Help with adjusting height of handlebars
 

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...88463b99e7.jpg
I have the Allen key that will fit this bolt, but I just need a process that is most suitable for adjusting the height. I want to bring the handlebars up, and what to use grease on while inside. And the name of the type of setup I have. I think this is not been done in many years.
thanks

That's a quill stem setup.

Put the allen wrench in the bolt and loosen several turns. With the allen still in place, rap it with a mallet to push the bolt down. This will loosen the wedge the bolt is connected to that is down inside the steerer tube. Once it is loose, the stem can be pulled directly up and out for greasing.

Thanks I'll give it a try

Be sure to look for a minimum insertion point marked on the stem. It may already be as high as it’ll safely go.

wrap a little tape around the base of the stem now, so you have a reference point for deciding how high up to want the set the new position.

Ditto to the good advice you've already been given above. If you need more height than the minimum insertion line of the stem, Nitto sells some taller Technomic ones to get the bars up further. There are various lengths and a couple of different finish options. The Technomic Deluxe is a nicer looking one (IMO, of course) technomic - Ben's Cycle (benscycle.com)

You can also see from the photos on this link the way quill stems are designed - why you loosen the allen bolt and then tap down on it to free the wedge and release the stem from the steer tube.

What he said, I like using a hammer on a block of wood, maple is my favorite, goes without saying, make sure the head of the bolt protrudes above the stem.

To avoid scraping or denting the stem or the headset's lock nut, hold the bar/stem assembly up while you rap on the stem bolt. That keeps it from crashing down. A nice bike deserves that extra care.

Watch out, if the quill stem nut is rust-welded, hammering down on the bolt can bend the bolt or kill the threads.

Those rust-welded quill stems are so much fun to work on :D

Sorry no photos. Trade secret!

Everything turned out fine I was careful and things went exactly as described to me they should . I also greased up everything nicely.
But I don't know how much length I have to play with. there is a word max and a line but this seems to be the minimum how far UP can I bring the bars?

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...69073c1726.jpg

If the “max” is visible, the stem is too high.

Not probably, must

The maximum extension is that line.

The concerns about too high a stem position is that the stem's bottom portion can see too much bending forces and can break off the upper portion of the stem, with only the wedge and bolt holding it together while you try to not lose control while descending:) Assuming one doesn't crash too hard that broken stem could be replaced with one that allows a taller position (like the Nitto Techmatics mentioned). Not the end of the world (for the bike...)

But the other more devious potential is that the stem lower portion will also be stressing the top portion of the fork, which on this bike has many stress risers formed into it (they are called threads for the headset). If the stem's wedge portion is within the threaded portion of the steerer, and not below the threads, the expansive forces from that wedge and the bending forces from so little insertion can and does damage/break off the top of the steerer. This is a much worse outcome when going down that hill. And it tends to be more expensive to replace the fork and stem than just the stem (and not including any injuries to you).

If you do replace the stem make sure the clamping diameters of the handle bars and that stem match. Andy

Thanks a lot for the excellent explanation and to everyone else too. My bike riding style and, where I am riding has very few if any hills I am not going to push this bike very hard except in a straight line when I want to go fast on the roads allowed in the city I am not racing this bike it's only going to be for city commute and picking up things I need to take home in a good sized Carradice Seat post bag and handle bar bag . If I go a little past the max line , perhaps I can get away with not having to purchase another stem? I mean by 1/2 inch, at the very most.???

Why the heck would you do that? It's got a maximum line, none of what you wrote justifies not following it.

True, none of what I wrote, is the reason for me wanting to raise the bar up. AS I need to raise the seat post which fortunately I have a good amount of extra post to play with , I will need to raise the handlebar stem and a half an inch may do the trick. I don't know yet. if not I will have to buy another handlebar stem. but my budget is not so free ( there is not a consideration) ,for me to pay $85-$95 on top of the other things and other expenses that I have to put the bike on the road , understand?

It'll work until it doesn't.

You know those decisions you made in the past that you now bitterly regret? This is one of those decisions, with the added factor of possibly being a life-and-death one.

You can easily find a tall, safe stem for under $50. Just buy the damned stem.

OK I'm going to do that.
I see there are a variety of stems new or used . I think I will first get the seat height just right and then I will decide on the stem for me. I see that the length of the stems are not only different from the height but it is important to consider the length of the reach being shorter or longer . I guess I'm going to have to do some measuring of my torso, arms, and legs . Or is there an easier way from what I read about ?, I may seek the help of a shop. I am not very good with numbers,..... largely due to dyslexia.

If you have a local bike co-op you can find a replacement cheap.

For what you are doing, I’d probably opt for a quill stem adapter and a threadless stem that fits your handlebar clamp diameter.

Quill stem adapters are probably $10-$15 and a 28.6mm to 26.0mm threadless stem is probably $15-$20. At a co-op probably half that.

Nice thing about a threadless stem is you can flip-flop it or change the length and angle down the road without having to replace the quill.

John

Combining all the bad features of both systems probably isn't such a great idea.
Nasty thing about a threadless stem is that you can't easily adjust the height, something which is very easy to do with a quill stem.

This solved my problem - maybe same as yours - to bring the handlebar up and closer on a 1996 Klein road bike I recently purchased:

https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Alloy...d_i=B003Q3SY2Y

Easy to install, good looking, and very reasonably priced. Measure carefully (quill diameter and handlebar diameter where it is clamped) and get a stem that will safely help you get the fit you want.

I see your quill is 22.2 mm. Italian handlebar of your Gios's vintage is probably 26.4 mm.

To change the height on a threadless you need an allen wrench. To do it on a quill you need and allen and a mallet.

I'm surprised the bar on your Klein is 25.4 rather than 26.0.

Let me guess:

You ignored the advice to not buy a 48cm, and now you're fixing that problem by ignoring the advice not put the stem up too high?

However, you have a really short stem on a short top tube. You don't need the bar very high because it is horizontally so close to you. Just reach down rather than out.

I did not ignore any advice some people thought my 48 cm was too small but plenty of others thought it would be all right . Looking at old photographs of people racing bicycles the proportions of this bicycle and myself are a good fit. On the other silly point in my opinion" my last post" the first sentence ("OK I'm going to do that" ). the opposite of what you have indicated . No offense