Whats the best stuff to use to prevent rust on bike parts (exposed cables, cable fittings, small steel components, etc.).

WD40? Armorall? Motor oil?

And how often should everything be wiped down, assuming some kind of protectant is used? I usually ride near the ocean, so the bike is somewhat exposed to salt air. All of my other bikes look like crap, but I'd like to keep my new bike looking good.

For a carbon fiber frame, is car wax recommended?

Any type of petroleum based lube on all non-painted surfaces. WD40 or similar spray is the easiest.

Keep a vat of cheap olive oil on hand to dip it it. ;) :D Will lube your chain,and bearings and do wonders for the saddle too. That sheeet seems to be good for most everything,but is said to work best on Italian stuff. ;) ;)

Olive oil is NOT the proper lubricating oil for ANYTHING on a bicycle. It's better than nothing but that's about it.

EDIT: I didn't notice when I replyed that it was Sydney that made the olive oil comments. :roflmao: Clearly he was joking...and I didn't recognize it. :(

To protect parts from rust, keep them clean and free from salt from sweat. A little WD-40 also won't hurt, particularly if there is water present.

What about the garlic and the butter? ;) ;)

Me thinks that Sydney was being a bit "campy" with his olive oil suggestion. And if you are trekking on your bike, olive oil is the perfect lubricant for your camp skillet prior to frying ups some sausages. ;)

I like to use car wax on surfaces I'm protecting from rust. I keep my WD-40 away from my bikes. Being Italian, I keep my Olive Oil in the house where it belongs, in the kitchen. (I wish I could afford an Italian bike.)

WD-40 doesn't have any staying power. It's good for a few days and after that i't useless. When I wrenched we always used the LPS-2 product instead of WD-40. It sprays out a little heavier. Not so thin

This is better for French bikes....

I did a little searching and Boeshield sounds like a good product for rust and corrosion protection. It makes a good chain lube as well. It was developed for Boeing and leaves a thin coat of wax on surfaces.
Sears sells it.

LPS-2 also sounds good, but it's a wet lube, which will attract dirt (Boeshield is dry). Since I live in sunny So Cal, I'll go with Boeshield.

I used a steel bike in a coastal town for 5 years. I sprayed inside the steel tubes with WD40 and they stayed bright and shiny. Not to be done if your BB has replaceable bearings but it works for a sealed Shimano cartridge style.
For the outside, WD40 and oil washes away too quickly.
Grease attracts too much dirt so should be used on metal-metal contacts (eg threads) only.
I protect exposed metal using wax. Pretty much any wax will do, car wax, furniture polish. All exposed cables, bolts and the frame get cleaned and wiped. Keep away from rims.

On cables and in my frames I generally use Boeshield T9. It was made to prevent corrosion on airplanes, and leaves a nice waxy residue that stays on forever. Works great as a chain lube too.

I'm going to try the Boeshield T-9. On their website, they also sell a "Boeshield Bike Lube" in a smaller bottle. Do you know if it's the same stuff (T-9) sold in the larger containers, or if it's a different product specifically for bikes?

This thread from a few days ago lists a few additional alternatives. I have some LPS-3 which seems to work okay so far.

For me, a bigger issue is how to apply it effectively to ensure full coverage. Seems like the seat tube is about the only place where you have relatively open access. Just about everywhere else, you are spraying blind through vent holes and hoping you are coating everything.

It is the same. I've got myself a gallon from an aircraft supplier and use it liberally as protectant and lubricator. My steel-framed bike spends most time outside irrespectively of weather but does great thanks to Boeshield. Using stainless steel screws wherever possible helps too.

i use Silicon grease. Apply lightly and wipe of so that just a thin film remains. Next week wipe this off and reapply. Thin film only please.

8.5 years.

Paint works well, even on zombie rust.

Try bike frame and parts protectant, there are several good ones can be found on Amazon. Spray protectant might be easy to use, but does not last long. ;)

You can find research results e.g. here. I mix T-9 with LPS 3 and ACF 50.

In the end I have found that your personal touch is the best long term rust management. Sure products can be sprayed, dripped and brushed on but all will break down and or rub off. It always comes down to your cleaning and reestablishing what ever method you chose. Andy.

No, my mixture does none of that, within limits, and I do no cleaning whatsoever and there is no rust practically ever :thumb:.

I wonder what your experience would be if you lived in a high salt location like Santa Cruz or Cleveland. People far smarter and greedy then us have tried to solve this problems for hundreds of years and yet we're still asking the same questions. If we had a real answer then the US Navy could save millions each year on ship maintenance. Andy.

I ride the whole winter with bike covered in slush saturated with salt dispensed on the roads. My mixture evolved over time until I got to the stage where I could quit worrying about corrosion.