Front Derailleur overhaul
 

My front derailleur keeps sticking. If I spray it with a lot of lube and move it around a bit it will work good for a few days. Then when I don't ride the bike on the weekend, monday morning comes around and I can't drop onto the inner chainring. Although it only has 1 year, 3200 miles, I want to try to take it apart and make sure everything is lubed. If that doesn't work I will try to see if it is the chain that is the problem. Anyone know exactly how I should do this? Should I use the standard lube/grease used on hubs on all the pivot bolts or just the pedros spray lube I use for my chain?

Front derailleurs have a pretty strong return spring and it would be unusual for one to stick. Have you checked the cable to make sure it's not hanging up in the housing?

If you are worried about binding in the Housing... I have been using this stuff..
Awesome stuff!
http://www.psndealer.com/powersports...90/53-7001.jpg
Forms a film plate that lubricates, protects and inhibits rust
Dry film never attracts dust or dirt
Ideal for use on control cables & lever pivots
4 oz. bottle w/needle
9.99

I looked over the cable and didn't see anything obvious. I also sprayed lube up into the cable housing (where the tension adjuster is on the downtube), and where the cable bends on the bottom bracket.

How can you clean out the housing? Do I need to take the entire cable out?

oh, cool, how does that work exactly?

What spec/brand is it. Sometimes asI understand it the lower end front derailleurs cause problems. These are not expensive to replace. Depending on what you have you could replace it with something of a higher spec. Does not seem to have the same effect on the rear derailleur

Brian

Here is the Lit I have found, there might be more out there if you do a search:

Dri-Slide ® (also known as bike aid), a multi-purpose lubricant made by Lilly Industries, that coats and protects better than any other commercial substance. Unlike other oil based lubri-cants, which attract harmful particulates that can cause damage, Dri-Slide goes on wet but stays on dry. Made from a naturally occurring ore similar to graphite, Dri-Slide (Molybdenum Disulfides or MoS2) is ideal for cables and other key mechanical pivot points. Avoid downtime and replacement costs, by using the first choice of professionals—Dri-Slide.
Features & Choices:

Dri-Slide is a petroleum based liquid medium that can be applied to virtually any surface needing lubrication.

Goes on wet but dries to leave a long lasting film that resists wear, water, dirt and other harmful UV elements.

Because it goes on in liquid form, Dri-Slide can penetrate deep down into the smallest spaces.

Because Dri-Slide is a dry film lubricant, it may be used in extreme environmental conditions.

Withstands pressure up to 100,000 pounds per square inch.


Dri-Slide can even help restore worn or corroded parts.

The perfect lubricant for all general and household uses.

Caution: Dri Slide can stain fabrics.


http://www.ironbraid.com/driside.html

I clean cables and housings by removing the cable. Wipe down the cable to remove any gunk on it. If it shows signs of corrosion or has any broken wires, replace it. I cleam out the housing by using a spray can of lightweight lubricant. Press the straw tight against the housing and spray. the force should blast any accumulated dirt out of the housing and leave a film of lubricant behind. Reinstall the cable and adjust the derailleur.

Usually it's the rear derailleur cable that has problems, specifically the loop next to the derailleur. But, it's worth checking the front cable before doing anything more drastic.

Once you disconnect the cable from the front der, remove the chain and operate the der by hand. It should be fairly hard to move because of the spring tension and should easily return to the inner position.

I tried releasing the cable from the derailleur and it was pretty tight (inside). This leads me to believe it is probably the cable. It is strange though, when the cable was attached and it was sticking, the cable appeared completely slack. I'm going to try taking the cable out completely and relubing as was suggested by supcom. If I sill have probs then it has to be the FD...

It sound like you need a front derailleur adjustment, not an overhaul... (how do you overhaul a front derailleur, anyways?)

try adjusting the cable at the shifter, thats all mine needed. My problem was that i couldn't get the chain to the large chain ring.
steve

I'm 98% sure it's not the adjustment. I followed the park tools instructions to a tee and it was shifting perfectly. The problem seems to occur when I don't ride over the weekend. I can feel the derailleur sticking when I try to drop to the small front ring (not going up). After spraying with lube and wiping off the cable and just pushing it back and forth for a while (pulling the chain with my hand), it will loosen up and work fine. It's going ok now, I just hope it doesn't reoccur next monday. I guess it could also be the colder weather. This weekend I will remove the cable and clean the housing. thanks for the help

You have two elements that need to be separated to be properly diagnosed:

Unattach the cable and work the shifter while pulling the cable end with your hand; you should be able to detewrmine if the cable moves freely or gets hung up.

Work the derailleur with no cable attached. For best results remove the chain, too. All you want to do is make sure it moves through its travel without any hitches.

FDs are not designed to be overhauled. A good soaking in solvent followed up with a light lube job is usually all they need unless they are worn out (which yours should not be in only one year).