How to choose the right solid axle?
 

I want to convert my Raleigh Talus 2 with cone bearings to a solid rear axle so I can use pegs. What information/dimensions do I need to purchase the right axle?

It currently has a quick release also called a skewer though the axle currently. Doesn't it? Just replace that hollow axle with a solid threaded axel of the same diameter in a length and that will stick out both side far enough for the proper installation of the pegs.

You do know how to put all the cones and bearings back in the hub properly. And adjust them... I'd hope.

With a 10 mm axle, I wouldn't be standing on the peg. You probably shouldn't buy cheap 10 mm axles either. Pay for the better ones that are likely made from better steel and better processes to make them stronger.

[QUOTE=Iride01;23713340]It currently has a quick release also called a skewer though the axle currently. Doesn't it? Just replace that hollow axle with a solid threaded axel of the same diameter in a length and that will stick out both side far enough for the proper installation of the pegs.

You do know how to put all the cones and bearings back in the hub properly. And adjust them... I'd hope.

Cool, on the internet I see all sorts of weird ones with collars and raised parts, are those just ones that come with cones or are meant for other bearings? I am pretty new, I know a decent bit, but my dad is great at this kind of thing.

Probably M10×1.0 and about 180 mm long. But I wouldn't risk it - there's a reason BMX uses 14 mm axles.

Don’t risk using pegs or a cheap axle? I am a kid, thus lighter.

The bike is one of those slightly above the department store bikes and not designed for pegs or loaded riding and even a stronger 10mm axle I wouldn't trust for holding any weight or tricks or anything of that sort. They make BMX bikes or they have bikes built to hold people on the bike this is one I would use for just riding around once in a while.

Your Raleigh is a hard-tail mountain bike. And somewhat heavy at that. If you are wanting pegs so you can do tricks and stands and what not, then get a BMX bike with 14mm axles as others have mentioned. While you might see other kids ruining their mountain bikes with such, you could be the exception and get a bike made more for the purpose.

you'll need a Decent Chrome Moly Axle SET, with the outer nuts, Cones and Jam nuts... the threads are almost always different from QR axles. ;)
the overall length will need to be about 175mm to allow use of the shin denter stunt pegs.
135 + dropout thickness + outer nuts + those shin denters....
consider whether the hub is a freewheel or freehub design.
and any dust covers pressed into the hub or pressed onto the cones too... they must be used, or you will ruin your hub in short order...
the outer dia. of the axle cones can vary 2mm, making some dust covers not fit, etc...

hit up "Dan's Comp BMX" online for a good quality axle, or shop amazone/ebayt for less expensive, and possibly lousy/easily bent, alternatives.

i've bought many things from Dan's Comp. over the decades... they will have what you want.
they are always happy to help customers.

I wouldn't recommend pegs on a 10mm axle, although a lighter rider might get away with it. BMX uses 14 mm axles for a reason.

When my brother and I were in middle school and high school, we had a mountain bike we would share. When we got it, it was only a few years old, a low end Trek, functionally quite similar to your bike but a step up in quality, it was at least bike shop quality rather than department store.
Anyways, we put a rack on the back of it and we would ride all around the neighborhood with a passenger sitting on that rack. The bike and rack held up well but I can't tell you the number of axles we bent on the rear wheel. My brother was the main user so he became quite good at replacing axles.

Moral of the story, you can abuse those cheaper mountain bikes but be prepared to replace bent and broken parts.

Maybe we should ask how heavy his GF is. That's why some run pegs on their MtBs, so their passenger can have a foot hold. Andy (who agrees with most of what has been said by others)

Indeed, that was very common among schoolkids back when most bikes had 10 mm axles - I wonder what they do now that thru axles are more common.

the shin denters depend on the DROPOUTS for support, more than the axles... ever noticed how incredibly thick most BMX dropouts are?
the 14mm axles are used to reduce bending from riders riding off of roofs and other crazy stuff.
unfortunately, they also reduce space for larger BEARINGS, and end up creating other weak points...

the Raleigh Talus does not have incredibly thick dropouts...a fender washer of the correct size might reduce dropout bending, and the subsequent axle bend.

BMX engineering is fraught with such things, sadly.... mostly driven by the wild stunts craze.
like a one pound steering stem on a bike that used aluminum nipples and 2x40 super-thin DB spokes to "Save weight"....