Cantilever cables
 

So im sure ima catch some flak for this l. But I cannot get my cantilevers to sit center of the wheel for the life of me. The right side seems to not move It seems every compromise I can think of makes it either makes only 1 side grab or makes the feel of the lever ******. Ive watched videos to the TEE. My best guess is the cable is fraying. To the point its starting to go thru the "A link" (best guess for a name) I tried different notches for the spring tension holes literally everything. Would the fray and old ass cables be the cause? Just looking for insight before I go back to it tomorrow. Started to rain.
Heres photos for an idea.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b8d497685d.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...28f7491f81.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4e412d81e2.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a054acc5d9.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8ed1e379f3.jpg
These last two shows that even when it is centered it only pulls one side.

Since the fraying cable is not sliding within a casing at the frayed spot the fray only is a long tern safety thing. Now if the cable had rust of damage where it did slide in the casing that would be a brake arm moving issue. The base reason why one canti won't retract back from the rim like the other side does is some thing between the two sides is not equal/balanced. One pivot having more grit/rust causing more friction. One spring being weaker than the other. One pad installed far in along the shaft and the other pad at the outer end so the geometry is off. The wheel isn't centered. One side of the straddle cable is longer than the other half. BTW these Shimano like straddle cables can be installed incorrectly (They are a safer design compared to the continuous canti end to canti end types).

I see one pad positioned near the top of the canti arm's slot and the other closer to the slot's bottom. Can you position them so the are mirrors of each other angle wise? If the pad's faces are work at an angle that won't mate with the rim you can file/grind the pad's face flatter. Andy

the brake cable CAN'T slide thru that type of yoke, under load.... the gray tube prevents it from doing so.
replace that bad cable NOW, Please... or we might be discussing crash repairs next.

check spring engagement with the boss on the fork (most have three holes to hook into... if the springs are good, then the brakes SHOULD retract evenly)
and set the brake pad posts to where the brake arms are about vertical when the brakes are engaged.

one thing i see frequently is a stuck bushing in one of the arms... some use a floating center bushing of brass.. if it sticks, then that brake will work only if the bolt is left loose....

i've seen a mashed washer cause drag on brake arms too... the washer contacts the arm, creating drag...
people get ham-fisted when tightening the allen bolt.. this can mushroom the end of the post, causing drag... you'll be able to feel the flared post end, if so.. or a check with a small file can show it too.

Do NOT apply thick grease to the posts.. it WILL CAUSE drag... it might help temporarily, but always gums things up in the long run,by attracting and holding dirt.
A light smear of light weight grease is ok, and might inhibit rust, if the bike needs to sit in the rain at times.

This is best vidio I have foung for setting up Cantiliver brakes. I would disamble the arms and follow the the vidio to reassemble.

Ditch the link wire. Go with a straddle cable. Much more adjustable.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...45edb4b5c.jpeg

Awsome, I should just take them apart and clean and reset. And yeah i went a lil ham on them only wrist tight but WRIST tight. I ride alot of mixed terrain and didnt have lock tite, ill pick up a bottle. Bolts vibrate loose like crazy on this thing if there not cranked on but I think you may be onto something because the only way I can get it close is one side is on the middle spring hole and the other is on the bottom.

I absolutely am changing that cable tbh im just riding tf outta it till winter then Ima give her a full revamp

I just want her rideable for the season also my wheel is slightly out of true. Don't get me wrong I dont need it perfect thats what over the winter is for but she is my only bike and 1st since a kid so want her decent if that makes sense

the loctite for that particular spot should be the BLUE stuff, never the red or green threadlocker type..
loctite 243 Blue.
it's not cheap.
shop around online.
it only takes a drop to work, and the threads must be clean before application.

Word, yeah im an equipment mecanic they use green on cylinder glands and boy is that fun! Standing on 10 ft pipes bouncing a pin wrench. sketch! But dude was totally right the one sides bushing is a lil shroomed out!

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ed23a3bc60.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9e5a1d0ba7.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...64b8ef6e09.jpg
The one on the left side! Which is also the side it had the frayed wire i wonder if the pervious owner had the issue aswell.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fe0a9246ca.jpg


Edit: actually after cleaning they just look like 2 different styles for some reason the one that looked damaged just also has an OD taper where the other is only a slight ID chamfer what I find interesting is its on both sides of the bushing on the OD one. Everything was gross cleaning excessively and reinstalling will update.

I'd use a file or some sandpaper to take off the bit that has mushroomed out. Aside from adding resistance, that lip can also make it very difficult to remove the arm in the future if you slap it back together without addressing it.

Thanks homie! Yeah ill clean that right up and let you know how it goes! Gotta pick up some brake clean make sure all thay old chunky grease is gone.

Ever try slide lube for applications like this where you want minimal grease? Its good stuff doesnt really stick too it aswell.