Your opinion on my wheel/rim dilemma.
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I have a 26" rear wheel from my mountain bike with a Bontrager Maverick rim and Deore LX hub. It is less than one year old. Anyway, I somehow created a slight bulge (less than 1/6") in the rim sidewall that has led to two bike shops telling me that the rim is not repairable. From what I understand it would cost about $80 to have a comparable rim laced to the damaged wheel. Is that really worth it? I could buy a whole new wheel (edit) at that cost but it would not be quite the same quality. What would you do? Keep in mind I have almost no experience truing/building wheels nor do I own a truing stand or other truing tools other than a spoke wrench.
Last edited by reich17; 10-24-05 at 07:09 AM.
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Originally Posted by reich17
I have a 26" rear wheel from my mountain bike with a Bontrager Maverick rim and Deore LX hub. It is less than one year old. Anyway, I somehow created a slight bulge (less than 1/6") in the rim sidewall that has led to two bike shops telling me that the rim is not repairable. From what I understand it would cost about $80 to have a comparable rim laced to the damaged wheel. Is that really worth it? I could buy a whole new rim at that cost but it would not be quite the same quality. What would you do? Keep in mind I have almost no experience truing/building wheels nor do I own a truing stand or other truing tools other than a spoke wrench.
#3
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I'd have a go at truing it if I were you. I just did it in fact! I put my wheel out badly while messing around jumping and pulling twisty endos on my MTB. It would just turn but was unridable. Anyway, I managed to true it to a reasonable level and although the wheel is shot, they're only my old set anyway so I'm not too bothered.
What you have to watch is how much you're pulling the rim to be oval, that's what I had to do and then pull the rest of the rim in from around the bulge. Don't be ripped off man, at least have a go first.
What you have to watch is how much you're pulling the rim to be oval, that's what I had to do and then pull the rest of the rim in from around the bulge. Don't be ripped off man, at least have a go first.
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Originally Posted by Matt Gaunt
I'd have a go at truing it if I were you. I just did it in fact! I put my wheel out badly while messing around jumping and pulling twisty endos on my MTB. It would just turn but was unridable. Anyway, I managed to true it to a reasonable level and although the wheel is shot, they're only my old set anyway so I'm not too bothered.
What you have to watch is how much you're pulling the rim to be oval, that's what I had to do and then pull the rest of the rim in from around the bulge. Don't be ripped off man, at least have a go first.
What you have to watch is how much you're pulling the rim to be oval, that's what I had to do and then pull the rest of the rim in from around the bulge. Don't be ripped off man, at least have a go first.
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Originally Posted by motorhommmer
I assume you mean that you could buy a whole new wheel at that cost, not a whole new rim. How many miles are on the hub are they onroad or offroad miles ?
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You can try taking a hammer to it (very carefully!!!), but be prepared to have it break. I've been told that it can work to use a block held against the rim, which you hammer. I tried to unbend a rim once with a brake toe-in tool. Sad results. One of the few good things about steel rims is that this process works quite a bit better.
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I would try truing it to get it close, and see how it rides. If it is totally unaceptable, clip it and build a new one. Well, check the cups, but less than a year old its probably okay.
If it is marginally acceptable, you could use it as a backup/winter or beater wheel, and get a new wheel or a whole new wheelset. I'm sure a lot of us have had some hideously out of true rims on beater bikes.
I'd still recommend handlaced wheels from a good wheel builder over factoryspun.
If it is marginally acceptable, you could use it as a backup/winter or beater wheel, and get a new wheel or a whole new wheelset. I'm sure a lot of us have had some hideously out of true rims on beater bikes.
I'd still recommend handlaced wheels from a good wheel builder over factoryspun.