Change dual pivot brakes
 

I want to change my dia comps brs 100 dual pivot brakes with super record dual pivot brakes using the same brake levers
can I do it?

they’ll operate fine - however, remember that Campag calipers don’t have a release lever sometimes necessary for installing/removing wheels with inflated tires. The release is built into the levers, so Campag calipers with non-Campag levers will leave you with no release, which could be an issue.

How do you circumnavigate that issue

The more important question is that
replacing my dia comp brs 100 dual pivot brake calipers
with high quality campagnolo super record dual pivot brake calipers work with my dia comp brake levers

Like it was said above it will work but you don't have the release. If you want to upgrade calipers significantly go with eeBrakes from Cane Creek, the finest rim brakes out there at the moment. If you want better braking with your current set up I would highly recommend the Jagwire Elite Link kit which has really excellent cables and housing (that also happens to be quite lightweight) and getting some SwissStop brake pads and shoes. That will greatly improve your braking without having to replace the calipers and without the release issue of Campy.

Campagnolo does make nice stuff but they kind of have their own eco system that is hard to break into with other manufacturers. To get around the issue you really can't unless you get a lever that has the release on it but in the end if I were doing that I would be running Campagnolo already.

It's not always an issue. The extent of the problem depends on how much wider than the rim, the tire is.

It also depends on how often you remove wheels, and why. If the wheels stay on except for flats, then just remember to remount the wheel before pumping the tire.

Another solution could be setting the cable so the barrel adjusters are near the top of their usable range. They screw them all the way down to open the brakes, and back up to reset them. Kind of a slow release.

If you are not running brifters, you could simply get Tektro levers. Most, maybe all the current ones come with releases. Good levers and some of us find them very comfortable. Not expensive.

I have owned and used almost every model of Campagnolo brakes going back to the 70s. The " high quality Super Record" brakes will not stop you any better than an inexpensive set of Tektros or Dia Compes, which I suspect are the same thing. The dimensions of these brakes are roughly the same, which means the same mechanical advantage, which means same stopping power. The expensive calipers have probably sightly less friction, and higher quality materials, and they are somewhat lighter, but definitely not worth the additional cost. If I had that amount of money to spend on brake calipers, it would be better allocated to better tires and tubes.

That is subject to using good pads and cables and housing.

And you've been notified about the lack of quick release on the Campy calipers. If you have 25mm or larger tires, you probably won't be able to get the wheels out without disconnecting the brake cables from the calipers, a tedious nuisance.

At $389.99 per caliper with no lever, they should be.

I ran into a similar problem when using 25mm tires on 15mm rims - as long as the calipers will span the rims, all you need to do is deflate the tires prior to wheel removal and only reinflate after the wheel is installed. Yes, it’s a PITA, but you get used to the routine. There’s no need to disconnect brake cables, which I would consider a significantly larger issue. That’s not to say I wasn’t very happy when I switched to 17mm rims and the problem resolved itself. Of course, my solution might not be practical with tubeless.

Low tech solution is to deflate the tire before installing or removing wheel. Long ago it's what I did for my cheap bikes that didn't have that release.

It only became a issue when running wide tires on a narrow rim. Having a release on the calipers or brake lever is a much better option.

Hear hear. Going to a more expensive dual pivot brakes will not do any miracles. Fix what is wrong with your existing Dia Compe brakes first. In terms of upgrades I would say the best upgrade would be a rim with machined sidewall, properly trued. After that some way to toe-in the brake pads. After that quality brake pads. After that quality brake cables and housing.

Really? You can pretty much do that by sticking abrasive paper to your brake blocks and coasting down a hill. Then clean the rim with IPA. Or just the IPA will probably work fine. Truing doesn't affect brake performance much, apart from letting you set the blocks close. A bulge or dent is a different issue, as it can make the brake snatch.Toe-in by bending the caliper arms, or filing the blocks, but quality brake pads are usually adjustable anyway.TLDR: clean the rims before fitting quality blocks correctly, and new cables.

​​​​​​https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-CB...izfygCn_IQn2n4

The only semi easy way would be to set the cable length adjuster on the caliper so it is almost all of the way out. Leave a little to make your lever adjustments. Then to ease the pads out and permit the wheel to be removed and replaced you screw that adjuster all the way in. Then before riding you adjust it back out to where it was and do a last check of the brake lever movement and friction point.

They are I have two sets and they weigh nearly nothing (I remember my first pair and pulling out the rear caliper and thinking "oh crap they forgot the caliper" and then hearing it move and was like "oh" but having ridden on them for 6+ years they are fantastic. Extremely expensive but certainly if you can swing it well worth it as it does stop better than other calipers I have tried and they look way cooler too.

I saw them on a bike that visited the LBS; I studied them for several minutes, grokking the linkage. I never imagined the price, figuring perhaps $100 per caliper.

When they said machined sidewalls, I think (not certain) they meant ones with intentional machining grooves running cross or diagonal to pad direction, sorta like from a slightly inclined fly-cutter or insert machining head. I think I've seen rims like that, and also with some sort of ceramic coating (cerakote, like firearms?) I could really use that, my rims are too polished smooth, but also concaved and thus thinning there, I don't want to remove any more metal, even with a small flexible sanding disc.

Forget the QR-less Campagnolos and get some 7700 or 7800 Dura Ace calipers, SwissStop pads and some compressionless housing and call it a day.

Some rims are skimmed on the braking surface so the coating doesn't interfere with braking, and to make the rim surfaces more precisely parallel, some rims are lightly grooved which increases brake contact area, but not as much as some rims in the 1970s/80s which had the grooves extruded into them. Some trials riders scuff their rims with a coarse grinding disc to increase holding power rather than stopping power.
Ceramic coating makes the treated rim very resistant to abrasion and wet braking is reportedly improved with some processes but it needs special block compounds which tend to wear rapidly, and take a while to bed in. Historically the coating has a tendency to crack and flake after some use, but rim companies have been working on this for decades and newer processes are claimed to be better. Ryde used to offer a process that embedded tungsten carbide particles in the rim, but they seem to have dropped that - apparently mediocre brake performance when wet, as rims polished with wear, was a problem.
Rim brakes make rims a wear item, replacing them is more hassle than swapping out disc rotors, but we lived with that for a century before modern disc brakes.

(above) Grumpus, thanks, good info! Tungsten carbide, wow, it wouldn't surprise me at all if someday some rims had embedded diamond dust, as this has become common for some knife sharpening plates, even with mined diamonds, and now, synthetic diamonds have been on the market for years. When I was back in industry, research was looking at diamond coatings in place of chrome plate for high wear applications. I know some zirconia-based coatings are on the market for protecting, of all things, concrete.

I'd love an easy way to restore the hard anodizing on rims (and aluminum cookware). My cheap rims, I think didn't even come with that.

Personally, I would never consider the rims on rim-brake bikes a "wear item," any more than a frame or handlebars are wear items, subject to eventually wearing out with use.

In 10 years as a shop mechanic in three California bike shops, not once did a rim come in that had been so worn by rim brakes that it warranted replacement.

+1

I typically ride rims with a wall thickness of 1mm, which is less than the wear allowance of most modern rims.

I've never had rim wear issues even with wheels lasting over 25k miles.

IMO brake/rim wear only matters for mtb and wet weather commuters.

You see them all the time in Seattle, where there are both hills and weather. So I would keep my opinions about rims never wearing out to myself. My commuter is showing definite cupping on the front Mavic CX22 rim after 3 years. A 100 pound friend wore right through her Mavic carbon rim.

Rim brakes rims are a wear item. Spokes are not.

Who are you, the Forum police? I will unequivocally express my opinion on any subject at any time.