Carbon fork question: alu crowns ok?
 

Hi. I'm considering these two forks for a bicycle I'm building:
- BRC Profile; carbon legs with alu steerer and crown
- ReynoldsOuzo Pro; all carbon

I don't know much about carbon fiber bonding technologies, but it *seems* like something made all of a piece, from the same material, might be better (more sound, more solid, whatever) than something that's bonded.

Anything in the differences between these two forks worth considering? (The Reynolds is, I think, about $150 more than the BRC.)

Thanks (again)!
David

Bonded carbon has been around a long time. I would think they have it pretty well down pat by now. I would buy whichever fork I liked the best.

SS

I know it's hard to trust bonded carbon, but I ended up using it in my stem and it's been fine after a few hundred miles. When it comes down to control issues like that, I say it's worth the extra money if it makes you more comfortable on your bike. I use a non-bonded full carbon reynolds fork that I have abused severly and It has been totally bombproof.
If anything nags you when you're on your bike, it takes away from the ride. So either get over it, or just buy your peace of mind.

The total carbon will be a bit lighter. The carbon legs of the bonded forks will give you all the road buzz damping you need, and no worry about the stem clamping causing damage to the steerer. Aluminum failure will be more graceful than carbon.

If you are going to have more than 5cm of excess steerer tube showing below where the stem sits then you would want an Aluminum ST on the carbon fork. That is the recommendation of the Fork builders. I recently wanted to build a bike with a more upright position for touring and I went from a full Carbon Reynolds Ouzo Pro to a Comp fork for that reason. The opinions expresses by the others are all right on.
On a carbon steerer tube I use a torque wrench and never exceed the supplier recommended torque. Another tip is that if you use a shim for a different size stem/steerer tube then orient the split in the shim away from the split in the stem to reduce the chance of crushing the carbon. I recently observed the problem caused by an over tensioned carbon seat post. Tighter ain't better.

Good Luck