Is this Deore XT missing a spacer?
#1
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Is this Deore XT missing a spacer?
Hello Folks . So I just received this Deore XT in the mail. To work with my 7-8 speed conversion. Question is, should there be some sort of spacer between the Derailleur and frame? Looks like it would bind in it's present condition.




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I'd be more concerned about the really worn guide pulley. Andy
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All there. The screw below the mounting bolt "b screw" catches on the step of the derailleur hanger. I'd clean and lube that one before installing it.
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the b-screw tab is about to jump the stop on the upper knuckle... you should be more worried about that than an undefined "spacer".
and i agree about that upper roller needing help/cleaned/replaced.
update: after digging out that exact model der. from my vast corporate stockpile of old shimano MTB derailleurs...... there's a black plastic dress cover missing from the b-screw plate area... it does nothing, structurally.
and i agree about that upper roller needing help/cleaned/replaced.
update: after digging out that exact model der. from my vast corporate stockpile of old shimano MTB derailleurs...... there's a black plastic dress cover missing from the b-screw plate area... it does nothing, structurally.
Last edited by maddog34; 03-20-25 at 06:35 PM.
#6
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Absolutely! The guy did say the pulleys had to be cleaned up. Think it was a little more than that. I've since dismantled the cage and found the ceramic was damaged as well have to get replacements. off ebay. Hope I can find them.
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Not missing washer. Great derailleur.
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The RD appears to be M737/739, these did not have exterior cover around the B-axle mount. Some of the slightly earlier model did (M735...).
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the b-screw tab is about to jump the stop on the upper knuckle... you should be more worried about that than an undefined "spacer".
and i agree about that upper roller needing help/cleaned/replaced.
update: after digging out that exact model der. from my vast corporate stockpile of old shimano MTB derailleurs...... there's a black plastic dress cover missing from the b-screw plate area... it does nothing, structurally.
and i agree about that upper roller needing help/cleaned/replaced.
update: after digging out that exact model der. from my vast corporate stockpile of old shimano MTB derailleurs...... there's a black plastic dress cover missing from the b-screw plate area... it does nothing, structurally.
Last edited by craft; 03-20-25 at 08:27 PM.
#11
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From: NW Oregon
Bikes: 1982 Trek 930R Custom, '91 Diamondback Ascent w/ XT, XTR updates, Fuji Team Pro CF road flyer, Specialized Sirrus Gravel Convert, '09 Comencal Meta 5.5 XC, '02 Marin MBX500, '84 Gitane Criterium bike
here's pics of a decently clean/well preserved one...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/30614107297...rchantid=51291
and when right, they work great.
NOS ones, in box, go for $200 smackers!
ours are less than NOS, eh?
and thank you for getting me to search up info on the m732... i realized that i not only have the FD and RD, but a pair of matching thumbies for them!
specs...
https://www.disraeligears.co.uk/site..._m735_sgs.html
https://www.ebay.com/itm/30614107297...rchantid=51291
and when right, they work great.

NOS ones, in box, go for $200 smackers!
ours are less than NOS, eh?

and thank you for getting me to search up info on the m732... i realized that i not only have the FD and RD, but a pair of matching thumbies for them!
specs...
https://www.disraeligears.co.uk/site..._m735_sgs.html
#12
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the b-screw tab is about to jump the stop on the upper knuckle... you should be more worried about that than an undefined "spacer".
and i agree about that upper roller needing help/cleaned/replaced.
update: after digging out that exact model der. from my vast corporate stockpile of old shimano MTB derailleurs...... there's a black plastic dress cover missing from the b-screw plate area... it does nothing, structurally.
and i agree about that upper roller needing help/cleaned/replaced.
update: after digging out that exact model der. from my vast corporate stockpile of old shimano MTB derailleurs...... there's a black plastic dress cover missing from the b-screw plate area... it does nothing, structurally.
#13
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here's pics of a decently clean/well preserved one...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/30614107297...rchantid=51291
and when right, they work great.
NOS ones, in box, go for $200 smackers!
ours are less than NOS, eh?
and thank you for getting me to search up info on the m732... i realized that i not only have the FD and RD, but a pair of matching thumbies for them!
specs...
https://www.disraeligears.co.uk/site..._m735_sgs.html
https://www.ebay.com/itm/30614107297...rchantid=51291
and when right, they work great.

NOS ones, in box, go for $200 smackers!
ours are less than NOS, eh?

and thank you for getting me to search up info on the m732... i realized that i not only have the FD and RD, but a pair of matching thumbies for them!
specs...
https://www.disraeligears.co.uk/site..._m735_sgs.html
Last edited by craft; 03-20-25 at 08:45 PM.
#14
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From: NW Oregon
Bikes: 1982 Trek 930R Custom, '91 Diamondback Ascent w/ XT, XTR updates, Fuji Team Pro CF road flyer, Specialized Sirrus Gravel Convert, '09 Comencal Meta 5.5 XC, '02 Marin MBX500, '84 Gitane Criterium bike
something to be cautious with,,, the pulley Seals.
remember how they mount in... lip out... and they can get BRITTLE if exposed to too much sun or harsh chemicals... they are not easy to find, so, even if you find fresher pulleys, SAVE the Seals!
lettering out, concave pulley is the lower pulley, angle side pulley is the top pulley.
that "cutout" is to allow install/removal of the clip.
the der. seats onto the hanger at the clip surface... you're fine.
IF that cutout was some sort of "locator" the b-screw wouldn't do anything.... and, after looking at my M732... that appears to be a different b-screw plate.. ! that may explain the b-plate stop tab not matching up with the boss on the knuckle.... the B-plate on mine is smaller diameter than the knuckle.... by about 1.5mm, all the way around. the black plastic cover i mentioned earlier is Flush with the knuckle dia.
i bet the plate got damaged and someone found a workable replacement that is, obviously, not stock.
remember how they mount in... lip out... and they can get BRITTLE if exposed to too much sun or harsh chemicals... they are not easy to find, so, even if you find fresher pulleys, SAVE the Seals!
lettering out, concave pulley is the lower pulley, angle side pulley is the top pulley.
that "cutout" is to allow install/removal of the clip.
the der. seats onto the hanger at the clip surface... you're fine.
IF that cutout was some sort of "locator" the b-screw wouldn't do anything.... and, after looking at my M732... that appears to be a different b-screw plate.. ! that may explain the b-plate stop tab not matching up with the boss on the knuckle.... the B-plate on mine is smaller diameter than the knuckle.... by about 1.5mm, all the way around. the black plastic cover i mentioned earlier is Flush with the knuckle dia.
i bet the plate got damaged and someone found a workable replacement that is, obviously, not stock.
Last edited by maddog34; 03-20-25 at 08:56 PM.
#15
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the b-screw tab is about to jump the stop on the upper knuckle... you should be more worried about that than an undefined "spacer".
and i agree about that upper roller needing help/cleaned/replaced.
update: after digging out that exact model der. from my vast corporate stockpile of old shimano MTB derailleurs...... there's a black plastic dress cover missing from the b-screw plate area... it does nothing, structurally.
and i agree about that upper roller needing help/cleaned/replaced.
update: after digging out that exact model der. from my vast corporate stockpile of old shimano MTB derailleurs...... there's a black plastic dress cover missing from the b-screw plate area... it does nothing, structurally.
#16
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Junior Member
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something to be cautious with,,, the pulley Seals.
remember how they mount in... lip out... and they can get BRITTLE if exposed to too much sun or harsh chemicals... they are not easy to find, so, even if you find fresher pulleys, SAVE the Seals!
lettering out, concave pulley is the lower pulley, angle side pulley is the top pulley.
remember how they mount in... lip out... and they can get BRITTLE if exposed to too much sun or harsh chemicals... they are not easy to find, so, even if you find fresher pulleys, SAVE the Seals!
lettering out, concave pulley is the lower pulley, angle side pulley is the top pulley.
#17
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Bikes: 1982 Trek 930R Custom, '91 Diamondback Ascent w/ XT, XTR updates, Fuji Team Pro CF road flyer, Specialized Sirrus Gravel Convert, '09 Comencal Meta 5.5 XC, '02 Marin MBX500, '84 Gitane Criterium bike
#18
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maddog34 and everyone . A serious shout-out of appreciation for the Help!! .....

Finally installed!! Hopefully I can polish off these deep scratches with a Dremel tool. I also managed to to bend over the B plate tab ever so slightly to prevent the tab from causing any additional damage to the alloy housing. Also before threading in the mounting screw I'll coat the male threads with a dab of blue Loctite both as a little added security , also seems to help protect the threads while installing. (These fine threads feel so prone to cross threading).

Finally installed!! Hopefully I can polish off these deep scratches with a Dremel tool. I also managed to to bend over the B plate tab ever so slightly to prevent the tab from causing any additional damage to the alloy housing. Also before threading in the mounting screw I'll coat the male threads with a dab of blue Loctite both as a little added security , also seems to help protect the threads while installing. (These fine threads feel so prone to cross threading).
Last edited by craft; 03-21-25 at 03:28 AM.
#20
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lube/
while overhauling be sure to remove the pivot bolt & regrease.have found that removing the B screw & using a small visegrip on the tab helps to hold the plate when removing the C clip.those scratches can be smoothed over with a small folded piece of 320 emery cloth $ water.a black sharpie on the face plate.
#21
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
When I reassemble the B pivot, after cleaning and lubing, I'll hold the pivot bolt with a 5mm hex wrench clamped in a bench vise, threaded end up.The hex wrench acts as a third hand while one slides the der over the bolt, confirm the both spring ends are seated in their holes, rotate the der so the anti rotation tab is on the correct side of the der body's nub, press the der completely on the bolt and slide the clip into the bolt's groove.
I've serviced many Shimano B pivots (likely a few dozen by now) and the job is quite easy after one gets the little tricks down. Here in the Rust Belt we see stiff/frozen B pivots routinely. Some shops will just replace the der, I prefer to clean and grease the old as a first choice. Andy
I've serviced many Shimano B pivots (likely a few dozen by now) and the job is quite easy after one gets the little tricks down. Here in the Rust Belt we see stiff/frozen B pivots routinely. Some shops will just replace the der, I prefer to clean and grease the old as a first choice. Andy
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