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New wheel, old steel bike. Powerful stroke sends wheel into left chainstay

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New wheel, old steel bike. Powerful stroke sends wheel into left chainstay

Old 02-09-24, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 79pmooney

.......And yes, FB is right. External cams can be mechanically just as good. But I doubt I have ever laid eyes on such a pair.
The old Simplex comes to mind. Interestingly when I tried to find an image I found these.

Note the dentated steel faces. Walmart (of all places) had a similar ones for $9.75pr

I guess if you spend for good stuff you get junk, go cheap for quality.
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Old 02-13-24, 07:39 PM
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OK, finally back to answer some questions. Sorry for the late response. Work, life, wife, etc.
Someone asked about it still being 126mm. I cold spaced the dropouts using RJ The Bike Guy's method. It comes in right at 130mm now.
I've uploaded two pictures. One of the dropout, one of the skewer end, mainly the side that does move. I can definitely see now, the skewer end has no real gripping mechanism. Smooth as can be. Of course it would allow the wheel to slide to the left.
amilo posted a picture of what I should be looking for. Skewers with teeth. Anyone got a good link to buy one?

Dropout

Small skewer end
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Old 02-13-24, 07:59 PM
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How about the lever end?
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Old 02-13-24, 10:29 PM
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OK You're holding half your problem in your hand. Note the smooth face, or the shallow dull teeth ( not sure which from the photo). Note also the lack of serious bite marks on the dropout. If you search imaged of vintage bikes, you'll see dropout faces badly chewed up.

As I said, that's only half. The other half is your hubs axle, which seems to be aluminum. The axle itself doesn't matter, but note the smooth aluminum faces, which are trying to gum your frame because they lack the teeth.

So, new vintage skewer. I also recommend treating the axle. I keep a bottle of nail polish into which added some sand. I clean the axle with acetone, then apply the sand paint and let dry.

The reason for treating is that there's play between the axle and skewer, which will allow the axle to creak under load.

Getting bite from both axle and skewer may be "belt and suspenders", but may be absolutely necessary if you climb steep hills.
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Old 02-14-24, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
OK You're holding half your problem in your hand. Note the smooth face, or the shallow dull teeth ( not sure which from the photo). Note also the lack of serious bite marks on the dropout. If you search imaged of vintage bikes, you'll see dropout faces badly chewed up.
I took a look at skewers on Amazon, and I wanted to keep that vintage look. So I found some 130-135mm trainer skewers, which did have the teeth missing from my current skewer.
Link here, if allowed to post
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I am hoping this does the trick.
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Old 02-14-24, 02:04 PM
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Those should solve it, (assuming the length is right).

If you want to keep the look, try the sandy nail polish hack. depending on your circumstances it should be about free. I made mine with "the wrong shade" and some grit media.
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Old 02-18-24, 05:26 AM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
Those should solve it, (assuming the length is right).

If you want to keep the look, try the sandy nail polish hack. depending on your circumstances it should be about free. I made mine with "the wrong shade" and some grit media.
Just got the skewer yesterday and installed it. It looks perfect with my Pacenti Brevet wheels. As soon as the ice clears and provided my dirt road doesn't melt into a mud quagmire for week, I'll be testing this on some of the local small hills. Hopefully the wheel stays.
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Old 02-18-24, 10:39 AM
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I can see the new trend now ------ Quagmire bikes.
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Old 02-18-24, 01:40 PM
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RJ's video shows using dropout alignment tools. Did you do that as well as spreading the dropouts?

Do the outer locknuts/endcaps on the hub have any grip? From the photo it doesn't look like it.
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Old 02-21-24, 12:49 AM
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Originally Posted by friday1970
I took a look at skewers on Amazon, and I wanted to keep that vintage look. So I found some 130-135mm trainer skewers, which did have the teeth missing from my current skewer.
Link here, if allowed to post
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I am hoping this does the trick.
Looks good. Internal cam, all metal, grooves. I wonder why it's labeled as for trainers? Perhaps as skewer is subjected to greater bending loads on ends, versus regular riding? Or perhaps hardened exterior on ends? Looks the same as all the other good skewers I've seen.

Lube the cam (inside) with grease or anti-seize, without getting any lube on the clamping faces. Lubing the cam will allow you to get a tighter squeeze.
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Old 02-21-24, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Duragrouch
Looks good. Internal cam, all metal, grooves. I wonder why it's labeled as for trainers?
Maybe because of the all-steel construction?
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Old 02-21-24, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by smd4
Maybe because of the all-steel construction?
Nothing to do with the skewer per se. It's simply that it's a replacement for folks who don't to mar their pricey original skewers

Also note that some trainers don't properly fit over certain external cams skewers.
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Old 02-21-24, 06:59 PM
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I got a skewer with my trainer (languishing as it is). It's just a cheaper, less refined version of the other internal cam skewers I have, as far as I can tell.

Like someone said, I think it's provided (a) because I'm not sure that the very common external cam skewer would work with the trainer and (b) if one has a nice looking internal cam skewer, it might get marred up by mounting on the trainer. That's what I always thought anyway. But, I have used that "trainer" skewer as a replacement for one on the bike. Works just the same, only problem is that it's ugly.

But really, has anyone, ever, actually noticed a skewer and thought: ooohhh my oh my, that's one fiiiiinnne skewer! I'm flustered! or Gaak, that's butt u-u-u-ugly, I can't bear to look at it!

Last edited by Camilo; 02-24-24 at 03:22 PM.
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Old 02-21-24, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Camilo
But really, has anyone, ever, actually noticed a skewer and thought: ooohhh my oh my, that's one fiiiiinnne skewer! I'm flustered! or Gaak, that's butt u-u-u-ugly, I can't bear to look at it!
You haven’t?
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Old 02-21-24, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by smd4
You haven’t?
Some things are private.
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Old 02-23-24, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by andrewclaus
RJ's video shows using dropout alignment tools. Did you do that as well as spreading the dropouts?

Do the outer locknuts/endcaps on the hub have any grip? From the photo it doesn't look like it.
Unfortunately, I don't have this tool. I can take it to my LBS to ensure the alignment is good. But I will do this only if my new skewer doesn't fix this issue.
We're looking to have somewhat decent weather on Sunday this weekend. I'll take this Nishiki out for a spin and crank the pedals a few times to see if the new skewer holds tight.
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Old 02-23-24, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Camilo
But really, has anyone, ever, actually noticed a skewer and thought: ooohhh my oh my, that's one fiiiiinnne skewer! I'm flustered! or Gaak, that's butt u-u-u-ugly, I can't bear to look at it!
I'd say my polished steel training skewer matches my Pacenti wheels perfectly. Definitely a "ooohhh my oh my, that's one fiiiiinnne skewer!" type of skewer. I even bought a front 100mm matching one.
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Old 02-23-24, 03:46 PM
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So, I guess it's safe to assume it solved the wheel slippage problem?
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Old 02-24-24, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by friday1970
Unfortunately, I don't have this tool. I can take it to my LBS to ensure the alignment is good. But I will do this only if my new skewer doesn't fix this issue.
We're looking to have somewhat decent weather on Sunday this weekend. I'll take this Nishiki out for a spin and crank the pedals a few times to see if the new skewer holds tight.
A home made alignment tool is very, very easy to make with readily available parts, and easy to use. I made something like this and it worked well when I spread the rear spacing of an older steel bike

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Old 02-24-24, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Camilo
A home made alignment tool is very, very easy to make with readily available parts, and easy to use. I made something like this and it worked well when I spread the rear spacing of an older steel bike

How To Make DIY Dropout Alignment Gauge Tools - YouTube
That is a really good tip. I used a 15” crescent wrench and a square in the dropouts. But this is a better way to go.

If the dropouts aren’t square the best skewers in the world won’t straighten them.

John
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Old 02-27-24, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun
If you want to go retro, get a solid axle & serrated nuts.

The axle won't be long enough for sufficient purchase. As well as, you probably won't find the correct diameter and threading.
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Old 02-27-24, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by oldbobcat
The axle won't be long enough for sufficient purchase. As well as, you probably won't find the correct diameter and threading.
https://wheelsmfg.com/products/hub-parts/all-axles.html
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Old 02-27-24, 01:07 PM
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So you're talking about rebuilding the hub instead of purchasing a closed-cam skewer? Do you charge by the hour?
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Old 02-27-24, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by oldbobcat
So you're talking about rebuilding the hub instead of purchasing a closed-cam skewer? Do you charge by the hour?
Not sure what you're rambling on about.
Where did I say anything about rebuilding a hub or charging anything?
I've swapped in solid axles for QR simply for security reasons. What's your issue?
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Old 02-27-24, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun
I've swapped in solid axles for QR simply for security reasons. What's your issue?
Well, good for you. But this guy just wanted to keep his hub from slipping in the horizontal dropout. What is your problem?

Riders a lot stronger than you or I have been successfully using closed-cam skewers in horizontal dropouts for over 90 years.

Last edited by oldbobcat; 02-27-24 at 10:16 PM.
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