1cyclepath

I always like taking things apart and putting them back together and doing things myself since I was a kid. Having built up 10+ bikes from scratch and I want to learn more about building and truing wheels as a hobby. I know I can buy some prebuilt used Open Pros with Ultegra hubs for cheaper but I always wanted to learn. I will be buying some tools soon such as a truing stand, dishing gauge, tension meter...etc.

I'm looking for build a pair of "no-nonsense" training wheels using 32 hole open pro and either 105 or ultegra hubs. Should I go 2 cross in the front and 3x in the rear? Is it not recommended and less strong to do radial in the front using 32 hole shimano hubs and Mavic rim?

Also, would you recommend Jobst Brandt book in addition to Sheldon Brown's website as a guide?

Thanks.

genericbikedude

If they were mine, they'd be 3x all around. I used sheldon brown with the first build, no tensionometer, and it was just fine. Still using it a couple of years later and it hasn't gone out of true. You're fine.

same time

It's good that you understand that you can buy pre-built wheels for cheaper than the rims, spokes, and hubs add up to. Wheelbuilding is fun and rewarding, but it's also an expensive hobby. Building wheels for your friends (they pay for the parts) is a good way to build more wheels without spending a lot of dough.

I like Jobst Brandt's book - he has a different lacing technique than other folks and I like it.

As for your spoke crossing, there's nothing wrong with doing 2x up front. It will make your wheel unique, and if somebody notices you'll feel pretty good about yourself. Structurally it won't make much difference.

Bobby Lex

Brandt's book is an excellent resource.

Bob

NJWheelBuilder

Stay away from a front radial. Shimano's warranty is void if you do that. You could easily crack the flange if you don't know what you are doing.

wrench

Good luck. Building your own wheels and then riding on them is a very satisfying experience, especially if they last. Pay particular attention to the instructions Sheldon Brown and Jobst Brant give on tensioning and stress relieving the wheel. These are the key to good building. You don't need an expensive stand but you do need a dishing tool, a good spoke key (Spokey Red), a screwdriver and a long fingernail to pluck the spokes to get and even tension (tension relates to sound).
Open Pros are not the easiest rims to start with for a beginner. Find an old front wheel and practice taking it apart and rebuilding it a few times first.

halfspeed

If what you want is cheaper prebuilt, then buy the prebuilt, detension and retension it. It won't be perfect from the factory so it isn't a waste of time.

TallRider

I would second the suggestion that you not do your first build with Open Pros. Go with something older or cheaper.

Retro Grouch 

What's tricky about building Open Pros?

wrench

Lower profile rim, less metal and prone to spoke pull through and cracking of rim around drive side eyelets. Usually caused by overtensioning, paricularly if all spokes on drive side are not at an even tension .This is recognised by a characteristic brake wear pattern on the sidewall as the pad wears more alloy away where the drive side nipples are. It looks a bit like a dotted line - - - - - - on the rim wall. Superb rims if the builder is good. Very light and responsive. The anodising really helps the strength. Build loads in the shop.

Al1943

I think Open Pros are pretty much bullet proof if used as intended. Built my first two full sets with OP's, 3X 32h, aluminum nipples. Driveside rear spokes at 157 kgf (according to Park's conversion chart), no problems after several years and many thousands of miles. No cracks, no flat spots, no broken eyelets. Keeping them properly tensioned and true and with tires fully inflated is important. I use Jobst Brandt's book.
I have a slight preference for DT RR 1.1 rims because they are lighter and have welded seams.

Al