Framesaver
 

What is it, where can I get it, and how do I apply it? I notices some rust coming out of the little holes in my chainstays today, which was definately worrying.

I don't have a little hole at the bottom of my bb shell. Should I? How to drill one? Does one need some sort of power tool, or should it be lbs'd?

A reasonably priced product is Boshield spray. Its available at boating supply stores.
I don't know if I'd start drilling holes. The steel in the BB area is pretty thick, so it would take a while to rust through.

Do a search on Boeshield T-9, you'll get lots of hits, including on bikeforms. Trek dealers also sometimes sell a Wrench Force framesaver. There's probably enough grease in the BB to not worry about rusting, chain stays are a different matter.

It is like cosmoline (http://www.schafco.com/cosmoline.asp)
You can get it from an LBS or online
Just spray it in every open hole on the bike. Does you bike not have a guide under the BB. You just unscrew it and squirt the stuff in there. If you do not have that just shoot a bunch down the seat tube, there is a hole at the bottom, to the BB.

Hey generic, I work at Gotham on W/broadway btw/ Duane and Read. We carry the JP weigel in a can for 13 bucks. Swing by on Thursday and I'll show you how to apply it. That stuff is awesome.

I can also help you drill a hole in your BB after work at 6:30.

Boeshield is good stuff-for lubing chains, cables, etc. Not as good for rust protecting frames. Go big with the Weigel's and dont worry about yer bb shell. Just strip yer fame bare, fork and bb included. Thatll make it easier to coat all the tubes thoroughly and you wont get blowback from spraying aerosol.

Hey Afterthisnap--good looking out. I have class until 6--will you be there at 6:45-7PM?

Absolutely no need to drill a hole in the BB. To apply framesaver (or Boeshield T9, or Amsoil HDMP, etc.) you should remove the bottom bracket, fork, seatpost... basically strip the frame down. JP Weigel's FrameSaver itself probably just the same stuff as Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protectant; the latter is cheaper and comes in a larger can. But Frame Saver comes with very helpful and useful instructions for treating bike frames. And it's still not very expensive - $15 is enough to treat 4 bikes.

I used the amsoil HDMP $6.45 plus shipping-got it in 2 days from online https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/Se...CategoryID=145

Was easy to apply (spray) and dried fast (less than a day). I did 3 coats and still have half a can left.

If you go with J. P. weigle frame saver, do it outside, cause it's poisonous and sticks terrible. But it works wonderfully though...

Dried Framesaver cleans up with WD-40 or white spirits.

generic
I just did my steel frame yesterday with Boeshield T-9. If you have the frame completely stripped down you can get to all of the internals without drilling more holes. The T-9 seems good, it leaves a coating on everything including the cement floor, doesn't seem toxic, and one can will do a lot of frames.

I meant stinks, not sticks. sorry...

Just so you know, framesaver is merely linseed oil in a spray can. Linsed oil is available at any hardware store. If you are taking the frame apart anyway, just pour some down the tubes and swirl it around. Pour out the excess. It will thicken in a few days and you're set for life. ;)

Taken from the Framesaver spray can:
"Contains: Petroleum distallates and Heptane"

So, Jokerette, which one of those ingredients is the linseed oil??? Please, I'm sure that there are a lot of people that want to know.

Having used both Framesaver and Linseed oil I'm going to disagree with you on this. Framesaver is a waxy anti-corrosive compound. The distinct smell of framesaver can be found in seveal wax based anti-corrosive compounds made for the automotive market.

Also, Framesaver dries nothing like linseed oil. Fravesaver dries with much better adhesion to metal than linseed oil. How do I know this? It's been a long hard winter and I've been playing with automotive anti-corrosives, linseed oil, framesaver, metal, and saltwater in my basement. What a geek!

BTW, linseed oil is a good alternative to commericaly available anti-corrosive sprays, it's just not the same as Framesaver.

What makes you so sure?

I used Gunk/Liquid Wrench Industrial Chain Lube to coat the inside of a steel frame. It looked and smelled the same as the descriptions I have read of Boeshield and Amsoil (that is, nasty). After it dried it left behind a kind of greasy, kind of waxy film on the tube walls. Not a recommendation, just FYI.

Actually, most industrial products do not list ALL the ingredients. It's not like a food product where everything has to be listed. Companies are required to report certain toxic or otherwise unsafe ingredients. The petroleum distillates are probably just the carrier for the active ingredient be it linseed oil or mystery junk #67 Heptane is a nasty fellow with all sorts of environmental and safety issues. It is used as a solvent.

Thank you Ziemas & Toolboy for replying with insightful information. (without being as smarmy as Cascade168!) Somebody has been watching tooo much South Park! :rolleyes:

I still don't see you backing up your statement with any facts. I got mine right off the can.

framesaver is definitely NOT linseed oil, and linseed oil would have to be listed as an ingredient if it were included. It has its own Material data safety sheet, and classifies as an organic polymer, which under pressure can oxidize explosively.
The weigel stuff is heads and shoulders better than linseed oil by itself. Sorry to burst your baseless bubble, Jokerette.

Thanks for your update, ATN. As we all know, credibility on the internet is a huge problem. My experience was pretty much the same as Ziemas described - I have used Framesaver on several frames and have been using linseed oil for spokes and other things for years. So, I was pretty sure that they were not the same.

I think it's important for anyone posting to either back up their statements with a credible source or be sure and let people know that they are stating opinions or guesses or speculating. The original statement by Jokerette was pretty much stated as fact. In the past this forum had a pretty damn good b/s filter in Jim Price, but, sadly, he is gone. I'm sure that his reply would have been much more acerbic than mine was. That's why people either loved him or not. But, in the end, he was "the Man" when it came to sorting out the truth.

The debate continues...
 

I suspect that what you're referring to is "Boiled" linseed oil which is not actually boiled at all but just natural oil cold pressed from flax seed but then mixed with industrial solvents to speed its drying time. I don't use linseed oil OR Framesaver, I am just trying to point out that we all have to have a little tolerance for posters even if they aren't industrial chemists or engineers. Life would be kinda boring if we were right all the time. :)