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STI brifter question
I have a question about brifter shifting function? Not simply mounting and adjusting the shifting. More like making internal adjustment to the shifting mechanism. All of my bikes are older with downtube index shifters. I have ridden enough rental bikes with STI, but I’ve never worked on them. I bought a used bike a couple weeks ago (older Specialized Allez). It has 2x9 speed with Shimano 105 “Flight Deck” brifters. Mostly, the shifting works. But the rear (Right side) shifter has a bit of an issue. When I push the shifting lever to the LEFT to upshift (to a smaller gear), the lever moves freely, but once it engages I have to push rather hard for the final “click” for the shift. Much harder than on other bikes I’ve used with STI. I’m wondering if there is an adjustment internally that can correct that. — Dan
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Originally Posted by _ForceD_
(Post 23680942)
I have a question about brifter shifting function? Not simply mounting and adjusting the shifting. More like making internal adjustment to the shifting mechanism. All of my bikes are older with downtube index shifters. I have ridden enough rental bikes with STI, but I’ve never worked on them. I bought a used bike a couple weeks ago (older Specialized Allez). It has 2x9 speed with Shimano 105 “Flight Deck” brifters. Mostly, the shifting works. But the rear (Right side) shifter has a bit of an issue. When I push the shifting lever to the LEFT to upshift (to a smaller gear), the lever moves freely, but once it engages I have to push rather hard for the final “click” for the shift. Much harder than on other bikes I’ve used with STI. I’m wondering if there is an adjustment internally that can correct that. — Dan
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
(Post 23680967)
No there isn’t internal adjustment for STI. I suspect you may have a cable issue, however. Shift down the lowest gear and upshift without pedaling. This will put a lot of slack in the cable which will allow you to remove the cable housing from the stops so that you can inspect the cable. Look for corrosion or for kinks in the inner cable. While you have the cable loose, spread a little bit of grease on the inner cable to help everything move more freely.
good shifting needs minimal cable friction, so replacing housing not a bad idea either beyond cabling, good derailer hanger alignment is also key |
Thanks for the suggestions. Both make sense. I’ll dig into when time allows and report back.
Dan |
Is it any smaller gear on the rear that you have this issue when shifting. Or is it a particular sprocket. If it's only the smallest ratio sprocket on the rear that has the most teeth, then possibly the low limit might need adjusting.
But I'd still check and recheck the cables and housings to make sure they are not the cause. Which they are most of the time for many shifting issues, IMO. |
Independent of why the lever gets hard to swing at a point is that these levers are old enough to have had their factory lube dry up. I suggest doing the "flush and lube" service on them to help prevent the common pawl gets sticky on pivot issue these levers are so well known for.
If you do this servicing and the fresh lube gets to the lever's internals you might also find some of the friction you feel in the lever at that certain point is lessened too. I find it far easier to remove the lever/shift pod unit from the lever bodies (which Shimano calls "brackets" IIRC) and these Flight Decked type will have a ribbon wire running from the lever pod to the body (and thus to buttons and head unit). While the ribbon can be retained few use Flight Deck heads any more, do you? If not than just cut the ribbon close to the shift pod and body. I also like to use compressed air during the flushing and relubing. Andy. |
Maybe you need to adjust the derailleur stop a half turn.
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All above have excellent suggestions and should do.
What has worked for me is spraying the shifter with A LOT of WD 40 and working the gears on a bike stand. I put a towel down on the ground to catch the WD 40. The shifters probably have not been used in some time. I do this about 3 times and has worked for me. I have also put in new cables and housing when needed which is about 40 % of the time make sure you lube after the WD 40 flush with some light grease |
Originally Posted by cyccommute
(Post 23680967)
No there isn’t internal adjustment for STI. I suspect you may have a cable issue, however. Shift down the lowest gear and upshift without pedaling. This will put a lot of slack in the cable which will allow you to remove the cable housing from the stops so that you can inspect the cable. Look for corrosion or for kinks in the inner cable. While you have the cable loose, spread a little bit of grease on the inner cable to help everything move more freely.
Originally Posted by bikemike73
(Post 23681232)
What has worked for me is spraying the shifter with A LOT of WD 40 and working the gears on a bike stand.
I was doing the first suggestion, and as I was doing it I thought “Well, the cable moves freely and easily when shifting in the other direction. So it isn’t impinged.” But I checked it anyway and it does move freely. So I sprayed some liberal amounts of lube into the level mechanism right before I went for a ride. At first there wasn’t any difference. But as I got several more miles into the ride it gradually got easier to shift. I guess the lube just had to work its way into all the little places. Anyway…it seems to be shifting normally now. Thanks for the suggestions. Dan |
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