50x34 users: Alot of chain deraillment?
02-07-06, 07:33 PM
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50x34 users: Alot of chain deraillment?
I really like compact but one unpleasant side effect is that if I don't watch where the chain is on my rear cassette when I go from the 50t to the 34t, it slips off entirely. 
Is that because of the 16t drop instead of the normal 14 t drop like on a 53-39?
Is that because of the 16t drop instead of the normal 14 t drop like on a 53-39?
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02-07-06, 09:00 PM
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What type of front shifter do you have? If it works by friction, you should be able to feather the cage and to control the motion of the chain while shifting. If it is indexed, you are SOL. I have no problem with a 52-48-34 triple, but that's only a 14-tooth drop from mid to low.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
02-07-06, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by John E
What type of front shifter do you have? If it works by friction, you should be able to feather the cage and to control the motion of the chain while shifting. If it is indexed, you are SOL. I have no problem with a 52-48-34 triple, but that's only a 14-tooth drop from mid to low.
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02-07-06, 09:14 PM
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I adjusted and adjusted. Got it much better, but never got it to go completely away.
Bought a 3rd eye chain watcher and I honestly don't know if it even happens anymore.
Bought a 3rd eye chain watcher and I honestly don't know if it even happens anymore.
02-07-06, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Sincitycycler
Ultegra. I swear to God they should go back to old friction downtube shifters...you could dial those in like no tomorrow!
When you installed the compact crank, did you reposition the front derailleur lower to have the correct clearance with the smaller chainrings?
02-08-06, 09:57 AM
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You're having far too much trouble with this whole thing. Is your mechanic at your LBS a good wrench?
02-08-06, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Sincitycycler
I really like compact but one unpleasant side effect is that if I don't watch where the chain is on my rear cassette when I go from the 50t to the 34t, it slips off entirely.
Is that because of the 16t drop instead of the normal 14 t drop like on a 53-39?
Is that because of the 16t drop instead of the normal 14 t drop like on a 53-39?
02-08-06, 10:39 AM
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I have compact 50/34 and never once had this problem.
Campy only.
Of course make sure that the front der. is adjusted properly, the chain is clean and lubed , blah blah blah....
Campy only.
Of course make sure that the front der. is adjusted properly, the chain is clean and lubed , blah blah blah....
02-08-06, 01:24 PM
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>>Is that because of the 16t drop instead of the normal 14 t drop like on a 53-39? <<
how are you coming up with 16 teeth?
erader
how are you coming up with 16 teeth?
erader
02-08-06, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by erader
>>Is that because of the 16t drop instead of the normal 14 t drop like on a 53-39? <<
how are you coming up with 16 teeth?
erader
how are you coming up with 16 teeth?
erader
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02-08-06, 11:18 PM
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There's nothing holding you from going back to the old friction down-tube shifters. Lance rode some climbing stages with friction down-tube shifter for front derailler and STI indexed for the rear. This isn't a bad idea except that your right and left brake hoods have different shapes (assuming you're using a non-STI lever for the left - you could just suck up the extra weight to have matching shapes). If I lived in a flatter area where I wasn't shifting all the time for rolls and rises and dips, I'd still be using down-tube shifters. Love the simplicity. And the ability to trim the front derailler cage whatever you want.
Of course, Campy Ergo shifting isn't step-indexed for the front derailer the way that Shimano is.
Of course, Campy Ergo shifting isn't step-indexed for the front derailer the way that Shimano is.
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02-09-06, 01:24 AM
#12
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I use a 50/34t crank and have no problems with the FD dropping the chain. Have you set the inner limit screw so the derailleur doesn't move in too far? Also is the height of the FD set so that the outer-cage is only 2-3mm above the teeth?
02-09-06, 01:32 AM
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>>50x34 50 -34 = 16 unless there is some kind of new math that I'm unaware of? <<
damn what was i thinking
?
erader
btw, i used to always use a 38 on a double. with a 53, 52 and 51. but mostly a 52 because the 51 was old school DA pre ramps and pins.
38x26 was my climbing gear. i could also use a 38x28 but back in the day 26 was all i needed.
damn what was i thinking
?erader
btw, i used to always use a 38 on a double. with a 53, 52 and 51. but mostly a 52 because the 51 was old school DA pre ramps and pins.
38x26 was my climbing gear. i could also use a 38x28 but back in the day 26 was all i needed.
02-09-06, 08:56 AM
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FWIW, when I installed a 50T large ring I pulled out my Shimano tech sheets on front derailleur installation procedures. There are four adjustments that require attention whenever the FD is loosened, removed, reinstalled, or when you change the large chain ring size. After repeating the same four adjustments and checks that I had done when I originally installed the FD, I removed one link from the chain. I don't think the link removal was at all neccessary, but I guess I didn't have enough to do that day.
02-09-06, 09:57 AM
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I haven't ever dropped the chain. Have about 1500 miles on the compact crankset (Ritchey WCS with 105 FD).
A friend of mine was having issues (FSA crank with Ultegra FD). I spent about 15 minutes adjusting the derailleur again and it's been fine since. Get the derailleur position right before you tackle the limits - it should be pretty much parallel to the chainrings and close to the big ring (about a penny-width between the teeth and the bottom of the derailleur).
Derailleur adjustment is key - both the swing limits, and position.
A friend of mine was having issues (FSA crank with Ultegra FD). I spent about 15 minutes adjusting the derailleur again and it's been fine since. Get the derailleur position right before you tackle the limits - it should be pretty much parallel to the chainrings and close to the big ring (about a penny-width between the teeth and the bottom of the derailleur).
Derailleur adjustment is key - both the swing limits, and position.
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