Plosive

I found a Bridgestone XO-1 in my size and decided to take the plunge. It is in serious need of paint and new decals but otherwise ok. My first need is to change the brake system. I don't want to restore this bike as original. I want to USE it as my daily commuter. The cantilever brakes on it now are very difficult to adjust and have to be partially disassembled to remove the wheel. What brakes would fit/work on this bike that would allow the wheel to come off without the disassembly?

I bought the bike with drop bars and bar-end shifters, and will probably keep it that way. "Common" modifications/improvements on this bike would be appreciated too.

TallRider

classic-design cantilever brakes are a pain to adjust, but there should be no problems other than that. If by "partially disassemble" you mean that you need to disconnect the straddle wire that connects to the top of the brake arms, then that's standard for Canti brakes, and very easy to do, and not a drawback IMO.

You could get newer cantilever brakes, ones whose pads adjust with an allen bolt instead of requiring more tools and skill. Here's some good ones by Tektro and Shimano.

V-brakes won't work with your current brake levers because they require more cable pull, so you need special levers. The only V-brake compatible levers designed for road drop bars are the Dia Compe 287V. Only worth going this direction if you're going to upgrade the levers anyway.

HillRider

Tim has it exactly right. You have to disconnect one end of the straddle cable to open cantilever brakes to allow wheel removal. That's the equivelent of the quick release on caliper brakes and it's a feature, not a bug.

I have Shimano LX cantilevers on an early '90's Trek MTB and they work well and hold their centering adjustments with no problem. And yes, you have to unhook one end of the straddle cable to remove the wheel.

Plosive

The bike appears to have the bosses to install caliper brakes. The space or clearance appears to be to large between the bosses and the braking surface on the rims of the 26 inch wheels. I would rather have caliper brakes if possible, but the spacing seems all wrong?

thurstonboise

You would need some really long calipers for that or use that adapter thing sheldon brown sells to lower the caliper mounting point.

Not my business portion of post:
That's an XO-1 slap some mustache bars on that badboy and ride it with pride.

Plosive

"that adapter thing sheldon brown sells " what is this? link? would it work for my bike?

"That's an XO-1 slap some mustache bars on that badboy and ride it with pride."
HA! I knew that was comming....I need to figure out how to make it STOP first...I've only had it ONE DAY. I might just put some M bars on it soon as an experiment though

thurstonboise

It's on this page
https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakes.html
Scroll down and look for "Drop Bolt"

It looks like the original XO-1 had Dia Compe calipers.

well biked

If you don't like cantis, go with V-brakes. It seems like the price has come down on V-brakes lately, with the popularity of discs. The biggest expense will probably be the Dia-Compe levers mentioned above, so you can pull the correct amount of cable and still use the drop bars. You probably realize that even with V-brakes, you have to do a little manuever with the brake noodle to release the calipers, enabling you to remove the wheel. It's not a big deal at all, though. V-brakes are extremely easy to set up, adjust, and allow easy removal of the wheel. I really think they became popular for these reasons, and the fact that they offer excellent braking power, although not necessarily more power than cantis. I've used both types, and I prefer V's over cantis because they're easier to set up, adjust, etc., and they offer all the power I need, even in hairy mountain bike situations. Although on an older bike like the XO-1, the cantis would look better, IMHO. Good luck with it, that's a neat bike-

well biked

I'm not saying you couldn't do it with a drop bolt or something, but I think the holes at the center of the fork crown and seatstay bridge on that bike were intended for fenders, not brakes. I'd stick with the canti bosses-

roadfix

I agree.

TallRider

+2.

And, I don't think there's any reason to ditch the cantilever brakes. If you have trouble setting up the pads, just buy some modern canti brakes that have the pads adjust with an allen bolt, so use pads same as V-brakes. Cantis allow wider tires and work better with fenders, too, if you ever want to go that route. But even if not, there's little to dislike about them.

mcmurryjohn

I have the 92 XO-1 (sidepull model) in a 52cm in great condition. I like canti's...Possible trade?

white lobster

Those look like Dia Compe 986 brakes. I've seen more than one experienced mechanic brought to tears by those brakes. I used to have them on my old Dean and, between the flexy ti stays and the even flexier brake arms, they rarely worked. They also have a goofy system of spring adjustment that requires a cone wrench and a 5mm allen wrench. Once the brakes get old, it's nearly impossible to keep the pads in one place when you try to tighten the allen bolt that (supposedly) holds them in place.

Bad memories.

I second the moustache bars. And stick with the cantilevers. It'll be easier to mount fenders, which are clearly indicated in this situation.