How to paint a frame?
 

I have an old frame that -- after much application of Strypease -- I have finally stripped of paint. But what to do now? I'd love to leave it with a brushed-metal look and just put a gloss on the frame, but I'm afraid I won't be able to get the coat thick enough or scratch resistant enough to prevent rust. Any suggestions out there on painting?

I've heard of a clear coat over steel, but I don't know how it would be done. I did strip and spray paint my bike, 4 coats, 2 of primer and 2 of gloss black and 1 of matte black in the middle with a fade out. I followed the directions on the company's website. It looks great and is quite durable. I would suggest 3 coats of each though, but keep each thin. THere are a very few places on the bike I under coated and the paint scratches off a bit easier there.

Don't clear coat over bare steel. It looks cool, and it may last a couple years... but it will eventually start rusting under the clear.

Don't ask me how I know.

Az

I would not reccomend the clearcoated steel look. The problem is the clearcoat will not stick well on an unprimed surface, so you will have to prime it and lose the bare look. You are better off doing a silver or 'chrome' paint then clearing it.
For the processes, run a search of the forum. We have many threads on record about it ;)
Any further unanswered questions, feel free to ask.

Many thanks! Rusting under the clear coat is precisely what I was worried about. I did the strip job only a few weeks ago. Amazing how quickly bare steel begins to rust!

I suggest having a frame powdercoated.

On that note, there's now a transparent powdercoat that adheres well and will NOT allow rust to form underneath.

Yo Dirt,

You can paint the bike on cheap by heading to Home Depot and picking up a couple rattlecans of Rustoleum Chalkboard, black or green. Recommended to me about a year ago by someone on the Forum, and I am forever grateful. Sure, the paint eventually nicks but it's easy to cover them with a smal brush and a little paint sparayed carefully in tin foil. I've gotten several compliments on the stealthy look of the frame -- a former Nishiki hybrid converted to SS/fixed. That helpful string still exists, I think. I've attached a partial photo of the frame shortly after I finished painting the bike. Good luck.

I recently painted my old MTB. The tip of the year:
- patience while brushing in huuuuge strokes

i used a Motip can (black) and after sanding the frame thoroughly i brushed with huge strokes to prevent dripping. Just 1 stroke, wait, one stroke, wait. The more time you take the finer the result. Check it out here: http://www.leunk.com/fieldcruiser

For future reference, you can have your frame stripped of all rust and paint at a facility that your nearest auto parts store can direct you to. I don't know the proper name for these facilities, but there are buisnesses that do commercial acid baths for metal, which will strip it down like nothing else, leaving no damage to the frame. As far as repainting it, I would suggest car paint. Thats what I did to my 1940's columbia.

Another good option is a product for firearms called "Duracoat" Its an extremely durable and waterproof do it yourself finish that gun owners apply to guns so that they can subject them to harsh conditions without fear of rusting. This is a permanent finish that will last for decades. Its available in dozens of colors. Any big gun store will have it.

michigander, I can't find the duracoat site but have just read some articles on it. Do you happen to know if it will work with aluminum?

this really looks like a great product for painting steel bikes.

nevermind, I just called Lauer Custom, they sell the duracoat and he said it will work on basically anything and also can be modified with a hardener if you have your bike outside exposed all the time, if it works it looks like a dream....thanks for the info, I'm going to try it out on my mt frame and see how it goes

Google does not turn up much about applying Duracoat to bicycle frames, so I'd love to hear from anyone who has tried or is trying it. They say 8 ounces of color is enough to cover 8 handguns or 4 long guns. I wonder if it would be enough for one frame. It starts getting pricy for 16 ounces with an "EZ airbrush", propellant, and reducer.

This is a great string! Choices, choices:
-- Rustoleum Chalkboard
--a transparent powdercoat
--"Duracoat"
Thanks all.

Rather than transparent powder, there are several metalic and chrome powders as well.

http://www.por15.com/

They have an acid etch, needs clearcoat to be U.V stable.
I will be using this product next paint. I paint my steel bike every year, use it a lot =gets scratched to hell.

doco

Sorry about my slow response. I'm sure it will work quite well on aluminum, because I have it on my Sig's aluminum frame. It has held up very well.

If you want to retain the brushed look, have the frame clear powdercoated. But clean it well with wax&grease remover first. For extra durability, paint a top quality clear over the over the powder coat. Be sure to clean the frame w/wax & grease remover, then just spray something like PPG DCU 2042 (2 part) clear. Put about 3 coats and you'll be good for life.
The reason to paint over powder is that powdercoating will adhear to the metal much better than just clear paint. So why spray clear paint? Because when the powdercoat is baked, surface tension causes the melted powder to pull back from sharp edges. (especially the edges of cable guides) This is where the rust will start. So, spraying with hi-tech 2 part clear, the clear will adhear to the powdercoat very well and seal all those edges. Plus the clear paint can be VERY glossy, unlike the somewhat duller finish of powdercoating. Also, if you pwdercoated with metallic or pearl color, the metallic or pearl is on top and will dull or disappear after a few cleanings and where the cable housing rubs.
If I lost you anywhere, e me for more details.
Ciao 4 Now,
Dr.D

I like this guy ^
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