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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
(Post 23610781)
I use "precision oiler" bottles, like this:
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/...L._SL1066_.jpg https://www.amazon.com/Hicet-Bottles...=sr_1_4?sr=8-4 |
Originally Posted by JoeTBM
(Post 23611297)
I like the concept but ours are free from the recycle bin :D and we don't loose the cap (its hinged).
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Neither dripped nor drizzled. Wicked on with the needle oiler bottles shown or an eye dropper, and I use a 3:1 wool wax/ballistol blend.
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Originally Posted by Duragrouch
(Post 23610668)
I disagree with him saying that after drenching in oil and wiping off excess, a "membrane" is left behind. A membrane is different, something solid and thin, like a drum head or many parts of the body. What he should say is that a thin film of oil is left behind.
Second, he's drenching the chain in excess lube, ostensibly to dissolve and lift the dirt inside to be wiped off. That's fine if the lube is not expensive. If it is expensive, it would be more economical to use an on-bike chain cleaner with low cost solvent, wipe and let it dry, then relube, and I'll bet that also results in a cleaner chain before lube. On a road bike, most of the wear contaminant is extremely finely ground steel from the chain, you can easily verify this with a magnet in the cleaning solvent, it will be covered in black sludge. Those particles are what turns the lube to paste, no matter which oil lube you use, or how thin. Wax lube seems to avoid this, so either no steel particles, or they are shed into the environment. Wax lubricant does, indeed, cause wear of the chain but the mechanism is different. Wax, as a solid, blocks the infiltration of dirt into the chain. However, because of the solid nature of wax, the pressure points in the chain get less lubrication resulting in more metal on metal wear. The worn metal either falls out of the chain or is trapped in the wax with the former probably more prevalent. With oil, the pressure points aren’t starved of lubrication but the oil as it flows around the chain picks up grit from the environment which results in grinding of the chain surfaces but not through metal-on-metal wear. The removed metal remains in the oil/grit/metal bits paste which is why you can pick it up with a magnet. |
I butcher my own dinosaurs and render them in a Crockpot to create my own oil. I then submerge my chain in the fresh dino-oil, then hang the chain and allow the excess to drip off. I keep two chains so I can always have one ready to go.
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:lol:
In other news i found out what this pink lube is and it’s not wax based after all, and has controversial fluoropolymers in it so I’m passing. |
Originally Posted by JoeTBM
(Post 23610730)
The whole chain, outside surface, inside surface, left side & right side. 4 separate passes. then wipe off any excess.
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Originally Posted by Camilo
(Post 23612587)
I see. What good does it do to spread the lube on the outside? I just drip onto the rollers, which does drizzle a little on the outer and inner surfaces. I follow by wiping thoroughtly. But I don't see the point of spending that time, material and effort painting the chain like that.
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My definitive method using Squirt:
Put the Squirt bottle in a hot water bath to reduce the viscosity. Leave in for as long as it takes to wipe off the chain and/or tune in to ESPN on my basement TV. Shift the bike to cross chain in the big-big combo and drip the Squirt onto the top of each roller just before it goes over the cassette. Silca has a video showing how the links spread and allow the lube to get in there. Back pedal a few times to set the stuff in there and run it through the gears. If it has been a while, or has been noisy, repeat but this time dripping on the other side of the chain, cross chaining small-small. Squirt says don't wipe off, so I don't. Let dry overnight. Turn off TV while swearing that the whole time was just commercials and I missed the Sports Center Top Ten Plays, again. And Importantly, before turning off the light, look back and admire how great my bike looks. |
Originally Posted by MikeDeason
(Post 23609380)
When lubing the chain with wet lube, a drop on each cog or move the pedal slowly and apply a consistent drizzle. Drizzle is faster, but AI prefers drop.
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Originally Posted by dedhed
(Post 23614424)
A "COG" is a complete sprocket. A tooth is individual projections on a cog. A drop on each cog doesn't do much. Beside the fact a cog is what the chain runs on and the chain is what you're lubing.
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Originally Posted by JoeTBM
(Post 23610732)
As we service over 2,200 bikes a year. We use Mobil 1 Synthetic 5W30. We buy it by the 5-quart jug and fill small squirt bottles (Contact lens cleaner type)
Originally Posted by wheelreason
(Post 23610845)
If it wasn't for the 75w-90 guy, this would be the worst answer here.....
Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart
(Post 23610873)
Please explain your thinking... Co Ops and non profits generally can't justify expensive solutions and do so much good for so many with so little.
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I don't consider co ops and non profits "your average cyclist".
I never suggested my reply was for anyone but those who deal with large numbers of cash strapped riders and provide their services for free. Apples and oranges. Andy. |
For chains that I lube with drip-type lube rather than wax, I patiently put a drop on each side of each roller link in the chain - on the inside of the chain, not the outside.
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Originally Posted by tomato coupe
(Post 23614603)
A 5 quart bottle of automotive lubricant that meets the needs of a cash-strapped coop is not a good choice for your average cyclist. That should be fairly obvious.
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Originally Posted by wheelreason
(Post 23614715)
Apparently not. A 5 qt jug of Mobil 1 or a similar product is maybe $25-$30 if you get a good deal, maybe add a mfg coupon on it, still a lot more expensive than a synthetic lube of lower viscosity that will be far superior as a chain lube. Sure motor oil will work in a pinch, but even a 0W-20 is going to collect a lot of grit unless you apply it correctly, and wipe off all the excess. You can make a DIY drip wax lube for $30-40 per gallon if you know where to look.
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Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart
(Post 23614614)
I don't consider co ops and non profits "your average cyclist".
I never suggested my reply was for anyone but those who deal with large numbers of cash strapped riders and provide their services for free. Apples and oranges. Andy. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2012906bf.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d1a42eadd.jpeg I think this person just poured it over the bike. It covered the shifters, the wheels, the brakes, the frame…everything. Dirtiest bike I’ve ever worked on. It’s the most extreme but I’ve seen many others…including the guy who oiled his disc brakes because they were squeaking…I kid you not! |
Originally Posted by cyccommute
(Post 23615401)
Please don’t use motor oil. It leads to foolishness like this
I think this person just poured it over the bike. It covered the shifters, the wheels, the brakes, the frame…everything. Dirtiest bike I’ve ever worked on. It’s the most extreme but I’ve seen many others…including the guy who oiled his disc brakes because they were squeaking…I kid you not! People oiling disc brakes or other brakes is common enough, I wish people would do a modicum of research before doing it especially the ones that say "I don't want to spend money" yet they need new pads and rotors because Iso and fire won't work. |
Originally Posted by cyccommute
(Post 23615401)
Please don’t use motor oil. It leads to foolishness like this
I think this person just poured it over the bike. It covered the shifters, the wheels, the brakes, the frame…everything. Dirtiest bike I’ve ever worked on. It’s the most extreme but I’ve seen many others…including the guy who oiled his disc brakes because they were squeaking…I kid you not! |
Originally Posted by veganbikes
(Post 23615515)
You gotta warn someone when you post photos like that...that bike is in my nightmares. I have seen some similar bikes but I think that one takes the cake.
People oiling disc brakes or other brakes is common enough, I wish people would do a modicum of research before doing it especially the ones that say "I don't want to spend money" yet they need new pads and rotors because Iso and fire won't work. |
Originally Posted by tomato coupe
(Post 23614603)
A 5 quart bottle of automotive lubricant that meets the needs of a cash-strapped coop is not a good choice for your average cyclist. That should be fairly obvious.
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Originally Posted by veganbikes
(Post 23615515)
People oiling disc brakes or other brakes is common enough, I wish people would do a modicum of research before doing it especially the ones that say "I don't want to spend money" yet they need new pads and rotors because Iso and fire won't work. |
Originally Posted by gearbasher
(Post 23615729)
I don't want to take this thread down the rabbit hole, but... When I was on my job, a worker at my facility approached me and said the disc brakes on his car were squealing, so he sprayed them with WD-40. How do you respond to that?
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Originally Posted by gearbasher
(Post 23615729)
When I was on my job, a worker at my facility approached me and said the disc brakes on his car were squealing, so he sprayed them with WD-40. How do you respond to that?
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Originally Posted by JoeTBM
(Post 23615635)
That is not because they used motor oil, that is because they don't know how to clean their bike and obviously don't care.
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