Shimano M520 bearing play
I've taken this pedal to 2 different LBS's, and both have told me that this pedal is not serviceable. One even suggested that it would be dangerous to use this pedal at all anymore, and directed me to their pedal case to buy the M540s at double the price.
But I *know* I've seen a PDF file on the Internet for servicing these pedals. The problem I'm having is that the axle has a lot of play (about 1mm) on one of the pedals. Enough play that I feel it creaking when pedaling hard, and can feel the axle clacking around when hitting cracks/potholes on the road. Should I just buy the TL-PD40 tool and do it myself? Is it hard? How would one adjust these pedals for no more play? |
Originally Posted by worker4youth
I've taken this pedal to 2 different LBS's, and both have told me that this pedal is not serviceable. One even suggested that it would be dangerous to use this pedal at all anymore, and directed me to their pedal case to buy the M540s at double the price.
But I *know* I've seen a PDF file on the Internet for servicing these pedals. The problem I'm having is that the axle has a lot of play (about 1mm) on one of the pedals. Enough play that I feel it creaking when pedaling hard, and can feel the axle clacking around when hitting cracks/potholes on the road. Should I just buy the TL-PD40 tool and do it myself? Is it hard? How would one adjust these pedals for no more play? Exploded view of your pedal: http://www.shimano.com.au/publish/co...-M540-2234.pdf Park article: http://www.cyclingnews.com/tech/fix/?id=shimano_pedals My comments and proceedure: SPD and SPD-SL types are pretty much the same as each other as far as the axle and bearing mechanism. The Park article shows you how to disassemble them and just add new grease. Personally, I take them apart completely and clean everything completely. This takes a lot of patience as there are 24 3/32" loose balls in each pedal (two sets of 12). It takes me about 45 minutes to completely disassemble, clean, grease, and re-assemble one pedal. It's a good winter or rainy day project. I do mine about once a year. The one special tool you need is the Shimano TL-40. There are a couple of other flat open end wrenches you need and you can use a small socket for the lock nut on the end. You service these just like any other loose ball bearing set. I also find that an axle vise makes life much easier to hold the whole thing. Set up over a big rag or in some kind of a box, as you are guaranteed to drop at least a couple of those tiny little balls. The last thing you do is to make sure the tiny rubber seal (it's not an o-ring, but similar) is seated down in the plastic housing as far as you can get it. This is what keeps the dirt out of the bearings and it tends to float away from the plastic housing. Hold the pedal in your hand and rotate it around the axle, and, at the same time, push that little seal down into the plastic housing with a fingernail. Once I figured out what this did and started keeping it pushed in, my bearings stay a lot cleaner. As with all bearings, if you submerge them in water, they are going to need a more aggressive maintenance schedule. I know this sounds like a lot of work, but for most of us DuraAce pedals are pretty expensive and once you learn how to do this job it's pretty easy. It just takes time and a lot of patience. A steady hand and a good pair of tweezers help, too. I originally posted this elsewhere for a question about DuraAce pedals, but they are internally the same. I have R600, M520, and M540 pedals myself and they are all pretty much the same on the inside of the pedal. Good luck with your repair! In some defense of your LBS's, it's pretty clear to me that servicing these pedals is time consuming and would be a losing proposition for a shop. But, that being said, they should have just told you that. |
thanks cascade, for that very thorough info. Where do I need to make adjustments in order to get the bearing tight again? I would rather not do a complete overhaul this time, seeing as how much time I better invest. Usually when you say 45 minutes, if it's my first time, I probably should triple that to 2.5 hours.
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Originally Posted by worker4youth
thanks cascade, for that very thorough info. Where do I need to make adjustments in order to get the bearing tight again? I would rather not do a complete overhaul this time, seeing as how much time I better invest. Usually when you say 45 minutes, if it's my first time, I probably should triple that to 2.5 hours.
You said you have 1mm of play, so I think we can assume all the balls are still in place. Remove the pedal from the crank. I looked again and you don't need the TL40 tool for the M540s. You do need it for alot of Shimano pedals (M520, R540, R600, and 6610 need it). In the service diagram you will see a thing called a "lock bolt". Using an open end wrench and holding the pedal body steady, unscrew this lock bolt (the pedal body should move off the axle as you unscrew the lock bolt). The pedal body should come off and reveal the innards of the axle assembly. At the end of the axle you will see two nuts. The one on the very end is the lock nut and the next one is actually a bearing cone. I'll bet your lock nut is loose. Ok, assuming the grease looks good, just do a normal loose ball bearing adjustment on the cone nut and then lock it in place with the lock nut. I usually put the pedal axle in an axle vise while I'm doing this so I can concentrate on the cone adjustment and lock nut. With M540's you can stick an allen wrench in the other end of the pedal axle and then just put the allen wrench in a vise. That will work ok. To do the adjustment of the cone and tighten the lock nut you need (if I recall the sizes correctly) a flat 8mm open end wrench (for the cone) and a 7mm wrench, or socket, for the lock nut. I use a little 7mm socket on a 1/4" ratchet for the lock nut myself. So, tighten the cone until the bearings are running properly and then lock it down with the lock nut. This may take a few tries as the adjustment changes when you tighten the lock nut. I know I never get it on the first shot. Take your time here and get the adjustment as good as you can. I'd say grease as they say in the Park article and then screw the pedal body back on. Hopefully, that's it. If you are lucky, your lock nut just came loose. If that 1mm of play is due to wear, then you will have to deal with that as best you can. If you have problems, try to take some pictures and post them up. Good luck! |
Originally Posted by worker4youth
thanks cascade, for that very thorough info. Where do I need to make adjustments in order to get the bearing tight again? I would rather not do a complete overhaul this time, seeing as how much time I better invest. Usually when you say 45 minutes, if it's my first time, I probably should triple that to 2.5 hours.
http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cg..._id=SH-TL-PD40 It's too bad ..... Shimano used to include these with the pedal sets. Don't forget to hold the pedal axle steady when you first try to turn the lock bolt. |
I've serviced Shimano pedals (the older SPD-R models). Do not try to undo the plastic collar with anything except the TL-PD40 tool - it is very easy to damage the plastic. The tool makes the job easy. Note that the collar on the right side pedal is left hand threaded.
Once you're in, follow cascade 168's excellent directions. It would be worth having some fresh grease and spare bearing balls on hand, I believe the correct size is 3/32" - it was for mine. You might as well do a full service once you get them apart - they are worth it. My SPD-R pedals have given excellent service, in the last five years I overhauled them twice and they are still almost as smooth as new. Good luck, Ed |
Originally Posted by Ed Holland
I've serviced Shimano pedals (the older SPD-R models). Do not try to undo the plastic collar with anything except the TL-PD40 tool - it is very easy to damage the plastic. The tool makes the job easy. Note that the collar on the right side pedal is left hand threaded.
Originally Posted by Ed Holland
Once you're in, follow cascade 168's excellent directions. It would be worth having some fresh grease and spare bearing balls on hand, I believe the correct size is 3/32" - it was for mine. You might as well do a full service once you get them apart - they are worth it. My SPD-R pedals have given excellent service, in the last five years I overhauled them twice and they are still almost as smooth as new.
Good luck, Ed |
^^^Yes, that's the kind of disgusting lie people hate bike shops for. The guy just wanted the OP to buy a new pedal on the spot because that's easy money for the shop with no real work. Ugh.
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to be fair to the LBS if you are not a bike geek (I presume the OP ddn't introduce themselves as such) and rely on the LBS for the repair it probably becomes uneconomic and would be cheaper to buy new pedals
Also if the LBS advise you to do the servicing yourself and you screw it up and fall off then you might blame or even sue them. |
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