Handlebar raising
 

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...434368395d.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a45f5aba29.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...36f422fd58.jpg

Hello.

Just bought this bike and I'm wondering what I need to do if I want to raise the handlebar (so I can be in a more upright position). This one isn't like the bikes I had before where it was easy to just loosen a bolt and pull the bar up. I'm not sure if I can change the height at all on this one. If you notice this bike has a front damper/shock. And if anyone has experience with these, are these shocks a headache ? I read people keep having problems with them.

BTW, this is a Cannondale and I think it's Fatboy Ultra but not sure.


Thank you.

Looks like your stem has a fairly steep angle already, so I doubt Cannodale made a stem to fit with a steeper angle....You could change out your bars with something that has a higher rise...moto bars come to mind. John

Yup, changing bars is the simplest option as it has a quite uncommon stem size (steerer diameter).

Looks as if that bar has a bit of rise but there are some with up to 80mm. That's your only option other than adapting.

https://shop.fairdalebikes.com/produ...3-cruiser-bars

I find this bar comfortable, 70mm of rise with 15* backsweep (a little more swept back than most MTB bars). This is for a 31.8 handlebar clamp so check that on your stem before buying anything. You could also get something else with more rise if needed. Keep in mind you may have to replace cables to bring the bars up significantly.

as mentioned earlier - the bike is already equipped with a riser stem and bar

plus this is a Headshok bike that will also sit up higher in the front (compared to most other bikes)

is the stem a 20 degree stem ? if so this might be the max rise avail in a Headshok stem (1.56 or 1.50 - this bike prob has 1.56)

( the identifying numbers might be printed on the stem )

(again) - as mentioned earlier - a bar with a greater rise might be an option

a slightly shorter stem might be an option - but this might or not be a good option (depends on top tube length pref / fit) and Bad Boy’s typically already have a relatively upright position / short top tube / short reach)

Headshok has some pluses and some minuses - but in this application they can provide benefit with fairly good reliability and few issues … not familiar with the different Headshok systems - but the lower end / simple headshok systems spec’d on most hybrid models tend to be reliable … if the lockout still works that is typically a sign the damper still works (to some degree)

This sort of thing will add a couple of inches.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fecb7fd694.jpg

Thank you for all the replies. Much appreciated. I guess I'm going to need some sort of an extender. On my old Trek all I had to do was to loosen a bolt and pull up on the handlebar to bring it higher. I don't think this is possible with this bike. There was nothing to pull out when I loosened the screws. It's not too comfortable riding the bike as I'm leaning a little too much forward -which I don't like- and I'm trying to get a more upright position.

It sounds like your old Trek had a quill stem which, as you stated above, is adjustable for height by loosening the quill bolt. On these, the headset is totally separate from the stem and relies on threads on the fork's steer tube to set and maintain preload on the bearings (and to hold the whole thing together in general). The quill stem is entirely separate to the headset and can be removed completely without touching the headset.

Your Cannondale has a variation of a threadless stem, wherein the steer tube is not threaded and the stem slides down around the steer tube and clamps around it. On these, you set the preload of the system first with the center bolt, and then clamp the stem. From that point, you could actually remove that center bolt (as it sounds like you may have done) without upsetting the headset's preload...but you also can't do anything with the stem unless you take the whole system apart.

(I said variation above because I don't know what modifications or non-standard components Cannondale used in its Headshock design...regardless, the basic headset principle remains.)

get higher rise bars... that Cannondale fork uses a larger, 1.5" sized Steerer tube and the stems are EXPENSIVE when you do find one... there are bars with up to 6" rise available... don't get greedy... go with a 3 or 4" rise, or your rump will hate you, and your back will punish you.
people need to get used to riding before making a bunch of seemingly "good" changes that end up causing MORE pain...
the more vertical you sit, the more weight gets put on your now out-of-position rump, and then your lower back and hips end up moving/working more in response.... Chaffing then sets in, and it's NOT pretty.

See: Monkey butt.

Maybe you can use one of these, if it fits and the steer tube is metal (not carbon fiber):

BBB BHP-22 - TubeExtend Steerer Extender 28.6mm (Black) | eBay

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/X2MAA...OK/s-l400.webp

These will not work with the Cannondale’s oversized steer tube.

This is good advice.

I've learned many things in my years of tinkering with and riding bikes, but one of them is that the study of ergonomics on a bike is often measured in fractions of an inch, or centimeters if you like. That is, what might seem to be a small change (just a few centimeters of rise, or just a few degrees of back sweep, or just an inch in additional reach), can make a very large difference in how the bike feels. In other words, don't go overboard on changes...start conservatively and make adjustments in small increments.

Take a look at the OP's picture of the bike. The top of the steer tube has a suspension lock out lever. Steer tube extenders will not fit that bike. bars with more rise would be the only option
Looking at the picture of the bike, the handlebars are already a fair bit higher than the saddle.

That's a good point - perhaps the handlebar is too far away because the bike's too big for him.

Aside from not working on OP's bike, does any legit stem or fork maker offer those extensions? They seem to be mostly AliXYZ brands.

that extender won't work on that cannondale... not even close, for more than one reason.

I've been looking for these. Do you know where I can find them?

You could also have framebuilder braze an insert into the fork so the steerer tube where the handlebar stem connects is a standard 1-1/8". There is a recent thread here on BF where someone mentioned a cost effective builder that does this.

... which would mean removing the cannondale suspension fork completely...

if changing the fork to a 1 1/8" steerer becomes a choice, it would be much easier to just buy The ADAPTER HEADSET KITS that are commercially available.... i've installed two in ten years time....
the kits come in 1 1/8" straight, or modern-tapered.

the tough thing to find is the 1 1/4" to 1 1/8" kits.... there's one installed in my M600 Cannondale. and it let me install the Marzocchi Bomber Superfly fork i found, in Excellent condition, for $15...:D the colors even match fairly well.... the bike is dressed in STX dark chrome, including the stx parallelogram hubs, cranks and rings... that bike has a "not really for sale " price on it.. for now....;)

ebay for the 1 1/2 to 1 1/8 conversions..
as to the 1 1/4" to 1 1/8.. they are also available from white bros., if you want to wait for them to make some more.
the 1 1/4 to 1 1/8 kit i found is a cheapo-chinese one.. fit great, and is working fine,... at 1/4 the cost, but still $50

i have a Santana Tandem.. $75 at a Garage sale in Seaside, Oregon..in working, just tuned condition. I put new chains on it, and re-taped the bars...i upgraded from 5 to 7 cogs in the back.
She seemed sad about selling it... they were downsizing and hitting the sunbird trail in a motor coach...

Thanks for the reply and explanation. Yeah, I thought it would be easy like the old Trek and even the newer Garneau I had but apparently it isn't on this one.

Yea, totally unfamiliar with that bike. That's why I said, maybe and if it fits. Just a suggestion for something the OP to consider since he's unfamiliar with the difference between threadless and quill stems.

Cannondale is prone to re-Engineering the wheel, frequently... pretty sure the 1 1/4 Steerer is a Canny-only curse...
Cannoworms.

see: the Lefty bikes.... including one with a lefty REAR suspension too.
fast, light, and never trusted completely.
i once watched one of their test sessions at Washougal MX Park when i was caretaker up there... it quickly devolved into a series of intense "discussions' when the new engines seized twice in one day.... and the frame cracked again....the Cannondale MX motorcycle division disbanded not long after that test session... development was simply too costly for the rather small company.

a Yamaha prototype i rode a couple years later was conservatively estimated to be worth over a Half Million Dollars... it bristled with Titanium and billet parts... light, scary quick, and one of the first M/C engines using Formula One 4-stroke tech.... i suggested a bit more flywheel weight to tame it down a touch...they agreed.