Enclosed chain guard
 

I repair and refurbish bikes for a church bike giveaway. A bike that was donated has an enclosed chain guard and the chain has come off the large sprocket and I can't figure out how to get he guard off to replace the chain. Anybody know, does the chain guard have to come off to replace the chain on the sprocket?
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...60169f263f.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...be38d7bc08.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2ca926745f.jpg

this is why i don't want chain guards on my bikes.

you will, apparently, need to remove the drive side crank arm to get the chain back on the chainring.

there may be just barely enough room to sneak the guard off without removing anything but the DS crank arm.
slide it forward with the pedal arm pointing forward, and maybe add a bit of twist, front to rear...?

all that full coverage guard does is make it easier to ignore proper chain maintenance
best plan is to get that guard off of the bike, use tin snips or a disc grinder if needed, and hang it up as a reminder of why they are a bad idea.
if that isn't allowed, then cut enough of the backside away to make future removals possible without a few special tools.

i have seen one of these things that was two pieces, and it slid apart allowing easier removal... it was bent (possibly from a Kick or two!) just enough that it nearly DIDN'T come apart....

imagine having the chain drop off as you're dealing with a flat tire, at night, and you are a complete novice working with minimal tools and knowledge.

good luck, and walk away if you get angry.
come back an hour later.
:thumb:

Happy Thanksgiving!

Harry:

What church is it you do this bike refurbishing for?

Maybe consider praying for guidance on this matter!

Sincerely, dickee29

Back in the day (way back) the disc part of the cover was a separate piece that was a press fit, like the lid of a paint can.

It looks like there's a clip holding it to the chainstay and it's open in the back, on the inside. Remove the pedal, release the clip, and slide the whole shebang forward over the crank.

yeah that’s the way, my Bella ciao had the same guard


“proper chain maintenance” is a bizarre reversal of the truth, ie bikes without chain cases are compromised in a way that only cyclists would accept.

Have you tried wrapping a derailleur system in tin? Good mudguards help to protect the chain, but obviously IGH is the way to go if low maintenance is your goal, with belt drive or a full chaincase.

Thanks for your help, think I'll take a disc grinder to it.

I wouldn’t, tip it on its front wheel feed the chain thru, once it’s caught rotate cranks onto its back wheel etc. those porteur style chain guards are rad, they’re more about keeping the e chain clear of front wheel spray than keeping your trews clean.

People normally come here to learn about fixing bikes, but not everyone I guess.

LOL hahahahahaha Hilariously DUMB advice like I've never seen on BF.
And YOU called my post about Dyad rim nonsense.

It actually looks like it's a 3 piece cover. The face should just easily pull apart with the screws off. At the most just take the pedal off.
In 2006 I was in Chengdu for 3 weeks, so the first day I bought a similar used Flying Pidgeon kind of SS clunker.
I was smart and took my tools there in my suitcase. The second or third day the chain came off when it was rainy and getting dark.
I only had a lame crank flashlight. Found the 2 screws on the case and presto, it's off. 1 kind person did come to offer help.
The problem with those bikes is all the attachments to the axle and a weak nut never stays tight. Fender struts and rack, some have foot pegs and wrap around kickstands.
And yah, the rod fake brakes will stop you in 20 or 30 feet from 10 mph. LOL

here's the text of my Attempt to translate that post... replying to a request for translation...

"meh.. i'll try... he's saying that double butted spokes are not as good as a straight gauge spoke, and that since he ruined a rim, he knows more than people that work on bikes every day of their lives.
and his rubber weighs 4lbs, i think
oh, and he knows how to use a scale, and thinks eyelets in rims weaken them, because his rim doesn't have them.
(their aero contour excludes eyelet use, btw)

did i miss any high points?
too bad, i won't read those self-glorifying posts ever again. "

not seeing the word "nonsense" in my post.
here's the post you think you're defending..

" My Velocity DYAD wall cracked because of Grim scratch bakes. So I torture tested it.
This was on my Rohloff14 wheel. I already knew the brake track was deeply scratched on the first tour, by weak caliper GRIM brake pads, with frozen mud in China. Somehow I never fixed it till now. I didn't get my disc mount welded on till I got to Seattle on my second tour.
This September I was on a 92 mile ride when I was hearing crick crick crick all day. So then I put this wheel on my other bike, another 87 miles with it doing the same crick crick. At first I was dumbly thinking the Rohloff had dirt inside rubbing. I took it apart and it did have a sticky black soot coating in there from the oil.
So I finally got a new DYAD rim with new straight 14g DT Swiss spokes, Sapim polyax 14 mm nipples and new SMP 38 mm tires. It was awesome on a ride in my parkade last night. LOL

>>> So of course today I sawed up the rim to examine. I figure that it had at least a 7" crack thru where the top V joins the top of inner cross wall. The tire holding U box section is all intact, so that's why it didn't asplode while I rode those 300 miles. As I was sawing, a lot more around the rim cracked apart. It still didn't deter me from getting another DYAD at all.
So then I started crushing the pieces in the vise and inspecting the spoke holes. ZERO had even a micro crack inside or out. I thought the nipples would have settled into the alu, but hardly any of that apparent. The metal I measured is about 2.8 mm at the hole. I crushed one section both from the sides and top to bottom. Still could NOT make the V top crack of any sort.

>>> BF LBS "experts" have said for years that more metal at the top is not stronger. Obviously this is 99% BALONEY.
Nearly every cracked rim at the holes had STUPID eyelets, that have a hole drilled at least a mm bigger. One of the biggest FARCES in the bike world.
My bike was 120 lbs on tour, like I've said a hundred times. My new wheel is 6.4 lbs without rubber, about 2.5 lbs
So go ahead, let's see anybody praise their fricking 60g lighter MAVIC rims. LOL hahahahaha
Also there was seeped in dirt all inside the top of the rim.
PICS >>>>"

here's hoping you never grim your baked dyads again.
kudos for baking from scratch. :thumb:
umm.. what is the "top" of a rim, anyway?
and how did your rear hub catch fire? soot results only from fire...
just curious.

sadly, at this rate...i see red buttons in your future.

Lol

Now Grumpus, bear with us Please

if you do remove that chainguard stick it on ebay as a vintage porteur like rene herse etc, i reckon you could get 30 or so for it. if it was in england i'd buy it

As simple as opening a can of paint! If you don't succeed at first, get a bigger pry bar, don't be afraid about using force here, this is not some delicate tweeking situation, if all else fails break out the hacksaw.