Derailleur replacement big fail
 

Hi guys, I am getting a big headache with my new derailleur. I was told to buy a 10 speed deralleur to replace my Ultegra 6700 short cage, to run on a 34 tooth cassette. I bought a Shimano rd-m6000 to replace it. First problem was I had to pick one without an adjuster on it. Not knowing this at the time, I went and bought some inline adjusters.

I had a few gears slight adrift but I put that down to the cable route going into the shifter at the wrong angle. After much frustration I have now accepted that this derailleur is not suitable for my bike(I think). Running a 10 speed 6700 setup on a compact crank with a 34 tooth cassette. Help ...Thanks

Spec's list Max 30T largest cog. Basically, all the longer cage does is give 6T more chain wrap.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8c370f5ca6.jpg

https://bike.shimano.com/products/co...M6000-SGS.html

hmmm... you bought a cassette that won't work with your previous derailleur, then bought a wild eyed, off road, clutched, MTB der., struggled to route the cable correctly, but still can't sort things out..

At this point, i'd suggest finding a good bike mechanic to do the work next go-round, ok?

and never cut the der. cable until you KNOW the setup works.... although, in this case, the now smashed cable section will be inside the housing, if a more conventional derailleur gets installed. :innocent:

and i recall something about MTB and Road Rear der. and or cassette spacing/pull ratios possibly diverging at the 10sp. level.... which would neatly explain the "adrift" gears.... :innocent:

Here's a chart to help sort out a derailleur that will work with your 6700-10sp shifters. First thing is to find a derailleur with a 1.7 pull ratio (column "S" on the top row) and anything 8-10 speed. Anything not 1.7 will not work such as your new M6000 derailleur which has a 1.2 PR. Check if any are compatible with your largest cog size of 34t (max low) and check the other specs. Shimano kind of phased out the 1.7 PR after 10 speed with Ultegra level parts but Microshift still makes a decent quality model and listed on the chart, model R10-row 72. https://www.microshift.com/models/rd-r51m/. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...#gid=847158527

10 speed mountain does not work with 10 speed road. 9 speed mountain or 10 speed road would.

You want an RD-M592.

Will work with a Tanpan 10. However unless you specifically want an MTB derailleur w/clutch, probably best to get a compatible road derailleur.

https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...9927&width=600

Everything you said there is correct. My local bike shop said I had to invest in 600 pounds worth of 11 speed setup. A guy who recommended the derailleur had it on his bike. He fixes all the e bikes in my city. So I thought he was pretty sound for advice. I did think about if Road Bikes and Mountain bikes 10 speed cassettes had a different spacing which maybe causing the issue. Thanks

Your problem is not with your cassette spacing. Both MTB & road cassettes should be the same spacing.

It is the MTB rear derailleur that is the problem. Shimano MTB RDs for 10 speed has a different pull ratio from road RDs. It moves less per mm of cable pull. This means that the indexing will be 'off' if you try to use road shifters with a MTB RD designed for 10 or more speeds.

Here's a link that explains the basics.

Compatibility [04] Rear derailleurs | BikeGremlin US

To use larger cassettes with a road shifter, you need to get a MTB RD designed for 9 or less speeds that can handle your chosen cassette size.

Yeah the difference is not the inter-cog distance, but the different amount of cable that the road vs mtb shifters pull the cable which the mech then has to translate into the same distance movement across the cogs.

Shimano also claims some mtb rear derailleurs work with both 10 and 11 speed MTB shifters, although it's confusing because other MTB rear derailleurs are spec as only compatible with either 10 or 11 speed MTB shifters but not both. So it's not really known if 10 and 11 speed MTB rear derailleurs use the same pull ratios or not.

Be careful with the bike gremlin charts, some of them are wrong, for example they show 11 speed road and MTB cassettes having different pitch, but I can tell you that they are both identical on mine. Even the exploded diagram shows identical spacer thicknesses.

Thanks, that is very helpful, very much appreciated

Thank you for explaining that so clearly.
Like a holy grail the second link.
Will bare that brand in mind as it looks decent. Thanks again

Great help, thank you

Very helpful, thank you.

Thank you.

Thanks bud, very much appreciate the input

Would I be right in saying a medium cage would be better than a long cage as the long cage does look a bit flimsy when fully extended? I only ask this because I had one fold on me when I done a u turn whilst changing down a gear or 2. Thanks

you condemn a chart by making a false statement...?
the pull ratio mismatch is known, obvious, documented, and the result of that mismatch is why rhurbarb posted here.

and do look up "Chain Pitch" soon, ok?
all modern bicycles use a 1/2" pitch... and most of the antiques too.;)
smh.

Aye. Table shows mech ratios, not inter-cog pitch, as per previous posts.

Somebody didn't read the webpage he was referring to. Other people's kids...:rolleyes:

Next time, before leaving snarky comment, READ what the person is discussing. Or perhaps, better to remain silent...

https://bike.bikegremlin.com/3573/bi...ngs-standards/

Here's the problem:
https://i.imgur.com/MDZSPy7.png

Of course, there's this addendum, but the table is still wrong because that's clearly not the spacer width or cassette pitch.

my mistake... i forget that some bicycle folks misuse common terms in relation to whatever they think up.

and i wasn't being snarky until the "smh" related to the misused/redefine terms... the rest of my post stands, as is.

Nobody is misusing or redefining the term "pitch"; it's fine to use as a term for the distance between cogs.

The rest of your post was needlessly insulting. Nothing you said "stands as is" - you didn't clearly read his comment, and didn't understand his reference and then insulted him for no reason. In the end exposing yourself as the one deserving correction and derision. Embarrassing; we suffer so many "experts" who can't be bothered to READ, nor to take 30 seconds and check a reference before posting.

Spend less time "shaking your head" and more time READING what other people are writing, before posting.

So, what is the 11 speed spacing? I can see where those numbers came from: Total width minus one cog divided by 10. Was the total width mis-measured?

The total width and spacer thickness were mis-measured, and subsequently the cassette pitch. The latter should have been measured with a feeling gauge or gap measuring tool. Not calculated nor measured with a caliper. Bike Gremlin corrects in a comment but I don't know why the chart hasn't been updated. Getting to the correct answer requires 2 click throughs and scanning through 4 comments.

https://bike.bikegremlin.com/1232/bi.../#comment-4319

The chart should also reflect Shimano's stated spacer thickness of 2.18mm.

https://si.shimano.com/en/ev/CS-M7000-3984

https://si.shimano.com/en/ev/CS-R7000-4330

This one has a 1.7 pull with a medium cage. I am a bit confused on the spec below as it says
- Max Cog: 30-34T
- Capacity: 39T <<< confused with this bit**********??

As I am running a 34 cog on the back and now running a 52 on the crank would this be compatible?
Also the cable might have to go into the derailleur with a longer curve route. Maybe another derailleur with a sensible angle in would be the sensible option?
Thanks guys.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d032b557de.png