Help with Sora brake lever
 

I have a Sora R3000 brake lever that I can't seem to figure out. This is what I've done. The barrel adjuster is screwed all the way in. I've pulled the cable taut and secured it with the pinch bolt. I've cleaned the lever arm on the caliper. I've checked to make sure the cable isn't getting stuck or pinched when running through the housing/frame. After I've done all this when I pull the lever it feels fine at first but then I hear click at the lever like something didn't engage and it becomes loose.

It sounds like maybe improper housing length could be a problem or things aren't properly tightened.

The Sora lever has two positions for the cable attachment; one for short-pull brakes and one for long-pull brakes.
It sounds as if you start out with the cable in the right position, and when you pull the lever, the cable slips to the position with more slack.
There is a plastic piece, secured by a small screw, which keeps the cable in the proper place. Is it possible that your lever is missing this piece (see image below)?

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...30a6c9226c.jpg
This is a brand-new Sora lever, waiting to be installed on a folding bike I'm building up.


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...241654d16e.jpg
Here's the pivot, with the cable attachment point in the "short-pull" position. Note the small screw under a stamped letter "V". It holds in a piece of plastic that fills the slot between the two positions.


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8d2430926c.jpg
Instructions for the Sora levers.

Hope this helps!

Hi sweeks, my brake lever is a road bike lever.

You said yours was a "Sora R3000". If the one I showed (see the second image) isn't this, then I am completely mystified.
These levers can be used on bikes other than folding bikes. In any case, if the piece blocking the slot is missing, that is a plausible explanation for your problem.

Here are some more images that may make this more clear:

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b61391c295.jpg
Here is the lever with the piece that allows adjustment removed (circled in green). If the slot (circled in red) is *open*, as shown here, this may be your problem.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5e2c6a341b.jpg
For what it's worth, here is another SORA brake lever on a *Road Bike*. :-)

I can’t post links as I need 10 posts. My brake lever is a brake/shifter combo that goes on a drop bar. Your brake lever is completely different than mine and is for a flat bar.

This is a sora r3000 sti lever.ST-R3000 vs BL-R3000. Good old Shimano.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e9ceb5516.jpeg

Page 12 of this seems pretty straightforward. Not a lot to get wrong.

OK, I was confused by the number. :innocent:

First thing I think of is not fully seating the cable's head in the lever's fitting.
Next up is not having the casing fully seated in the various stops, ferules and adjuster barrels.

When the problem happens is the cable head still as engaged in the lever's fitting as before? Are you sure, take a photo of the before arrangement to compare if you're not sure.
Make sure the problem isn't elsewhere. Rim brake pads when not properly centered on the rim's brake track can develop a unworn "ridge" which can hinder pad/rim engagement.

So, after the problem happens and you go back to the cable and anchor bolt, do a retightening of the cable (loosen the anchor bolt, pull the "slipped" amount of cable further through the bolt and retighten it) what happens?

I suspect this is a very basic and simple issue that we can't see from long distance and you can't up close. Andy

This is a good example of why we should include all the information when asking questions. sweeks assumed you meant BL-R3000 because you said "R3000 brake lever" but you actually meant ST-R3000 which would commonly be referred to as a brifter (I know some dislike this term, but it's convenient shorthand). The official Shimano term is STI lever (Shimano Total Integration).

‘Road bike lever’. I included the information I’m not sure what the point of your post is and why others understood my post but you and the other guy are confused.

You can have flat bar road bikes too though (although I wouldn’t use the term) and they both use levers. Thanks to shimano using the same
series name for 2 quite different products it is a bit ambiguous.

I understood you intuitively because I had never seen a Sora flat bar lever. :)

Have you checked the cable end seating in the shifter and all the housing end points?

I understood after the flat bar was posted AND then you mentioned road that it was STI, but not before then.
The first pictures were flat bar road levers as SORA is a "road group". Always best to put any Shimano model numbers and/or pictures in a post. Shiano is actually pretty good about model naming and marking.

How is the housing where it meets the lever? I’ve seen something like this happen when someone installs a cable, then tapes the housing to the handlebar before seating the ferrules and housing fully, leaving a gap between housing and lever when in tension.

No mention of "road bike" in your original post, and it's a vague term anyway - traditionalists may understand it to mean a race bike (and not a track bike) but many others will understand it to mean simply "not a mountain bike". Hybrids with slicks are road bikes, folders are road bikes, my recumbent is a road bike ...

Sora was a road group for most of its existence. A newbie posts looking for help and gets 15 posts about how he asked the question wrong. You guys are NOT helpful.


Shimano road levers have a floating cable stop in them so you can get the cable in despite the shifting mechanism that would otherwise be in the way. Once the cable is in you need to confirm that this barbell shaped piece is horizontal and seated correctly.


Otherwise, is the housing seated correctly on the other side of the lever?

Did you not read the original post, there was no mention of road anything just a Sora brake lever. If I were thinking of a brake lever of that era it would be a brake lever not an STI lever or "brifter" as some people call it. Plus the OP mentions a barrel adjuster which is not present on that era of Sora STI levers but is present on the brake levers for flat bars which is why the comments were given. We are not all magical mind readers and cannot see things that aren't there and so we go with the information given.

However the rest of your advice is fine and it would have made sense to just lead with that.

Did you not read the OP, clearly written by someone who doesn't know all the lingo? Someone new to the forum? Someone who doesn't need to be made to feel stupid because he didn't ask the question just right?

"Hey, is this a drop by shifter/lever or something else?" That's how you help someone.

If my 2 posts out of those 15 came across as telling the OP they were naming things wrongly, then I apologise, they were intended to do the opposite and explain why the replies had misinterpreted.

I did and it didn't mention anything about a road bike so why assume that or have a need to ask questions when the info is right there. From looking over the comments people were trying to help. I don't feel like anyone is making the OP feel stupid, they were just explaining the differences in text which has no emotion and people like to add it which leads us to this.

You want to help people your way go for it nobody is stopping you and you generally give some great info but no need to attack people over the way they are doing it.

I didn't attack people. I pointed out that the people are being a little rude, which you seem to think is even more rude.

Saying "You guys are NOT helpful" is not helpful and quite rude. I think everyone was being helpful but we went off the information given and didn't make wild assumption,s which in the end turned out to be true, but could not easily be gleaned from the first post for the reasons mentioned in my previous post.

I have re-read thatf first post a few times now and I still think of the Sora Brake Lever not the STI Lever. It is not unhelpful to help someone using that information. Yes it turned out to be the wrong lever but there was zero indication of that from the get go but the help given was pretty useful for that info.

Helping people is great go for it, there are frequent times when it is great info but don't feel the need to be high and mighty going well you all helped them wrong and you should have helped like this. That is where the issues arise just provide your help and if someone is really doing harm then address it but people giving useful info is not unhelpful.

Again, helping people is not weighing down a thread by blaming them for not asking the question correctly. It isn't a big deal that anyone got it wrong, but number of posts dedicated to telling the OP, who has less than 10 posts, how he screwed up is such a ridiculous turn off it would be shocking if the OP sticks around.

So I don't know why you want to defend turning requests for help into criticism, but it is stupid. Even when it was 100% clear what was being discussed, no one gave much help. This is the same basic STI lever Shimano has made for 30 years.

At worst it was Grumpus saying something and what I read wasn't that bad if at all. My issue is instead of just helping which you are so intent on it is the need to point out the slightest thing that could be construed as negative. This is the internet if your skin is so thin that the slightest breeze might take it off then it is not a good place for someone to be.

It is not the same lever they have made for 30 years but close enough. They have made quite a few refinements over the years. Sora used to have a thumb lever which they haven't in quite a while also you had an externally routed cable which they stopped doing (except maybe tourney if they still make those Tourney STIs).