Chain sizing.
 

Guys, one last flogging for the preverbial horse.

I've got a new SRAM PC-69 9-speed chain. I'm fitting it this weekend. The instructions that came with it say to wrap it around big/big, and add two links, one of which includes the Power Link.

The Sheldon Brown method plus your previous information in other threads pretty much confirms that as well.

So that's what I'm going to do. If anything breaks after that, then as you all agree with the big/big plus one (two!) links method, I shall personally sue the forums, and I will call each one of you as witnesses. Hopefully, this wont need to go to court!:D

Wish me luck.:)

BIG/BIG only works depend on the size of the front chain ring.

Since I run a larger48t (rater then the 42t that come with the cranks), if I use the BIG/BIG method then when I am in my middle ring and in high gear in back(smallest) the derailer arm and pullys run up aginst the chain.

Slainte:beer:

DBD. My biggie is a 44T. Sound Ok?

I have a 44T BR and use the Sheldon Brown method of Big / Big plus two links.

Remember though, two links are actually 4 sections ((2) inner / (2) outer) of chain.

Really bad applesauce.......a link is a link.There are wide and narrow ones.Suggest you count the links in a new chain where the manufacturer tells you how many there are.A new sram with 114 LINKS, has 56 wide and 58 narrow.

The method that I used to use was this:

With the chain going through the derailleurs, add 1 complete link to the shortest possible length. It seems to work.

Small Small and make sure the chain dosent rub on itself when its going through the derailleur.

And make damm sure it handles the big/big, even though you aren't suppososed to go there.

The Big-Big method works well in terms of being safe. It does allow you to shift to that combination safey.

The big-big method, and then adding 1-inch of chain, does not assume that you are using the correct derailleur for the gear capacity you are running. A different method uses small-small, and shorten so it just works. This one does assume you are using the correct derailleur for your gearing.

If you run a wide gear range, and are using as short cage derailleur, the Big-Big technique is still good, but you will have chain drag is the small-small, and probably a few gears next to it as well. If you are violating your gear range as per your derailleur capacity, you cannot get all gears.

See also http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/...inlength.shtml

"Really bad applesauce"? Interesting statement, but you're right Pokey, my statement does need amendment. To be accurate it should read "I have a 44T BR and use the Sheldon Brown method of Big / Big plus one link.

Remember though, one link is actually 2 sections ((1) inner (or narrow) / (1) outer (or wide)) section of chain.

If we haven't thoroughly confused Bokkie by now, just give us a little more time :D

With all that is going on in this thread, the answer is yes. It should work for you.

Slainte:beer:

I did it! I went big/big+2, and after I shortened the chain I compared it to the original. The original chain was a whopping 4" longer. Maybe that might explain why the chain was 'dancing' a lot when I was riding.

I had a look at the jockey wheel position by shifting into the big/big combo after I fitted the new chain (I know, I should'nt do that). The S-bend of the jockey wheels looks more 'natural' and not as strained if you see what I'm getting at.

I'm an instant fan of the power link! I also noticed that when I lifted the bikes butt and ran through the gear changes that the new (correct chain length) is actually smoother and quieter. I did that before I tool the old chain off and there was no crud on the chain (I know, there should have been!!!).

I am indeed a happy bunny! Just hope the power link does not got AWOL whilst I ride!:D