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Is this just a dust cap or does it have to be very tight?

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Is this just a dust cap or does it have to be very tight?

Old 11-21-23, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Kontact
If you wanted to use some sort of extractor, you'd remove both the extractor cap and the bolt, just like on a traditional crank.
ah ok. The hollow centre of the spindle isnít a problem?
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Old 11-21-23, 08:22 AM
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Before worrying about using the correct crank puller (as there are basically two different sizes for different spindles), try using the self-extractor already in place and if no luck, report back here. Park sells a puller that has both sizes to cover most BB types if needed. CWP-7 Compact Crank Puller | Park Tool
Park also has instructions for using self-extractors Crank Removal and Installation: Self-Extracting | Park Tool

Last edited by Crankycrank; 11-21-23 at 08:28 AM.
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Old 11-21-23, 08:30 AM
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I am not the OP, just sticking my nose in as I also have a GXP crank. That explains a lot. My current crank puller does not have that wider section for the splined spindles. But the 8mm bolt has worked fine for me so far.
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Old 11-21-23, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by choddo
My current crank puller does not have that wider section for the splined spindles. But the 8mm bolt has worked fine for me so far.
You can just use a strong washer between the puller and spindle to provide a wider surface for a too-small puller head.
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Old 11-21-23, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by choddo
ah ok. The hollow centre of the spindle isnít a problem?
You would need the right tool.

But it is a self extracting crank, so why do that?
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Old 11-21-23, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Kontact
You would need the right tool.

But it is a self extracting crank, so why do that?
wasnít my suggestion :-)

crankycrank said
If the cap starts to show any signs of flexing or distorting, remove the cap and use a proper crank extractor tool.
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Old 11-21-23, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by choddo
wasnít my suggestion :-)

crankycrank said
Crankycrank is assuming such a tool exists. If it does, you would remove the crank bolt, like you do on any crank to be extracted.

If it doesn't exist, you use the built in tool - like everyone everywhere normally does (but we like to pretend otherwise on BF).
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Old 11-22-23, 01:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Kontact
Crankycrank is assuming such a tool exists. If it does, you would remove the crank bolt, like you do on any crank to be extracted.

If it doesn't exist, you use the built in tool - like everyone everywhere normally does (but we like to pretend otherwise on BF).
SoooÖ (Iím tryng to learn here) Ö if a tool exists, and it looks like it does from his post of the Park Tool one, why would I buy that and not just still use the self extracting bolt?
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Old 11-22-23, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by choddo
SoooÖ (Iím tryng to learn here) Ö if a tool exists, and it looks like it does from his post of the Park Tool one, why would I buy that and not just still use the self extracting bolt?
Well, crankycrank said to use a separate tool if the built-in one looks like it is distorting. Which is not bad advice, except that this particular extractor is beefier than the square taper ones it replaced, and the spline doesn't generally require as much torque to extract. So it is very unlikely to distort.

So I would not bother buying such a tool because I think the built in extractor is unlikely to fail, and removing the cap is going to be another thing that can get messed up. But GXP does use the same M22 crank threads and M15 crank bolt that Octalink and Isis use, so the oversize extractor for those should work fine.

However, larger spindle systems like DUB or BB30 are built just like GXP, but are much larger than M22. They have no Park remover tool and rely entirely on their built-ins for extraction. At the shop we used that extractor for every tune up. Same with GXP and most other self-extractors.

Personally, if the self extractor is the thin sheet metal type on square taper, and the extraction torque seems excessive, that's when I would use a separate tool. Otherwise, the built-in.
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Old 11-23-23, 10:23 AM
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I took my cranks apart too, to investigate.
(my other Bike Friday Tikit has standard square taper BB and crank arms and so I could not use it to compare Factory Setup)

I found nothing washer wise on the DS.
but there is a thin plastic cover on the NDS that goes over the bearing face before the arm goes on (and is critical as without it everything binds and locks up)
then I found a small washer which seems to go on the 8mm bolt (see photo)

and that was it. then the outer 10mm extractor bolt

I tightened the inner 8mm bolt as best I could. we'll see now if it holds.


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Old 11-23-23, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by pstock
I took my cranks apart too, to investigate.
(my other Bike Friday Tikit has standard square taper BB and crank arms and so I could not use it to compare Factory Setup)

I found nothing washer wise on the DS.
but there is a thin plastic cover on the NDS that goes over the bearing face before the arm goes on (and is critical as without it everything binds and locks up)
then I found a small washer which seems to go on the 8mm bolt (see photo)

and that was it. then the outer 10mm extractor bolt

I tightened the inner 8mm bolt as best I could. we'll see now if it holds.
How did the splines on the inside of the NDS arm look?
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Old 11-23-23, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by pstock
I tightened the inner 8mm bolt as best I could. we'll see now if it holds.
If you tightened it with an L-wrench then it would be a little difficult to apply enough torque on that. Probably needs 35+ ft/lbs of torque. If you don't have a feel for what torque is needed, try to borrow a torque wrench from someone and use that. If you plan on doing more bike work in the future a torque wrench can be a good investment.

Last edited by Crankycrank; 11-23-23 at 02:59 PM.
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Old 11-23-23, 04:56 PM
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I have a torque set for bikes but i dont think it has a head as large as 8mm.
And i don't think it is designed to do high torques (i think i read that this needs lile 45Nm?)
I've only used my torque set on small bolts - like stems and seatposts .

So i might need anither more heavy duty torque wrench.
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Old 11-23-23, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by pstock
I have a torque set for bikes but i dont think it has a head as large as 8mm.
And i don't think it is designed to do high torques (i think i read that this needs lile 45Nm?)
I've only used my torque set on small bolts - like stems and seatposts .

So i might need anither more heavy duty torque wrench.
Don't worry about getting it too tight. Put a long handle on whatever you've got in 8mm and turn it against the resistance of the crank arm to about 80% of as tight as you can possibly get it. Really damn tight for a bolt on a bike.
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Old 11-24-23, 01:52 AM
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Yeah 35 lb-ft is about 45Nm and correct. Itís seriously tight. I bought a heavy duty torque wrench just for this and honestly canít even get it tighter than about 38Nm. Itís never come loose at that.

See I said there was something on the NDS that kept the crank from contacting the outer bearing race
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Old 11-26-23, 03:55 PM
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Do a search on "GXP crank bolt" and you will see that there are several configurations, most of which indeed includes a spacer/washer. I can't recall from the top of my head whether the washer goes in first or if it goes between the two bolts.
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Old 11-26-23, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Kontact
Don't worry about getting it too tight. Put a long handle on whatever you've got in 8mm and turn it against the resistance of the crank arm to about 80% of as tight as you can possibly get it. Really damn tight for a bolt on a bike.
I have the 8 mm Allen key from the impact driver and the two foot breaker bar. I think the proper procedure is to tighten it until it strips then back it off half a turn and let someone else finish the job.
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Old 11-26-23, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by grumpus
I have the 8 mm Allen key from the impact driver and the two foot breaker bar. I think the proper procedure is to tighten it until it strips then back it off half a turn and let someone else finish the job.
A 2 foot breaker bar isn't going to do anything extra when you using with a 7" crank.
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Old 11-27-23, 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Kontact
A 2 foot breaker bar isn't going to do anything extra when you using with a 7" crank.
Strap it to the chainstay.
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Old 12-06-23, 09:57 AM
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It was holding okay for a few days but now it just loosens off after 5minutes of riding.

Though i currently only have an 8mm allen key in a short handled multitool so i am not getting a lot of leverage to tighten it up massively.

I think i mightnhave to replace either the cranks or the BB (Which would likely be worn? Both?)
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Old 12-06-23, 12:33 PM
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I would try a torque wrench that can hit 40Nm first
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Old 12-06-23, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by pstock
It was holding okay for a few days but now it just loosens off after 5minutes of riding.

Though i currently only have an 8mm allen key in a short handled multitool so i am not getting a lot of leverage to tighten it up massively.

I think i mightnhave to replace either the cranks or the BB (Which would likely be worn? Both?)
You were told how tight you were going to have to get it, yet you used a multi tool. It's like you wanted it to fail.
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Old 12-06-23, 06:33 PM
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I will put the bike aside until i have the correct tools.
It though is my main transportation and so i was just trying to keep it on the road.
Thank you for your help
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Old 12-06-23, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by pstock
I will put the bike aside until i have the correct tools.
It though is my main transportation and so i was just trying to keep it on the road.
Thank you for your help
You need a 50 cent allen wrench and a foot of pipe.
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Old 12-07-23, 09:57 AM
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It was actually $1.50 (stuff is more expensive up here in Canada).

I'll see how this holds up Now


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