How to remove this crank and bottom bracket?
 

Hi,
I started trying to remove the crankset and bottom bracket of this bike I have, It's my first time doing that. I tried looking a bit in the web, but got really overwhelmed and confused.

The crackset is a "sram truvativ crankset x flow" and I have not idea of the bottom bracket. I have the pictures but I cant post as Im a new member =S

Is there anyway for me to share the pictures? I dont know which bottom bracket it is... And I dont know how I can describe it...

I managed to remove the nuts that were in both side and the left arm, but now Im stuck without knowing how to remove the rest.

Cheers

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...cbefd849a9.png
Take the bolts out of the crank centers. Make sure there are no washers left in there.

Get a square taper crank extractor tool. Follow the directions, to include tightening the tool well into the crank with a wrench before turning the extractor.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...eb09f7a112.png


Once the cranks are forced off, there will be a specific tool for the cartridge bottom bracket, probably this one:

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b751f0e294.png
Right cup is reverse thread, left is normal.

Thanks! The local shop dont have those tools here, but I think I found them in temu =D

you might want to find a better "local shop".

To be fair the local bike shops here, while they have great mechanics, don’t sell these tools. No margin in it.

I think the OP meant that they don't have tools to sell vs tools that they use.

Now me, I have never bought anything from Temu

i also have never bought from Temu.. however, my best friend has bought a slew of clothes from them, and some consumable bike supplies too...... One shirt had a sewing issue, but the others he wears frequently... he has never had a package not arrive.....

and i like shops that stock and sell tools, along with services, and other parts.
i stock at least two crank pullers here... a couple chain breakers, air pumps of various configs, some select sizes of cone wrenches, etc.
and if someone wants one, but just can't wait for it to arrive, i'll sell them a tool right out of my box, as used, then re-order a new one.

A bike tool from a website like Temu sounds like you are buying new cranks and new tools in addition to the Temu stuff. I don't have time or money for that so I would buy more quality tools from known quantities and qualities. The problem with cheap tools is they aren't low cost, they are expensive they are just cheaply made, cheaply put together and feel cheap in the hand all while potentially damaging your bike or whatever you are using the tool on.

It is one thing to run into a Home Despot to buy a tool out of pure desperation because you have an emergency and things are real bad it is another to go online to a place where you can get quality stuff from the tool makers or from legitimate bike shops with the same ease and choose to buy unknown stuff from a random website that doesn't specialize in anything but low initial cost items. Don't fall down that trap, get the right tools or go to your local shop that has the tools and let them take care of it.

If your shop doesn't have the tools to sell, that sucks I own a shop now and cannot stock everything I want and it is tough (but I do have a bunch of tools, a tool wall is important) , if they don't have the tools to work on it then yes find a new shop. However it should be noted most shops would order you something if you need it.

This is a good point

The crank puller/extractor, the threads between the inner and outer parts, will probably be bone dry. Some good grease on those threads (wheel bearing grease is fine), or anti-seize if that's what you happen to have, will work wonders in reducing the force you need to turn to pull the crank loose from the spindle tapers.

Hard to go wrong with Park Tools. My crank puller is different, bought at bike shop in the '80s before I knew about Park, but it's still going strong, nice hard steel, not complicated, and includes a double-ended socket for the two common bolt/nut sizes, and crank handle, no other wrenches needed.

I actually already had a crank puller bought years earlier, but it was for a French bike, and that didn't fit the vast majority of crank threads. Still have that French size one in my toolbox.

Hei,
thanks! I managed to get the crank extractor tool and remove the crankset! Now the challenge is to remove the bottom bracket. I got something similar to the picture from Kontacts answer. it looks to match the threads I have but it doesnt go very deep, so it stays a bit loose so when I try to use a arm wrench to turn it, the tool slips from the bottom bracket. Could it be that I have the wrong tool/fit? Or any thoughts of what could be the issue?

That's a common problem with those, some people hack solutions which keep the tool clamped in place and some use double ended wrenches which balance the forces encouraging the tool to move across the plane of the teeth. Or both.

and make sure you're turning it the right way (drive side is reverse threaded)

ISTR Stronglight and TA had different size extractor threads ... ah yes, 23.35 vs 23.0 mm, while JIS is 22 mm.

Something like this can help a lot.


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...258e2afc9.jpeg

You probably want to retain it in some fashion like this-
Adjust bolt length & washer stack to suit. Bolt is 8mm x 1mm thread. 8mmx1.25mm is more common.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...be4368ac19.jpg

he said he removed nuts, not bolts... this makes things trickier...
i use this type of BB tool on those... Park Tool BBT-32
the drive hex is larger, and near the splines, compared to the most common chrome BB removers, plus the large opening can allow access to the threaded stud end of the nutted spindles, and creative washering, if needed... like a 8 x1.25mm standoff and a bolt/washers.

If it looks like it fits, and it doesn't seem to be a loose fit when you turn it by hand, then it's just a shallow engagement. This can be a problem with these tools. A way to avoid it twisting out is to drive the extractor with an impact wrench: that way you're not pulling sideways with a lever, just holding the tool squarely in place and pushing with some body weight.

what’s that bolt screwed into?

The bottom bracket spindle.

Oh ok. Doesn’t look as wide diameter as your tool you linked which looks like it threads into the same place as an extraction tool . Does the spindle have another smaller threaded hole in the centre of it?

The narrower end of the tool threads into the spindle, or you flip the tool around to use for larger spindles like Octalink.

You really shouldn't need a bolt to retain a spline tool of that type. Lots of engagement and little ability for the tool to pop out.

Yet the smart people at Pedros (just the two of them) had the brilliant idea to make a tool to hold it and having used it I can say with 100% surety it is a very handy and very useful tool. I have taken off plenty of bottom brackets and had the tool slip without it so having that tool makes life easier, like a 3rd hand (or 4th hand tool).

If the bottom bracket installed was installed properly and has been checked regularly and the splines are deep then no you won't need it but for a bike that has been poorly maintained or never had the B.B. touched and might not have had much if any grease you will appreciate the tool as I have many times.

Yeah my question was about the other DIY one but now I see it works like yours does when flipped.

The splines on my son’s MTB are about 2-3mm deep at most. When I removed it without a tool like this, it was very prone to slipping.