bigchris603

I have a older steel frame I want to repaint. I am currently building it up as a fixed gear. I thought that as a winter project I could repaint it. I was looking for a few tips.

I know i need to sand/ remove all the paint from the frame. Than I was thinking that I could use a coat or two of spray paint primer, and than a coat of two paint and a coat or two of clear coat.

Am I missing something or should this be about it. I know I will need to take extra care around the bottom bracket and head set.

any thoughts or sugestions will be apprecieated

Thanks
Chris

bigchris603

oops I posted this twice can a moderatior delete this one

FarHorizon

Hi Chris - you've got the right idea for a MINIMUM cost repaint. You'll probably get some runs and sags with spray cans, though - be prepared. If you want to spend money to let someone else do it, the "professionals" would sand blast the old paint off, clean, and then powder coat. I'm not sure of the cost, but it is only a question of what your time is worth and whether you want a perfect paint job or not.

phidauex

You can get a really nice paint job with rattlecans if you take your time. It won't be as good as a pro job, but good enough that no one will notice without a close inspection.

Contrary to popular belief, the difference between amateur and pro has very little to do with the paint itself. Yes, pros have better paints (most of which are too toxic for home use), but what makes the biggest difference is their prep work!

Painting only takes a few minutes, its the prep that takes time, and determines how your paint job will come out.

First off, unless the original finish is actually peeling or flaking off, don't sand or strip it off! Just clean it well, and sand it lightly with a 220-500 grit sandpaper, and dust it off with a terry cloth, that will roughen up all the surface.

Then, buy yourself a primer, a paint, and a clearcoat. I personally like Duplicolor. I use their basic primer, their basic enamels, and their clear Engine Enamel (its stronger than their regular clear). Read the backs of the cans. Seriously read them. No one does, but it really is important! If its too humid, the paint won't dry right. If you recoat outside the 'recoat window', your paint will bubble and crack. Read and follow the directions, it makes a difference.

Remember that three thin coats are better than one thick coat. Don't worry about getting complete coverage with your first coat. It won't happen, and thats OK. Just spray on a light coat, give it 20 minutes (or whatever is recommended by the can), and lay down another one. If it takes 7 coats to get complete coverage, so be it. I recommend hanging the bike up with a rope through its bottom bracket shell so you can freely rotate the bike around. Bikes don't have a lot of surface area, but they have a lot of weird curves and places for paint to miss.

If you want your paint job to be extra nice, once you are down laying down color, give the frame at least a full 24 hours, preferably a little more, and then wet sand the frame. Use a really high grit paper, like 1600 or up, and put a drop of dish detergent and some water on it, that lubricates things and keeps things more even and smooth. Don't try to remove paint, just smooth it out. Then rinse it clean, and dry it carefully. Then you can move to your clearcoat. If you don't want to wet sand, thats fine, it'll still be good.

I usually lay down at least 3 coats of clear. Make sure your last coat is a 'solid' coat, not too thick, of course, but don't just dust on the last coat, or you can get little flecks on the finish. Let it dry for at least 24 hours.

To finish, I use some automotive polishing compound on a terry cloth pad, and work it around by hand. Rub rub rub, but remember, you aren't trying to remove paint, just smooth it out. Wipe it clean with a clean cloth, and then apply an automotive wax, like Meguirs, or even cheap stuff like Turtle Wax. Buff it well, and enjoy.

If you can stand it, wait a few more days before building up the bike, enamels take a long time to cure, even if the paint seems dry, it will be most likely to chip the first few days.

Anyway, like I said, it takes time, but is worth it. I've painted quite a few frames and other things with this basic method, and it never fails to please.

peace,
sam

eyefloater

phidauex,

As I look out my window at the frameset currently drying in the sun, I can't help but think to myself that your low budget paint jobs must certainly turn out better than mine. Of course, this is a discount beater bike (aka: the get me home after partying on the weekends bike), so I'm not too concerned about going for the best quality results ever (I'm going for that delicate balance between "great to ride" and "not nice enough to get stolen"). My winter project however will be something with a lot more time and care put into it, so I'd be interested in spending the effort if the results are worth it.

Anyway, that was an awesome guide you just wrote out - do you have any photos of a finished result? I'd love to take a look.

Thanks,

- eyefloater

The Speaker Guy

The advice given sounds good. I may add

1 - set up an area in the garage where you can create a speudo dust free zone with drop cloths/plastic sheeting.

2 - Take a shower with your frame and bring the Dawn detergent. This allows you to get all the grease off. Once the frame is degreased, be careful to not transfer any back onto the frame.

3 - I did strip my frame, and have some pics here. I rushed the paintjob, but am still relatively happy with the results.

https://www.geocities.com/thespeakerguy/speedster.html

More pics at above link

donhaller 

I know this thread is a DIY, but I just wanted to add that I just got a frame back this week from Eastern Powdercoat in Maryland. It cost me $117 shiped back to me for one solid color. It turned out great. Beats the heck out of all that work. They sandblasted and prepped the entire frame and fork. Here's some pics https://www.biggrizzly.com/bikeproject/

bigchris603

Don sweeet old school bike I Think it might even be older than me . I was not planing to paint it for a few more weeks but a striped axel and a ugly fall later , I learned about the axel after the fall, I decited to paint it up this weekend. I chose a matte (sp) finish so my prep work did not have to be purfect. I think it came out pretty well. I will give it a good look over in the sun light tomarrow and do a final touch up than . I will take some picks and try to post them as soon as I can.

old bones

hey, phid "rattlecan" auex

great detailed response. I look forward to painting later this fall.

BostonFixed

Donhaller, sweet bike, and even sweeter photography. I would love to see pics of the finished bike.

The lugs would look great outlined a contrasting color.