Hex key skewer made by BBB siezed after using blue threadlock
 

Anyone else had their skewer bolts siezed when using blue threadlock? It was a cheap threadlock from Amazon branded as "Simply". Everyone else in rewievs complained about it being too weak but mine turned out to be too strong. Can't find any information about prohibition of blue threadlock on long M5 threads resulting in higher surface area which increases adhesion.
The front hex key skewer was easier to remove which resulted only in slightly bent skewer bolt.
The rear one resulted in worn out hex bolt.
Hammering in some torx bits didn't help either. Hopefully the bearings didn't get damaged since I used a rubber mallet.
Drilling it out didn't help much only somehow loosened it allowing the rear wheel to be taken out. Hopefully the metal shavings didn't find their way near the bearings since I covered everything partially with wet paper towel and used isopropyl alcohol ass a cutting fluid.
Only after heating the aluminium skewer nut up to 350°C it started to move.
Will use Shimano internal cam skewers only from now on.

I'm not familiar with any possible reason to loctite any part of a skewer. Enlighten me, please.

There have been reports about qr skewers coming loose. Somebody on r/bikewrench said that it's advisable to use threadlock on any bolt near disc brakes due to vibration.

Any skewer tightened correctly to prevent the wheel coming out does not need threadlocker, it needs grease.

Screws holding the calipers? I could see that.

This seems more like a cautionary tale about using unknown, unbranded anaerobic adhesives.

chinese made hex key skewer + harbor freight allen key + amazon "best cheep" thread locker

can't imagine what the problem might be

/markp

If you want to use threadlocker in the future, go with purple.

Threadlockers typically use superglue formulation so they can be softened with acetone. You need to wait for the acetone to penetrate the thread. Of course, you need to worry about any damage to the paint or rubber. It is best to have the bike oriented so the thread you work on is at the bottom.

I just thought bigger bottle might be cheaper for frequent use. Couldn't make up my mind which one to get since none of the offers were convenient enough.

Typically everyone says blue one is good enough for everything since purple might be too weak for critical applications.

BBB parts are said to be made in Taiwan where most of the cycling industry is located.

Purple would be fine on a skewer. It takes a bit longer to set but it would be fine.

I have never needed a thread locker on anything on any of my bikes. And I don't recommend believing everything, or hardly anything for that matter you read where /r is involved. But then again, I'm new to biking only recently starting about 55 years ago so I may be wrong.

Same here, but pretty much every stem I have come with bolts that have a bit of blue compound applied to the threads at the opposite end from the heads.

IMO this is part of a circular or spiral process. Threads don't necessarily need adhesives. Later on some people start using them. Over time, since it's hard to argue negatives, more people start. When enough start using them, wevreach a tipping point, so OEMs will pre-apply as a CYA, lest they are forced to justify not doing so, if sued.

Eventually, threadlockers become the norm, and designers feel emboldened to drift from traditional best practices, thereby making them necessary.

Typically any brake set that comes with bolts has threadlocker applied to the threads. I had a cassette that kept falling apart, no matter how tight I got the retaining ring, so I put blue threadlocker on it and it's held ever since.

something you didn't mention... Blue "threadlocker" also works to prevent corrosive bonding.... kinda like anti-seize....

and you would Not like Kart Racing... they REQUIRE Safety wires on some bolts in very silly places... i had to drill wire holes in hardened allen bolts at 3 in the morning before one race.... for... "safety"....... :twitchy:

One exception as per a thread (pun intended) in this very forum. Trek 2019 Madone isospeed seatpost bolt.

From a former kart racer:
Drilled Bolts - Northwest Fastener & Supply, Inc.
You're welcome.

A possibility is that the no-name TL is blue but may not be the same strength as the blue from big companies that make quality products and who knows what the chemical composition is?? Note that TL's usually have an expiration date after opening which can be found on the websites from most companies so large quantities may be false economy if not used up in time.

Skewer's didn't loosen because the nut loosened. They just weren't tightened properly because of the way the cam lever worked. Some designs were more prone to the users not getting it right. Some cam levers were just bad designs all together. Some skewer's just have defective users that will never get it right.

I think the long thread engagement combined with long and twisty skewer bolts made the peak torque too weak to brake the bond sufficiently. On other bolts it worked without apparent problems.
Decided to go for bigger volume since you never know how much you will need it in the future.
Others said it was too runny but mine turned out to be thick and viscous.

Next time, use much less of the thread locking compound. In general, much less is needed than novices think is needed.

WHY is anyone treating threadlocker on a skewer as reasonable?

It's a ridiculous idea.

Because Loctite has become the ketchup of the bike world.