Bottom bracket and crankset selection help?
 

Going to pick up a Litespeed Tuscany this weekend that’s missing the drivetrain. I’ll need a BB, cranks, rings, and cassette. I’m fairly sure it has a BSA BB. As I understand, there are two components here that will lock me into a standard: spindle type (square, spline, etc), and chainring mount (4 or 5 bolt, probably more complicated than that). What standards would yall prefer?

Ive done a good bit of reading about this, but there are so many variants out there that I have to fight an aneurism after a while. I want to get a tad educated before going to the shop.

A bonus question that will open the wormiest can of worms… What level of stuff do you think this frame deserves? Balancing price/performance/resell factors?

What sort of drivetrain are you running? If it were me I would get a nice Shimano HTII Crank and a Wheels MFG bottom bracket that is compatible and have a good reliable set up. If you love the frame go as wild as you want if you don't stick with something decent but in the lower tiers .
I don't worry about resell because I don't buy bikes to resell I buy bikes to ride and build them up the way I want them and if I decide to sell them I sell them as is or pull off parts and deal with it in that moment. People who set up their bikes to resell probably shouldn't own that bike in the first place because they are not setting it up for themselves but some unknown person who may come along.

If it's a BSA threaded BB with a 68mm bb shell. I'd go with a 2 piece crankset. Most likely Shimano Ultegra will be my choice. Square taper is a little long in the tooth and old stuff. And I'd get all new or NOS stuff for the frame whether the frame is new or not. And I'd probably do Di2.

This is a frame from the early 2000's isn't it? Unless you want it to be a period correct museum piece, it matters not whether it's a 4 or 5 bolt crank spider.

I'd build the frame out for me. I don't care about resale. I tend to give away or sell my old stuff for a pittance. I'm happy that someone else will get use of them. It's not a investment to make money from.

Ultegra HT2 crank, and the rest Ultegra also.
not too spendy, easy to find parts, excellent quality, etc.
personally, i'd go with cables instead of electronic shifting and hyd. brakes, too.
Update... i'm sensing a definite trend in suggestions here :)

Yep there’s definitely a trend that’s both surprising and expected. Everyone jumped straight to level 6 out of 7 in the lineup. That’s not what quite what I expected when seeing Cues and Claris on $2000 new bikes. This is something I’ve asked about before in another thread actually.

For reference, this is my first foray into a drop bar bike. I figure a couple hundred more for a titanium bike is worth it over an equally aged Trek 1000. The used bike market is so weird when you’re… I would say educated but that doesn’t quite fit yet… maybe enthused.

Litespeed Tuscany sounds like a nice Ti frameset. I second the others to not worry about resale. Shimano used and new seems to have good bang for the buck. Sad that Campagnolo seems to be going away. I already have a Shimano Ultrgra 9-speed groupset that I would slap on it without a problem. Use whatever you like. If its hilly where you are, then try out a compact crankset (34-50 or something close to that). Sram is also has nice groupsets if you come across them.

almost certainly a standard BSA BB - pretty much any standard BSA BB and corresponding crankset will fit. The number of bolts doesn’t matter. I have ´98 and ‘00 Litespeeds - both BSA. The Tuscany is midrange - one level up from entry-level. 105 or Ultegra would be appropriate, but there are no rules - whatever fits is good

If you see Claris on a 2k bike run from that bike and I do mean run, that thing is way overpriced crap. I certainly wouldn't go below 105 on a nicer bike and if I was desperate I would say Tiagra has certainly gotten a little better but honestly 105 works well lasts a long time and is a great value for money.

Ultegra might be 6/7 but it’s a relative bargain in 11sp mechanical R8000 guise at the moment

Doubt that frame is getting hydro discs and Di2 internal routing so you can’t have 12sp Ultegra anyway but could consider 12sp 105 R7100 (about the same price as 11sp Ultegra here)

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806041346134.html
Or something similar. I assumed disc brakes. You'll want the BBR60 bottom bracket for a BSC frame.

I might be wrong, so someone might have to straighten me out. Your Tuscany frame is a road bike frame. Shimano CUE's that you mention is not a road group. It's a group Shimano came up with to try to address the bikes that aren't sure what they are. They aren't a MTB but they also aren't a road bike.

If you are looking for a lower cost than Ultegra or the newer 105 12 and 11 speed groups, then Tiagra 4700 10 speed will be a good choice.

If you are intending to make this a flat bar bike, then that will alter most every reply made already.

I just mentioned cues cause I’m most familiar with that side of the market. I’m currently leaning toward a 105 crank. Ultegra seems to gain little for the price. That and a cassette will get it back on the road.

Sticking with the existing 2x setup would certainly be easiest… stepping up to 1x10/11/12 would require a new deraileur, shifter, and hub. I might just save that for later.

Why not pick the crank to match the group you choose for the rest of the drive train? If you are going to mix and match components from different groups, then you might run into issue or have less than optimum performance. And even within the same group name, you need to somewhat stay in the same series. Especially if you don't know the things that will work well together or the things that can bite you.

The crank itself is not going make your bike better or faster.

This bike has no BB, crank, or cassette. I was under the impression that as long as all the parts are of the same standard (shifting increments, chain type, etc) it’ll work fine. Is that not the case?

I'd never bet on it.

My main issue is you seem to be focused on the crank only. And the name of a group. Shimano 105 has been around for a long time in many different versions. Earlier 105 cranks for lesser numbers of sprockets on the rear may not play well with components made for 11 or 12 speed groups. They might still work. But maybe not work at the peak performance they would have when all components are from the same series and same version.

I'd start off by choosing whether you do or don't want electronic shifting. Then whether or not the bike frame has mounts for disc brakes. Then how many speeds you want on the rear. Then choose a group that best matches what you want. Not just a crank.

Disc brakes on road bikes have become a standard for newer higher to mid level component groups. And most better wheel sets are now only designed for disc brakes. So you might already have some challenges, depending on what your goal is.

yes lol. I’m focused on the crank cause it’s missing. I’m not touching brakes, not doing electronic shifting, and plan to stick with the deraileurs already present. I just need a bb, crankset, and cassette. Or are you saying that I need to replace everything since compatibility is suspect?
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c7159e7bb.jpeg

Do you have more info on what the parts present are? Or better pictures that would help ID them?

That would help to determine what your best options are.

no, going to look this weekend. I guess for now I got all the info I was looking for. Just general sentiment at what groups folks lean toward.

Well that picture gives a totally new context to what you might be wanting to do. Initially I thought you only had a bike frame. Which I'd build out with a more modern 11 or even 12 speed group.

For starters, are you wanting to keep the existing components? Do they seem in good condition?

To pick a crank, it'd help to know what RD that is. Not just the name of the series but the actual part number. If Shimano, that likely is stamped on the back side of the parallelogram. Or at lest how many sprockets are on the rear. And you have confirmed that's a 2x front shifter? It'd be better to pull up the hood and get the part number off the body of the STI or multifunction lever if another brand.

Looks like a 105 FC-5700 (10 speed) crankset in silver would be the matching crankset for that group, should be easy enough to find one NOS or used. I can't tell from the picture but that looks like the short cage RD so you will need to be mindful of the largest cassette cog restriction for the derailleur (going off of memory but if it is short cage you should be able to fit a 28t or maybe 30t largest cog).

That's a nice bike and deserves a crankset matching the rest of the components and optimized for the appropriate chain width. If in doubt, when you go to see it, count how many clicks you get from the right shift lever or get the part numbers off of the existing shifters and derailleurs so you can identify what generation of 105 you are looking at (if memory serves an "SS" rear derailleur is short cage and "GS" is long cage), but to my admittedly older eyes that looks like 5700/10 speed.

OK, look like the shifter may be Shimano 10 speed era, maybe 105/Ultegra. If the other parts are similar, many 10 speed options are available to complete the drivetrain. Either used, or new, as Shimano still have some 10 speed parts available.

If the shifters work, 'building around' it would make sense. Same idea with the present wheel/freehub.

Rear Derailleur is SHORT Cage, so best to use a cassette at or below 28t 1st gear... any larger may be too much for that der.

front der. looks like a 2x... short cage... so a triple won't work.

if the chain on the bike isn't made for 10 sp. use, it will need to be replaced... and it may be too short too, depending on what it was cut for, originally.

a Compact 50t-34t 2x 10sp. hollowtech 2 crankset would be a great choice, pending the MODEL NUMBER of that Rear Derailleur, And the shifters' part numbers.
9 clicks equals TEN speed Right shifter....
maintain cable tension while shifting the shifter, or the cable can become ugly, fast.

Getting back to the CUES that you mentioned. I took a look at them and all the 2x cranks seem to be for 47 - 48.8mm chain lines. So for bikes with much wider rear spacing than that frame likely has.

43.5mm will be a more reasonable chain line for 10 speed cranks on a road bike from that time and even many today. 45mm if a 3x.

Another vote for Ultegra crankset and BB.
The FSA Gossomer Pro are OK too .Aluminium, 105 level IMO, and bigger OD crankshaft so they use the BB386EVO bottom bracket. About $150.

Everything looked good and I picked it up. It’s a 3x9, Rear deraileur is Ultegra RD-6600, front derailleur is ultegra FD-6700, brifters are Ultegra FlightDeck ST-6700 in need of a good cleaning. Other stuff is DuraAce dual pivot calipers, Sun Ringle Equalizer 21rims, PowerTap hubs. I measure the rims at 21mm outside (brake surface) and 16mm inside (where the bead seats).
edit: I came up with 3x9 just by counting clicks on the shifters.
another edit: rear deraileur certainly looks like a short cage to me. it's 49mm between the sprocket axles.