so... your advice is to stay away from most Peugeots, made with Carbolite 103 tubing, steel wheels, and cottered chrome steel cranks..... got it. ;) those knurled steel rims were a bad move, from the drafting table, on, eh?
for the record, i have a Peugeot PX-10 frame in the rafters, awaiting time and more parts... it's made with Reynolds 531 tubing.
i part out peugeot U0-8ish bikes regularly... their carbolite frames and steel rims go in the scrap trailer... the cracked and rotting plastic simplex ders go in the recycle bin... i rarely see a good simplex worth salvaging.
i'm glad you enjoy riding them.
peugeot MTBs are heavy, slow, and hard to sell... but the paint jobs sure look fun.

reddi wants a light bike frame.
carbolite 103 is not light, nor a decent reseller.

Thanks for the info guys! As I continue to learn from that exchange and those to come, I have to say I ran into a weird problem. The rear wheel has a funny looking freewheel..I don't have any tools that look suitable for this I have a couple of pictures below...note: that round disk on the top has two HOLES, not DIMPLES. That flat disk is 64 mm in OD and the two holes are about 52mm apart. That toothed round thing around the axle is about 24mm in OD. Flummoxed...:foo:

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4f01394a77.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...39c33e92b4.jpg

rumor has it that a Park Tool FR-4 fits/works... the spline count/size matches, but the actual splines are a slightly different shape.

Ebay search: Park Tool FR-4 Bicycle Freewheel Remover fits Splined Atom Regina Zeus Schwinn

(that's an old school Schwinn style freewheel.)

US $9.75, free shipping, from Trail This.. a highly trusted seller.

Most of the carbolite bikes came with aluminum parts (including rims) and no cotters. I had a P4, bottom of the line, and although the parts were certainly low end there wasn't much steel on the bike. I'll leave your slanderous statements about UO-8s for another day. :troll:

Thanks. Just placed an order. FYI, I was thinking of using the wheel with FW as is with a bit of cleaning, but it looks so, so, so shabby! I have to clean the insides! OCD again (by the way, there is some lettering on the FW (in the FW?) It says " Schwinn Approved: France Model F".

We used to offer cheap Rigida alloy wheels as an upgrade for some very entry-level Peugeots that came with steel rims, 2x6 friction gears, basic cotterless alloy cranks - they rode surprisingly well for such a basic bike. But I think forged ends is a minimum step up from the bike the OP is currently building, otherwise he'll just have something else pretty similar but maybe a bit more sporty.

I am still waiting for that FR-4 tool to arrive, but meanwhile I found this extremely useful video....
Just an fyi for any that might find themselves in similar soup.

Novice build Lesson 5> Hi all: Have a complication. No matter how much I try, I am not strong enough to remove the ring with two notches around the splined part. Question to you experts is: Are all same-speed freewheels interchangeable even if the cogs are slightly off? For eg, the FW in my case is 5S 14-32. On ebay, I see some 5S but have different cog sizes. Because of cost considerations - are they interchangeable? Perhaps if a few links are added to the chain? Any minor chain length issues might be taken care of by the derailleur tension mechanism...Thanks again to all.

The flat disc with the two holes is simply a chain guard, to prevent the chain from jamming between the freewheel and the dropout if/when you overshift a maladjusted rear derailleur. It has nothing to do with removing the freewheel. For that, you need the Park FR-4, Bicycle Research CT-2, VAR #407, Phil Wood, or Zeus freewheel tool. Depending on which tool you use, you may need to remove the axle locknut from the freewheel side of the hub in order to fully seat the tool.

Looks like it needs one of these https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/tools/va...ina-zeus-atom/ "Maillard Atom" style freewheel removers. Note the triangular splines, I expect appropriate tools from other manufacturers are available, it was a common fitting in the 1970s-80s.

Thanks. But my understanding was that that disc needs to come out if the bearing cup/cones are to be cleaned and greased. Am I wrong?

We'd normally just take the freewheel off the hub, clean it externally then run some oil in from the back. If the freewheel feels gritty maybe flush through with solvent before oiling. Opening it up should be possible, but you might regret it when all the bits fall out.

Noted. Thank you.

As @grumpus has already noted, usually just flushing the freewheel with solvent, blowing it dry, and running oil into the body is sufficient maintenance for most people (@pastorbobinnh excepted).

That said, your freewheel appears to be one with plastic seals to prevent debris intrusion into the freewheel body. Those can be pried off (both sides, typically) with a screwdriver blade before flushing and relubricating.

Novice build Lesson 6. Made a lot of progress...the tires are mounted, brakes, shifter and both derailleurs intalled...but when I started to put in the brake cables, discovered that the cables I bought were not compatible! I thought all brake cables would be the same. Another lesson...now I am waiting for the new cables. Here is the photo of the assembled bike as of today....from bare frame to this...feels really good! Really owe all of the commenters for all the suggestions and input and encouragement.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...aab00fb993.jpg

To all the previous commenters: FYI, I have since my last post, have disassembled and put back together another old steel bike from the early 80s - a Centurion with Tange steel.
Now that I have some exposure to how bikes work and where things go, I think I am ready to tackle my original goal of starting from a nice bare frame and fitting it up with a nice groupset. I would like to see your suggestions, if you would be so kind, for the project. I want to start with a reasonably light frame but want to stick with steel, as I hear aluminium makes for stiffer rides (and carbon is too expensive for me). Plus, I would like to stay simple as far as groupset is concerned, something around 2x6 or 2x7...more than that, I don't think I can use, based on my current experience and the available (for me) terrains for riding. I would like to keep it all under $1000. If there is another forum on this site that will help please let me know. Thanks once again.

A question to Trek experts out there...how do you think the seat post is fastened on this frame I found on eBay...I don't see a clamp nor enough seat tube for an external clamp for the seat post?
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6b003174ca.jpg

The clamp is the bolt on the seat stay (red circle below). It’s effective
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b5f9d9e0e.jpeg

Thanks! It didn't occur to me b/c that brake cable guide inlet (?) appears to be inside that. No matter, but thanks for the clarification. This frame is being offered for around 300. Thought it might be a good deal. Any opinions?

That is a common method of attaching the hanger for a cantilever brake. I use the Surly version on my cantilever equipped bikes. As for the bike, it’s a Trek 520 from around 1988. Classic(ish) steel touring bike. Not a bad price although a bit on the higher side.

Another quick question - there is another popular name brand frame for a bit less. It is a Bianchi from the 80s. Columbus steel, it says. Between the Trek 520 and Bianchi, any recommendation, if you please?

it's a nice frame, butthat price is way too high.. complete trek 520s in not good shape sell for less.
that frame appears to have some rust issues too...

if it fits, ride the Centurion for a while... it's no slouch!

the nearly bare 520 frame should be more in the $100-150 range, and not a dime more.
and make sure that seat pinch bolt isn't seized before you buy.

I agree about the price for the Trek frame.

As for building a bare frame . . . It depends on what shows up in your area. I've noticed that some brands (Torpado, I'm looking at you) show up in some areas of the continent but never, apparently, in Seattle. On the other hand being a port facing the Asian producers, we see a lot of Sekais, Takaras, Fujis, and so on. So instead of brands, I suggest you look at steels. Besides the frames built with Reynolds 531 and Columbus SL, look for the ones with Tange 1 or 2 and Ishiwata 022 and 019. And not to forget, Vitus makes excellent tubes. They all should offer you a sprightly ride worthy of your build.

Thanks both! I I am using the Centurion build currently and am pretty sure that I can feel some difference in ride (less bouncy while going over bumps and stuff) compared with the aluminum Trek 2000 bike. Will see how it goes.
And, as for building from a bare frame, I just found a Lemond (Reynolds 853) frame with carbon stem and carbon fork for about $300. And it is in my size (53-54cm). Appears to be in good shape and sounds like a good deal...Concur?

there's one online for $400, As a Complete bike...
Search: LeMond Men’s Bike, Tourmalet, Greg Lemond, Reynold 853

300 for a bare frame doesn't look so good.
the complete Zurichs and Tourmalets range from 400 to 850 on the 'bay.
rae dealls can be found below that, even.

totally agree about Steel typically riding smoother than an Aluminum frame.
some early Alu frames were even stiffer. The makers quickly learned to soften the ride.