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Paint space in Chicago

Old 10-13-05, 09:27 AM
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Paint space in Chicago

I would like to strip down my MTB and repaint it, but here's the thing: I live in Chicago and I don't have a garage. I could maybe paint in the basement, but I don't think my landlord would appreciate that. Also the fumes. So...does anyone know of someplace in Chicago where I can go to paint (and temporarily store while I let paint dry and apply layers) my bike frame? I would be willing to pay something for the space.

In case you're interested, I want to paint it black (or grey), and then use a stencil to write in the Gary Fisher, but in old english/gangsta font, in white paint, all lower case, smaller than usual, on the top tube. Also a big 'B' on the seattube, as my signature. Has anyone painted bikes with stencils you made and spraypaint? Would I have to use an airbrush? I don't think so...Ideally, it would look something like this.
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Old 10-13-05, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by bvancouv
I would like to strip down my MTB and repaint it, but here's the thing: I live in Chicago and I don't have a garage. I could maybe paint in the basement, but I don't think my landlord would appreciate that. Also the fumes. So...does anyone know of someplace in Chicago where I can go to paint (and temporarily store while I let paint dry and apply layers) my bike frame? I would be willing to pay something for the space.

In case you're interested, I want to paint it black (or grey), and then use a stencil to write in the Gary Fisher, but in old english/gangsta font, in white paint, all lower case, smaller than usual, on the top tube. Also a big 'B' on the seattube, as my signature. Has anyone painted bikes with stencils you made and spraypaint? Would I have to use an airbrush? I don't think so...Ideally, it would look something like this.
As a stencil, that font will not work. All the black space that is enclosed by white-space (ie, the letters g, a, s, e) will fall out of a stencil...if you look at the stencil letters you buy at a hardware store the "inside" of the letters are connected to the "outside." (click here for a better explination and look at part 2).
Hope it works out!
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Old 10-13-05, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by new_dharma
As a stencil, that font will not work. All the black space that is enclosed by white-space (ie, the letters g, a, s, e) will fall out of a stencil...if you look at the stencil letters you buy at a hardware store the "inside" of the letters are connected to the "outside." (click here for a better explination and look at part 2).
Hope it works out!
You are correct, as such- the fonts wouldn't work as a stencil while bombing the streets. But if I'm painting my bike, I could probably print the 'gary fisher' out on adhesive paper. Then I could cut out the letters with an exacto knife, and just save the little islands from the a and the g, for example, and stick them on the bike where they belong! They'd be adhesive.
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Old 10-13-05, 11:01 AM
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Got any friends with a garage?
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Old 10-13-05, 11:07 AM
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Paint outside. Hang the frame from a tree branch, and you have your own custom paint cabinet dealie.

Then move the frame to the basement where it is likely warmer to fully dry.
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Old 10-13-05, 11:30 AM
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that's actually what I was thinking. I would hang the frame from a 2x4 with wires, and then move the bike using the 2x4. That would make it easy to hang it outside and then inside my basement. We're so smart.
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Old 10-13-05, 01:10 PM
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Paint the whole bike white. Cut a masking tape stencil of the letters that you want, stick them on where you want them and paint the whole bike black.
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Old 10-13-05, 01:17 PM
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Do the prep work and take the frame to an auto body shop.

There's always at least one black car waiting on a repaint, so the guy doing the spraying doesn't have to do any special set-up just for your bike.

While you're at it, have the bike clear coated as well. When you get your frame back, find someone to make your decals from stick-on vinyl.
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Old 10-13-05, 01:33 PM
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If you want a ghetto job that you will regret continue con the stencil idea.

It isn't too expensive to have a sign shop to do pro looking custom decals on thin vinyl (a clear coat will be required). I was charged no more than 20 dlls for 2 sets for a similar job to yours which by the way well executed will be terriific, think cannondale bad boy.
Most sign shops will require .eps (encapsulated postscript) files of the logos, I could give you a hand with these if you don't have access to softs to produce it, should you decide to go that route.
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Old 10-13-05, 02:00 PM
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can anyone recommend a good shop in Chicago if I decide to go the pro route?

Is it really impossible to do a nice job using spray paint primer/base coat/color coat/clear coat?
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Old 10-13-05, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by bvancouv
Is it really impossible to do a nice job using spray paint primer/base coat/color coat/clear coat?
I've done many nice repaints with rattle cans. The trick is preparation, and a clean/dust-free place to spray. It also helps if you can bake the finish.

The big problem with rattle cans is that the dried paint is relatively soft -- even if you bake it. Rattle can paint jobs easily pick up nicks and scratches. The advantage of having a body shop do it, is that they are using catalyzed auto finishes that are diamond hard when cured.
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Old 10-13-05, 04:05 PM
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Is the paint soft even if you clear coat it? Are there paints I can get that are harder? Like enamel vs. laquer? You've used rattle can paint- do you just use like outdoor Krylon, or something else?

I think what I'll do is this; I'll do all the stripping and cleaning myself. I'll do all the paint myself too, but get a sign shop to make me some decals. I've found some SICK fonts with which to write Gary Fisher. (I might get sued). If it doesn't work out the way I want, I can always strip it all down and get it done pro.
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Old 10-13-05, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by bvancouv
Is the paint soft even if you clear coat it? Are there paints I can get that are harder? Like enamel vs. laquer? You've used rattle can paint- do you just use like outdoor Krylon, or something else?

I think what I'll do is this; I'll do all the stripping and cleaning myself. I'll do all the paint myself too, but get a sign shop to make me some decals. I've found some SICK fonts with which to write Gary Fisher. (I might get sued). If it doesn't work out the way I want, I can always strip it all down and get it done pro.
When I did rattle can re-paints, I used Dupli-Color for the most part.

Enamel spray paints are much tougher than lacquer. The problem with enamel is that it takes much longer to fully dry, that's why I recommend baking it.

There is only one spray paint, that I know of, that produces a really hard finish, it's only available in a limited number of colors.

http://www.rubbersetindustrial.com/?...ce_spray_paint
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Old 10-13-05, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by bvancouv
You are correct, as such- the fonts wouldn't work as a stencil while bombing the streets. But if I'm painting my bike, I could probably print the 'gary fisher' out on adhesive paper. Then I could cut out the letters with an exacto knife, and just save the little islands from the a and the g, for example, and stick them on the bike where they belong! They'd be adhesive.
A stencil is a stencil is a stencil...you're talking about a screen-printing style for the font...go for the vinyl stickers, they'll look MUCH better. Also, appliance paint in not the only epoxy spray paint available for good paint job...most of the cost of a real good paint job is the prep work involved...one of the last steps is a good wet-sand of the last color coat (1500-3000 grit paper) and then use a good quality (3M, Maguires, Martin Senour) rubbing compound/finishing compound...
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Old 10-14-05, 09:09 AM
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hmmm...rubbing compound. Can you tell me a little about what rubbing compound does?
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Old 10-14-05, 09:17 AM
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Also, you said you got the stencil made in Chicago- do you remember where?
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Old 10-14-05, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by new_dharma
Also, appliance paint in not the only epoxy spray paint available for good paint job...most of the cost of a real good paint job is the prep work involved...one of the last steps is a good wet-sand of the last color coat (1500-3000 grit paper) and then use a good quality (3M, Maguires, Martin Senour) rubbing compound/finishing compound...
Provide a link for the epoxy spray paint.

I've never used rubbing compound on air dried spray can enamels, only lacquers. Rubbing compound will ruin an air dried spray can enamel paint job.
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Old 10-14-05, 10:24 AM
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I mean decal. I looked around online, and noone seems willing to make a decal with a trademarked name, as in Gary Fisher. So I guess if anyone knows a nice sign shop in Chicago that would do it, that would be cool.
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Old 10-14-05, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by cruentus
Provide a link for the epoxy spray paint.

I've never used rubbing compound on air dried spray can enamels, only lacquers. Rubbing compound will ruin an air dried spray can enamel paint job.
not if it's fully cured (totally dry).
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Old 10-14-05, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by bvancouv
hmmm...rubbing compound. Can you tell me a little about what rubbing compound does?
after the final wet sanding with fine grade sand paper, the paint will look dull due to the very fine scratches. the rubbing compound is an abrasive substance, usually made from mineral oils, silica, water, paraffin...it removes imperfections in CURED paint. look at the 3M web site for more info.
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Old 10-17-05, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by bvancouv
I mean decal. I looked around online, and noone seems willing to make a decal with a trademarked name, as in Gary Fisher. So I guess if anyone knows a nice sign shop in Chicago that would do it, that would be cool.

Hey I PM the guy's email address, he's a graphic designer & does first quality decals out of his shop in California. Approach him casually (it's not like you are ordering 1000 sets for profit) & get a quote so both of you are happy.

OTOH I just saw these on CL:

http://chicago.craigslist.org/bik/104516283.html
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