Rear derailleur confusion here
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The Disraeligears website shows this configuration on the RD-MC11.
https://www.disraeligears.co.uk/site...uary_1994.html
It actually shows the same for the RD-MC30 variation of the STX.
https://www.disraeligears.co.uk/site...ews_-_stx.html
The RD-MC34 variation of the STX I have has the more conventional non-"fish through" plate. So it apparently depends on the specific variation.
https://www.disraeligears.co.uk/site...uary_1994.html
It actually shows the same for the RD-MC30 variation of the STX.
https://www.disraeligears.co.uk/site...ews_-_stx.html
The RD-MC34 variation of the STX I have has the more conventional non-"fish through" plate. So it apparently depends on the specific variation.
Last edited by hokiefyd; 09-21-23 at 02:09 PM.
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Okay I'm getting closer. I lubed RD a bit and adjusted the screws again. I can never tell which is which. Idk how anyone does unless they're doing this for a living. Anyway, got it moving. I guess it was seized.
But now my chain looks short lol. I did take a couple links off cuz at first it looked too long with the RD hanging too far back. I'll put the links back on and check again.
I'm not sure what you're saying about the bike stand

And even though you explained to me the purpose of the 3rd adjustment screw i don't understand. As long as it shifts and doesn't make noise I'm good
But now my chain looks short lol. I did take a couple links off cuz at first it looked too long with the RD hanging too far back. I'll put the links back on and check again.
I'm not sure what you're saying about the bike stand

And even though you explained to me the purpose of the 3rd adjustment screw i don't understand. As long as it shifts and doesn't make noise I'm good
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I think the cable is routed correctly. Here are a few pictures of an STX on my Trek 750.


There really isn't another cable-and-clamp configuration that makes sense here.
For what it's worth, I have this shifting a 7-speed cassette with a Suntour 8-speed indexed thumb shifter and it shifts well.


There really isn't another cable-and-clamp configuration that makes sense here.
For what it's worth, I have this shifting a 7-speed cassette with a Suntour 8-speed indexed thumb shifter and it shifts well.
Additionally, STX was a 7 speed group in 1994. I have encountered Shimano derailleurs that had limited range and wouldn't run 8 speed, like the Light Action road derailleur. So that may be another source of trouble and explain the Low stop backed out - the derailleur is bottoming out.
And then there's the bent hanger. There is no way to bend a hanger to ever get more range - all angles shorten the throw.
#60
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If the screws are not marked or if the markings are not readily apparent, shift to the smallest cog and make sure the cable has some slack or is disconnected. Turn one of the screws back and forth. If you see no movement of the DR, try the other screw. The screw that actuates DR movement is your high limit. It's more common to have to do this with the front DR because those are frequently not marked.
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How hard is it to remember that the high screw is for the high limit, and the low screw is for the low limit?
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I think some equate H or high with the "high chain position" (large sprocket) and L or low with the "low chain position" (small sprocket), which is usually backwards. In many cases, the H screw is even physically above the L screw on the derailleur, further reinforcing this potential confusion.
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I think some equate H or high with the "high chain position" (large sprocket) and L or low with the "low chain position" (small sprocket), which is usually backwards. In many cases, the H screw is even physically above the L screw on the derailleur, further reinforcing this potential confusion.
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Me too, but at least I covered my ass with "may be exceptions"😁
A derailleur-in-spokes event will open up the dropout for no good reason, when it doesn't have a sacrificial hanger.
A derailleur-in-spokes event will open up the dropout for no good reason, when it doesn't have a sacrificial hanger.
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The plate with the tab will not clock 90 degrees to either direction. The cable is designed to be trapped between the tab and the cinch bolt shaft. I have a picture below of the serrations on the derailleur body (inboard of the cinch bolt), the serrations on the plate, parallel with and next to the tab, and an image showing how the plate won't turn 90 degrees and still clamp on the derailleur. If you look closely, the washer plate has a non-circular center hole, which actually matches the bolt with a non-circular shaft. The plate can be rotated 180 degrees on the bolt, but not 90 degrees.
juntjoo has this cable routed correctly.
juntjoo has this cable routed correctly.
#68
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Well got it up and running. I made a detailed note on my phone what all the adjustment screws do for each derailleur. Rear works great and front DID up on the stand but riding not so much so but it's comfortable in the middle gear which is good enough for now. I got the wide seat and aerobars for longer rides. So all's good for now. Thanks for the tips guys

#70
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I'm trying to figure out how the rear rack works with the suspension.
Something has to give somewhere, but where ?
And if something does give, then what's the point ?
Something has to give somewhere, but where ?
And if something does give, then what's the point ?
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