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Tool to remove cassette ?
What’s the Park Tool’s tool (model nr) to remove this type of cassetts? Please check the photos.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...466896d29.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...47f18776e.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...dec2caafe.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...be7932d19.jpeg |
Shimano freewheel tool:
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Fre.../dp/B01FI8WWZY https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/...AC_SL1500_.jpg Note that there are two different types of Shimano freewheel tools- the old type and the new type (the new type is sometimes called UG style). The old type is smaller and NOT compatible with this freewheel. The old style looks like this: https://www.thebikesmiths.com/cdn/sh...2613&width=580 |
Originally Posted by bikeamateur70
(Post 23411212)
What’s the Park Tool’s tool (model nr) to remove this type of cassetts? Please check the photos.
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Originally Posted by JoeTBM
(Post 23411498)
FYI, that is not a cassette, it is called a freewheel
Freewheel or Cassette? |
Originally Posted by icemilkcoffee
(Post 23411238)
Shimano freewheel tool:
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Fre.../dp/B01FI8WWZY https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/...AC_SL1500_.jpg Note that there are two different types of Shimano freewheel tools- the old type and the new type (the new type is sometimes called UG style). The old type is smaller and NOT compatible with this freewheel. The old style looks like this: https://www.thebikesmiths.com/cdn/sh...2613&width=580 |
Originally Posted by KerryIrons
(Post 23412460)
And not that the old style tool will not work unless you remove the axle first; there isn't enough room to slide the tool in. You need the thin-wall tool.
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Originally Posted by KerryIrons
(Post 23412460)
And not that the old style tool will not work unless you remove the axle first; there isn't enough room to slide the tool in. You need the thin-wall tool.
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I have a Schwinn Triaxion mountain bike, and would like to remove the cassette so I can clean and re-grease the bearings. I have looked and looked, and cannot find the correct removal tool. Can one of you please help? The diameter of the splines is around 31mm. I would post a photo, but the forum will not allow me since this is my first post!
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Look at post #4 to make sure it's a cassette.
IF it's a "standard Shimano compatible cassette. a PARK 5.2 would be the tool. Just Google cassette removal tool. (If it's <8 speed, it's "likely" a free wheel. You'll also need a chain whip to hold the cassette. https://www.parktool.com/en-us/produ...ng-tool-fr-5-2 |
Bill, Thanks for your advice. It's a cassette. I have the Park FR5.2G tool. It is too small. It's diameter is around 22mm. What I need is around 31mm.
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Originally Posted by johnhoef
(Post 23431770)
Bill, Thanks for your advice. It's a cassette. I have the Park FR5.2G tool. It is too small. It's diameter is around 22mm. What I need is around 31mm.
Red arrows show the splines- https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0d4ba9346.jpeg Just Google Free wheel removal tool. https://www.parktool.com/en-us/produ...remover-fr-1-3 |
Bill, thank you for your desire to help me. The photo you are referring to is not mine. As I mentioned earlier, this forum will not allow me to post a photo...wish I could, as it would become obviously clear what I am dealing with. The tool I need definitely needs to be around 31mm in diameter. According to what I have found to be the definition of a cassette, mine is that. The locking ring rotates with the sprockets, and it is this locking ring that needs to be removed. The freewheel removal tool you are referring me to (FR-1.3), is 22.6mm in diameter. This is too small.
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Are there any brand name, part numbers or ??? on the "device"?
What are the tooth counts of the smallest & largest cog? How many cogs? |
Originally Posted by johnhoef
(Post 23431796)
Bill, thank you for your desire to help me. The photo you are referring to is not mine. As I mentioned earlier, this forum will not allow me to post a photo...wish I could, as it would become obviously clear what I am dealing with. The tool I need definitely needs to be around 31mm in diameter. According to what I have found to be the definition of a cassette, mine is that. The locking ring rotates with the sprockets, and it is this locking ring that needs to be removed. The freewheel removal tool you are referring me to (FR-1.3), is 22.6mm in diameter. This is too small.
To remove the Entire Freewheel assembly from the Hub., use the Standard Shimano Freewheel Remover tool, Park Tool #FR-1.3 if there is an issue other than the wheel bearings, axle cones, or axle inside the hub, remove the freewheel, toss it in the recycle bin, and order another freewheel assembly with the same tooth count as the one you removed. And, to be sure.,.. the Cassette Lockring tool is about 1mm larger than the Freewheel remover tool, PERIOD. the folks that are telling you this accurate information work on bicycles frequently, and i run a small co-op bicycle shop... we are not messing with you, and have zero reason to lie to you. if you don't believe us.. here's the 23.5mm diameter Park FR-5.2 tool...the STANDARD SHIMANO CASSETTE LOCKRING remover tool...it works on several other brands of CASSETTES. It will NOT fit a shimano freewheel.. if you buy one, it will come in handy when you upgrade to a better bike. https://www.parktool.com/en-us/produ...ng-tool-fr-5-2 here's the tool used to remove a Shimano-type FREEWHEEL. it fits many other modern freewheels too, including ones on much cheaper walmart MTBs. https://www.jensonusa.com/Park-Tool-...0c08ced12f6d0c and here's your bike.... https://mtbdatabase.com/bikes/2022/s...hwinn-traxion/ |
Bill,
Thank you for your continued help. If we keep up this dialog, I will hit the 10 posts requirement for showing you all a photo! And once I can show you a photo, I'm sure it will all become clear! Looking at the sprocket cluster, or cassette, I find no markings at all. There are 8 sprockets. Smallest one has 13 cogs, and the largest one has 28 cogs.The derailleur has the markings "Shimano Tourney TX" Maddog34, Thank you too for your help. |
Thought I would add a little more, and I hope I can describe this accurately.....Before I disassembled this, I had two concerns. The sprocket cluster was a bit wobbly, meaning too much play in the ball bearings. I wanted to tighten that up. Also, as long as I had the unit apart, I could clean it up, and apply fresh grease. So removing the wheel from the bicycle, and laying it sprocket side up on my work bench, I noticed the threaded ring that is tightened up against the balls in the ball bearing was loose. I went ahead and loosened it up all the way until the entire sprocket cluster came off. And, of course, all the balls fell out. So this threaded ring is tightened up against two very thin circular shims. These shims allow the threaded ring to be tightened up completely, while still allowing the correct amount of play in the bearings. So, now I have the sprocket cluster off the wheel, that inner threaded ring is loose behind this outer ring...and it is this outer ring that I want to get off with the special tool. This needs to be done so I can re-install the balls easily. I hope this description helps! Again, I sure appreciate your help. Sure would be nice to get this done, so I can hit the trails again!
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Originally Posted by johnhoef
(Post 23431977)
Thought I would add a little more, and I hope I can describe this accurately.....Before I disassembled this, I had two concerns. The sprocket cluster was a bit wobbly, meaning too much play in the ball bearings. I wanted to tighten that up. Also, as long as I had the unit apart, I could clean it up, and apply fresh grease. So removing the wheel from the bicycle, and laying it sprocket side up on my work bench, I noticed the threaded ring that is tightened up against the balls in the ball bearing was loose. I went ahead and loosened it up all the way until the entire sprocket cluster came off. And, of course, all the balls fell out. So this threaded ring is tightened up against two very thin circular shims. These shims allow the threaded ring to be tightened up completely, while still allowing the correct amount of play in the bearings. So, now I have the sprocket cluster off the wheel, that inner threaded ring is loose behind this outer ring...and it is this outer ring that I want to get off with the special tool. This needs to be done so I can re-install the balls easily. I hope this description helps! Again, I sure appreciate your help. Sure would be nice to get this done, so I can hit the trails again!
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Originally Posted by alcjphil
(Post 23432125)
That outer ring has absolutely nothing to do with being able to reinstall the bearing balls. That ring is only there to hold the sprockets in place on the freewheel body. Removing it will not enable you to get any farther installing the balls.
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Originally Posted by johnhoef
(Post 23431977)
Thought I would add a little more, and I hope I can describe this accurately.....Before I disassembled this, I had two concerns. The sprocket cluster was a bit wobbly, meaning too much play in the ball bearings. I wanted to tighten that up. Also, as long as I had the unit apart, I could clean it up, and apply fresh grease. So removing the wheel from the bicycle, and laying it sprocket side up on my work bench, I noticed the threaded ring that is tightened up against the balls in the ball bearing was loose. I went ahead and loosened it up all the way until the entire sprocket cluster came off. And, of course, all the balls fell out. So this threaded ring is tightened up against two very thin circular shims. These shims allow the threaded ring to be tightened up completely, while still allowing the correct amount of play in the bearings. So, now I have the sprocket cluster off the wheel, that inner threaded ring is loose behind this outer ring...and it is this outer ring that I want to get off with the special tool. This needs to be done so I can re-install the balls easily. I hope this description helps! Again, I sure appreciate your help. Sure would be nice to get this done, so I can hit the trails again!
most folks get a new freewheel. and you can post to the greetings and regional forums to add more posts... or even post a pic to a Gallery/album, then mention that here... someone can then repost it to this thread for you... ;) |
Do we think John has a freewheel? I’m not sure how he managed to get the freehub off if it is a cassette that’s still in place, but his initial description sounded like one.
It’s possible to upload a photo to personal gallery or something before the 10 post limit and then someone can copy it across. I’ve never 100% understood how that works but people seem to find it :lol: |
Originally Posted by choddo
(Post 23432216)
Do we think John has a freewheel? I’m not sure how he managed to get the freehub off if it is a cassette that’s still in place, but his initial description sounded like one.
It’s possible to upload a photo to personal gallery or something before the 10 post limit and then someone can copy it across. I’ve never 100% understood how that works but people seem to find it :lol: a 13x28 8 speed. |
Originally Posted by maddog34
(Post 23432225)
we know john has a freewheel.
a 13x28 8 speed. |
Originally Posted by choddo
(Post 23432267)
Missed that part of that post. Was wondering where the hell you got the tooth count from!! :D
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You guys are great, and thanks so much for your efforts! I would have written more yesterday, but the forum seems to have a limit as to how many times I can post in one day. I suppose this is also part of the limitations during my initial 10 posts. I was contacted by an administrator that I could create an "album", and add a photo there. I did so. No idea how you guys can see the photo, but I bet you know! I think once you look at the photo it will all be clear. The bearing balls lie underneath that inner threaded ring, which will not come out until I remove the outer ring with the special tool. Removing that outer ring would make the ball installation so much easier!
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Originally Posted by johnhoef
(Post 23431977)
Before I disassembled this, I had two concerns. The sprocket cluster was a bit wobbly, meaning too much play in the ball bearings.
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