derailleurs that had limited range and wouldn't run 8 speed, like the Light Action road derailleur. So that may be another source of trouble and explain the Low stop backed out - the derailleur is bottoming out.

And then there's the bent hanger. There is no way to bend a hanger to ever get more range - all angles shorten the throw.
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Old 09-21-23, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Vintage_Cyclist
Should be on the back side of the body, next to the screws. Might not be immediately apparent to some.

If the screws are not marked or if the markings are not readily apparent, shift to the smallest cog and make sure the cable has some slack or is disconnected. Turn one of the screws back and forth. If you see no movement of the DR, try the other screw. The screw that actuates DR movement is your high limit. It's more common to have to do this with the front DR because those are frequently not marked.
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Old 09-21-23, 06:59 PM
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How hard is it to remember that the high screw is for the high limit, and the low screw is for the low limit?
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Old 09-21-23, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by smd4
How hard is it to remember that the high screw is for the high limit, and the low screw is for the low limit?
I was thinking about that and was trying to convince myself Id had a mech where they were reversed. Maybe it was a FD.
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Old 09-21-23, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by choddo
I was thinking about that and was trying to convince myself Id had a mech where they were reversed. Maybe it was a FD.
There are several like that.
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Old 09-22-23, 04:54 AM
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Originally Posted by smd4
How hard is it to remember that the high screw is for the high limit, and the low screw is for the low limit?
I think some equate H or high with the "high chain position" (large sprocket) and L or low with the "low chain position" (small sprocket), which is usually backwards. In many cases, the H screw is even physically above the L screw on the derailleur, further reinforcing this potential confusion.
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Old 09-22-23, 05:01 AM
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Originally Posted by hokiefyd
I think some equate H or high with the "high chain position" (large sprocket) and L or low with the "low chain position" (small sprocket), which is usually backwards. In many cases, the H screw is even physically above the L screw on the derailleur, further reinforcing this potential confusion.
Yeah, thats a good point. We see that mistake here often. In which cases, marking with an H or L would still be meaningless.
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Old 09-24-23, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Kontact
I stand corrected.
Me too, but at least I covered my ass with "may be exceptions"😁
Originally Posted by Kontact
And then there's the bent hanger. There is no way to bend a hanger to ever get more range - all angles shorten the throw.
A derailleur-in-spokes event will open up the dropout for no good reason, when it doesn't have a sacrificial hanger.
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Old 09-24-23, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by hokiefyd
The plate with the tab will not clock 90 degrees to either direction. The cable is designed to be trapped between the tab and the cinch bolt shaft. I have a picture below of the serrations on the derailleur body (inboard of the cinch bolt), the serrations on the plate, parallel with and next to the tab, and an image showing how the plate won't turn 90 degrees and still clamp on the derailleur. If you look closely, the washer plate has a non-circular center hole, which actually matches the bolt with a non-circular shaft. The plate can be rotated 180 degrees on the bolt, but not 90 degrees.

juntjoo has this cable routed correctly.
<snipped photos> That's fairly conclusive evidence of what I wrote: "There may be exceptions". (I'll get my coat.)
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Old 09-24-23, 05:07 PM
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Well got it up and running. I made a detailed note on my phone what all the adjustment screws do for each derailleur. Rear works great and front DID up on the stand but riding not so much so but it's comfortable in the middle gear which is good enough for now. I got the wide seat and aerobars for longer rides. So all's good for now. Thanks for the tips guys
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Old 09-24-23, 05:27 PM
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Well I never expected to see a full-susser with tri-bars today so its a new horizon and I welcome it.
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Old 09-24-23, 05:35 PM
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I'm trying to figure out how the rear rack works with the suspension.
Something has to give somewhere, but where ?
And if something does give, then what's the point ?
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Old 09-24-23, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Paul_P
I'm trying to figure out how the rear rack works with the suspension.
It doesn't.
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Old 09-25-23, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by choddo
Well I never expected to see a full-susser with tri-bars today so its a new horizon and I welcome it.
What's a "susser"?
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Old 09-25-23, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Paul_P
I'm trying to figure out how the rear rack works with the suspension.
Something has to give somewhere, but where ?
And if something does give, then what's the point ?
The bolts in the support bars aren't tight
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Old 09-25-23, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by juntjoo
What's a "susser"?
full suspension
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Old 09-25-23, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by juntjoo
The bolts in the support bars aren't tight
So this bit is free to slide up & down?


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