![]() |
TRP Spyre Adjustment
I have the Spyre-C on my Salsa Fargo. Generally happy with them for where and how I ride.
I’m using a second wheelset for the winter and have new Sram rotors installed. When installing the wheels the pads rubbed (different hubs) so I backed out the pads by loosening the adjustment bolts on either side of the caliper. I then set them in so they just don’t rub. Hubs seem pretty straight/true. The lever is close to touching the bar when I brake. Wasn’t before. And it’s the back brake doing this, front is good. Maybe I should have loosened the barrel adjuster and not the adjustment dials? What’s the best way to reset things so I get just enough pad clearance and decent brake lever action? |
My guess is you aren't as close with one pad as you think. The barrel adjuster just moves both pads instead of doing it individually.
|
I'm inexperienced with disc's, but it appears a simple recentering of the caliper is what you need.
About the 2:30 mark- Loosen the two 5mm hex bolts slightly, squeeze brake lever & hold while retightening. |
That’s how I tried to centre the pads initially when I put on the second wheelset. I still had rub so I then adjusted each side separately until the rub on that side just stopped. I believe this is more of an issue with how much I’ve used those side adjustments vs the cable pull via barrel adjuster (I ended up playing with both as I tried to solve the lever hitting the bar, and now can’t remember all the fiddling I did).
|
Maybe the rotor is out of true?
I know this is not the answer your asked for, I had the same problem with TRP Spyres and replacing them with cable actuated hydraulic calipers (Juin Tech R1) helped a lot. Left and right pads in hydraulic calipers can extend by a slightly different amount, effectively self-adjusting for the rotor position. Also the stopping power is better. Another problem I had with TRP Spyres was the loosening of the adjusters. Applying purple Loctite instead of blue helped with this. |
My bicycle came with the Spyre brakes. I picked up my custom bicycle in march of 2014. There was a recall on them that came out March 06 2014. I ordered in TRP HY/RD brakes while I was waiting for the Spyre replacement. The front HY/RD caliper failed when I was slowing for a red light at faster than 35 mph. TRP was fast with a replacement. By the time another front caliper failed the Spyre replacements had arrived. I put on the Spyres and used them for a couple of months. The Spyres weren't as good at stopping as the HY/RDs when they were working. I replaced the Spyre calipers with Paul Klampers.
|
The Paul Klampers are nice of course, but expensive here in Canada ($350-$375 each). And our dollar stinks right now so I don’t see that coming down anytime soon.
The Spyre are perfect stopping power where and how I ride, it’s just the ease of adjustment I don’t like. and the rotors are new and true! I just need to play with them a bit more to figure it out with these wheels (last 10 months was no adjustment needed). |
Maybe you could shim one rotor a hair?
I have the Spyre also on my DIY tour bike with track ends. I just leave a big gap, it's no problem for instant stops. My adjustment screw is locked tight, like most are I think. I have a SA drum brake in front, both levers are set to grab tight at half lever pull. |
Originally Posted by GamblerGORD53
(Post 23413967)
Maybe you could shim one rotor a hair?
I have the Spyre also on my DIY tour bike with track ends. I just leave a big gap, it's no problem for instant stops. My adjustment screw is locked tight, like most are I think. I have a SA drum brake in front, both levers are set to grab tight at half lever pull. |
| All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:21 AM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.