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45mm chainline crank suggestions

Old 11-09-23, 10:47 AM
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45mm chainline crank suggestions

need a triple crankset for a mid 90s hybrid (Norco Monterey), 7 speed with 45mm chainline. I prefer it be a silver color, trying to keep it looking coordinated. 42, 34, 24 tooth is what was originally on the bike. 128mm bottom bracket was used.

The crank they had installed was a bit of an anomaly as far as I can tell. Like an old STX mountain triple, but with a typical road triple chainline.

I was originally going to find an old MTB tripleÖ Acera, Alivio, STX, etc. They would look appropriate as a replacement, the issue Im having is that based on Sheldon Browns bottom bracket database, chainline acquired from specific BB lengths leads me to believe I canít adjust the spindle length to get the 45mm I need. They were all made for 47.5 or 50Ö maybe 103mm BB would work, but that seems extremely short and it makes me think something wonít work right.

Mountain triples and road triples are constructed very differently as far as the positioning of the chainrings go. The smallest ring hangs over past the taper insertion point on the road triples it seems, while the MTB ones are more flush.

Basically looking for a road triple crankset that can accommodate 42, 34, 24 (or very near there) in silver color that is budget friendly. Appears to be a needle in a haystack and Iím at my wits end.
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Old 11-09-23, 01:41 PM
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First off, Sheldon's listing for 47.5-50 chainline and 110 (110.5) -113 BB generally means 47.5 with the shorter BB.

The difference between 45 and 47.5 is 1/2 the width of the sprocket spacing for 7 speed cassettes. So, if the 45 chainline give you perfect alignment, the 47.5 will be 1/2 the width of the 'spacing' between the sprockets further outwards. A very minor difference. Unless you spend much of your riding in the innermost sprocket in the rear, it won't be noticeable.

If the 45 chainline is already too far out, then moving to a 47.5 may possibly make a little difference.

On a bike with a longer chainstay, the chain length will have enough room to 'flex' to run OK.
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Old 11-09-23, 01:42 PM
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i swap in/out dozens of bottom brackets while building bikes... they can and do alter chainlines... they also come in a wide variety of lengths....

the CRANK set you buy Determines the Length of Bottom Bracket you will need.
there are three basic square taper mount triple Crank offsets... inny, outy, and flatty(as seen from above when comparing inner taper face to the small ring)
the length of BB you state tells me the crank you just removed is an inny.

I advise that you seek help at a Co-Op to figure out which crankset to buy... they will have a selection to choose from. Get one with decent life left in the middle ring, and that the rings can be REPLACED in the future..

your bike's age is irrelevant, but it's most likely a mid 2000's or so.
here's a Hybrid Norco.. does it look like this? https://www.norco.com/bike-archives/2010/monterey/
and rumor has it that "Norco" is actually Nisiki, with different decals... Nisiki is a great brand, IMO.

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Old 11-09-23, 04:27 PM
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Pretty sure it’s from the mid 90s…




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Old 11-09-23, 04:29 PM
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I agree that 2.5mm is negligible, but I’d prefer to keep the chainline correct if at all possible.
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Old 11-09-23, 04:41 PM
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yep, that's the older road model.. looks like someone has Converted it to flat bar.

How did you measure that 45mm chainline?

BB lengths come in about 3mm steps... since you are leaning towards an MTB crankset, buy the crank you want then test fit it on the existing BB... work from that info.
** cranksets move inward about 1/4" when tightened onto the tapers.
my "minimum clearance" at the chainring/chainstay closest point is 1/4", tightened in place...... same for crank arm/chainstay clearance.**

and treat that nice bike to a set of real pedals....

Last edited by maddog34; 11-09-23 at 04:51 PM.
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Old 11-09-23, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by maddog34
yep, that's the older road model.. looks like someone has Converted it to flat bar.

How did you measure that 45mm chainline?

BB lengths come in about 3mm steps... since you are leaning towards an MTB crankset, buy the crank you want then test fit it on the existing BB... work from that info.
** cranksets move inward about 1/4" when tightened onto the tapers.
my "minimum clearance" at the chainring/chainstay closest point is 1/4", tightened in place...... same for crank arm/chainstay clearance.**

and treat that nice bike to a set of real pedals....
I measured the chainline using the rear spacing which was 135mm, the distance from the nut on the drive side to the center of the center cog on the 7 speed cassette which was 22.5mm. I divided 135mm in half… 67.5mm, then subtracted 22.5 from 67.5… 45mm.

I have a 118mm bottom bracket to test things out on. The existing crankset and BB from the bike originally got sent to the local bike co op… they were horrible quality. I think the crank was CPI and the BB some chinese sealed cartridge garbage, felt like it had rocks in the place of bearings when turning it.

Going to roll with some Raceface Chesters and ditch those super cheap pedals.

Last edited by boneshaker78; 11-09-23 at 05:02 PM.
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Old 11-09-23, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by boneshaker78
I measured the chainline using the rear spacing which was 135mm, the distance from the nut on the drive side to the center of the center cog on the 7 speed cassette which was 22.5mm. I divided 135mm in half… 67.5mm, then subtracted 22.5 from 67.5… 45mm.

I have a 118mm bottom bracket to test things out on. The existing crankset and BB from the bike originally got sent to the local bike co op… they were horrible quality. I think the crank was CPI and the BB some chinese sealed cartridge garbage, felt like it had rocks in the place of bearings when turning it.

Going to roll with some Raceface Chesters and ditch those super cheap pedals.
cool... just remember.. if you err at all, err to the outside of the cassette's calculated chainline...
most new cranks now specify the factory recommended chainline, and also a "Q-factor"... that is the distance between the inner sides of the crank ends at the pedal location.
Road Cranks are too narrow at the Q to be fitted to an MTB frame... your bike frame is somewhere in between... 700c wheels, right? if so, that's a plus in the Q-Factor department.

the crankset you removed was a 42-32-22-ish one, and you're getting similar again, right?
things should go well. the STX is a fave of mine... it is a "flatty", and usually takes a 118 BB.
Being that the Monterey is now a Hybrid bike, but was (most likely) a Road bike originally,.... Have you determined if you need a 68mm or 73mm BB shell yet? Just measure the Frame's BB width with no BB installed.

and thanks for ditching the plastic pedals...those things are a scourge on bicycling..

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Old 11-09-23, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by maddog34
cool... just remember.. if you err at all, err to the outside of the cassette's calculated chainline...
most new cranks now specify the factory recommended chainline, and also a "Q-factor"... that is the distance between the inner sides of the crank ends at the pedal location.
Road Cranks are too narrow at the Q to be fitted to an MTB frame... your bike frame is somewhere in between... 700c wheels, right? if so, that's a plus in the Q-Factor department.

the crankset you removed was a 42-32-22-ish one, and you're getting similar again, right?
things should go well. the STX is a fave of mine... it is a "flatty", and usually takes a 118 BB.
Being that the Monterey is now a Hybrid bike, but was (most likely) a Road bike originally,.... Have you determined if you need a 68mm or 73mm BB shell yet? Just measure the Frame's BB width with no BB installed.

and thanks for ditching the plastic pedals...those things are a scourge on bicycling..
Yes, 700 wheels. BB shell is 68mm.
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Old 11-09-23, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by maddog34
cool... just remember.. if you err at all, err to the outside of the cassette's calculated chainline...
most new cranks now specify the factory recommended chainline, and also a "Q-factor"... that is the distance between the inner sides of the crank ends at the pedal location.
Road Cranks are too narrow at the Q to be fitted to an MTB frame... your bike frame is somewhere in between... 700c wheels, right? if so, that's a plus in the Q-Factor department.

the crankset you removed was a 42-32-22-ish one, and you're getting similar again, right?
things should go well. the STX is a fave of mine... it is a "flatty", and usually takes a 118 BB.
Being that the Monterey is now a Hybrid bike, but was (most likely) a Road bike originally,.... Have you determined if you need a 68mm or 73mm BB shell yet? Just measure the Frame's BB width with no BB installed.

and thanks for ditching the plastic pedals...those things are a scourge on bicycling..

Q factor is usually considered to be the 'outside' of the crank arm, where the pedal bottoms out on the crank arm.



The Shimano STX info on Sheldon's site seem be accurate, at least the FC-MC3? cranks, (the nicer ones), haven't bothered with looking at the FC-MC1? (cheaper versions). The MC3? versions use the 110 or 113 at 47.5/50 chainline as OP stated in his original post.

Last edited by KCT1986; 11-09-23 at 09:41 PM. Reason: correction for 113 BB with 50 CL
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Old 11-09-23, 10:00 PM
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so Q is more of an Ergo-spec than clearance... ok.
i'm more of a "slip it on and see if it fits" kind of mechanic, i guess.

and the Q-factor is not really a thing with older cranksets, since the BB spindles can vary the Q.. right?
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Old 11-09-23, 10:16 PM
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boneshaker78 why don't you try this XTR triple that I have on offer ? maybe the best square taper crank ever made.

FS XTR M-900 Shimano crankset Xlnt Cond ! - Bike Forums

/markp
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Old 11-09-23, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by mpetry912
boneshaker78 why don't you try this XTR triple that I have on offer ? maybe the best square taper crank ever made.

FS XTR M-900 Shimano crankset Xlnt Cond ! - Bike Forums

/markp
Beautiful crankset. My budget for a crank is about 60-80 for this build. Thanks for bringing it to my attention though.
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Old 11-10-23, 12:05 AM
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Found this Shimano Altus A10 on ebay. Can’t find this crankset on Sheldon’s BB database to determine chainline, but it looks really promising based on the positioning of the smallest chainring. Pretty nice for NOS at $50. It’s strange that the seller put in the Item Specifics crankset without chainrings, makes no mention of it otherwise in the description. Doesn’t make sense that he wouldn’t sell this with the chainrings.

What do you guys think?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/27599525085...Bk9SR-T55fz2Yg


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Old 11-10-23, 01:01 AM
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Bought it. I hope it works out. 😬
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Old 11-10-23, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by boneshaker78
Bought it. I hope it works out. 😬
Guess that you'll have to fit on your 118 BB and determine how much of an adjustment is needed. Attached is diagram with specs for a Tange cartridge, Shimano BB are reasonably close to the same per length (+/-.5mm in most cases). Note that L/R are not always symmetrical.




Not sure what spindle, and resulting chainline was on the AT10 originally. Hard to find info on some older parts, especially lower spec models.
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Old 11-10-23, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by KCT1986
Guess that you'll have to fit on your 118 BB and determine how much of an adjustment is needed. Attached is diagram with specs for a Tange cartridge, Shimano BB are reasonably close to the same per length (+/-.5mm in most cases). Note that L/R are not always symmetrical.




Not sure what spindle, and resulting chainline was on the AT10 originally. Hard to find info on some older parts, especially lower spec models.
That was my plan. Thank you for your assistance.
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Old 11-10-23, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by maddog34
so Q is more of an Ergo-spec than clearance... ok.
i'm more of a "slip it on and see if it fits" kind of mechanic, i guess.

and the Q-factor is not really a thing with older cranksets, since the BB spindles can vary the Q.. right?
Q factor is important to some people, for body parts alignment preferences and in some cases to try to match the feel of multiple bikes.

Having an idea of what you will 'get' when matching cranks & BB spindles can save you time and bother if you have some estimate of the chainline & chainstay clearance beforehand.
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Old 11-10-23, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by boneshaker78
Bought it. I hope it works out. 😬
i think you'll be needing a longer chain. 46-36-26
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Old 11-10-23, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by maddog34
i think you'll be needing a longer chain. 46-36-26
Yep… part of the plan. Thank you for the help.

I like the idea of the bigger rings, pretty flat where I am.
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Old 11-17-23, 08:57 AM
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I received the A10 crankset yesterday. Thankfully it arrived in NOS condition with the chainrings like I hoped for. Unfortunately, the chainrings aren’t in the position in relation to the square taper face at the rear of the crank like I hoped. They are more or less flush with each other like many other MTB cranksets of the era.

I checked the chainline with the 118mm bottom bracket, without it press fitted on, I got 67mm chainline. 67 minus 14.4 (half the 28.8mm from the seat tube) leaves me with 52.6. I’m guessing the crankset will move about 3mm with crank bolts torqued to spec, giving me a chainline very close to 50mm, which would make sense to me based on the trends seen when consulting the database for bottom bracket lengths for MTB cranksets.

Based on all of that, I’m guessing a 107mm bottom bracket could possibly work to give me a 45mm chainline, should move the chainline by 5.5mm getting me closer to 45mm and I could possibly space out the bottom bracket on the drive side to get it closer. However, I don’t necessarily like the idea of the bottom bracket being that short and possibly causing interference issues.

My idea, considering the rear wheel is being rebuilt anyway, would be to change the spacing on the drive side, shift the rear cassette and dish the wheel to give me a 47.5mm chainline. Purchase a 113mm bottom bracket to get a 47.5mm chainline and readjust derailleurs as necessary. This way I’m compromising some to give the crankset a bit more room and there is at least 4mm of space between the chain on the cassette and the rear dropout as it is now. I should have roughly 1.5 to 2mm of space left between the chain and rear dropout once I change the spacing and dish the wheel, which seems adequate enough to me.
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Old 11-17-23, 11:12 AM
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This is the clearance I have after shifting the axle over to establish a 47.5mm chainline. I have about 1mm left, the chain is very close to the dropout.

Is it enough space?

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Old 11-17-23, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by boneshaker78
I received the A10 crankset yesterday. Thankfully it arrived in NOS condition with the chainrings like I hoped for. Unfortunately, the chainrings arenít in the position in relation to the square taper face at the rear of the crank like I hoped. They are more or less flush with each other like many other MTB cranksets of the era.

I checked the chainline with the 118mm bottom bracket, without it press fitted on, I got 67mm chainline. 67 minus 14.4 (half the 28.8mm from the seat tube) leaves me with 52.6. Iím guessing the crankset will move about 3mm with crank bolts torqued to spec, giving me a chainline very close to 50mm, which would make sense to me based on the trends seen when consulting the database for bottom bracket lengths for MTB cranksets.

Based on all of that, Iím guessing a 107mm bottom bracket could possibly work to give me a 45mm chainline, should move the chainline by 5.5mm getting me closer to 45mm and I could possibly space out the bottom bracket on the drive side to get it closer. However, I donít necessarily like the idea of the bottom bracket being that short and possibly causing interference issues.

My idea, considering the rear wheel is being rebuilt anyway, would be to change the spacing on the drive side, shift the rear cassette and dish the wheel to give me a 47.5mm chainline. Purchase a 113mm bottom bracket to get a 47.5mm chainline and readjust derailleurs as necessary. This way Iím compromising some to give the crankset a bit more room and there is at least 4mm of space between the chain on the cassette and the rear dropout as it is now. I should have roughly 1.5 to 2mm of space left between the chain and rear dropout once I change the spacing and dish the wheel, which seems adequate enough to me.
You should fully fit the crank on the spindle and get a really accurate measurement on the 118 to calculate from. And as noted on my post with the BB chart, the BBs are not all symmetrical. Using 1/2 of the change in length is not always accurate.

Making a change to the position of the freehub body/cassette may be a possibility. Depending on the hub, it may or may not be quite simple. If the hub uses multiple thin spacers between the cone and the locknut, it may be easy to move a spacer from the DS to the NDS. Moving the freehub body closer to the dropout also helps to increase the strength of the wheel since the tension imbalance of the will be better.
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Old 11-17-23, 11:36 AM
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Does anyone know the difference between the 110mm and 107mm bottom brackets? I’ve seen a few sources claiming that the drive side of the spindle is essentially the same, maybe 0.5mm longer on the 110. Are the spindle lengths on the left and right side the same on both? Wondering if I were to take a chance on one of those sizes… which would be better?
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Old 11-17-23, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by boneshaker78
This is the clearance I have after shifting the axle over to establish a 47.5mm chainline. I have about 1mm left, the chain is very close to the dropout.

Is it enough space?
You posted while I was typing.

It is close but should be OK. You need to check in all rotations of the sprocket since usually the teeth are profiled left/right to aid shifting. Also check while shifting to/from the sprocket as chain will move a little on the teeth as the chain is pushed.
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