I need spare spokes
 

I have this wheel: http://www.performancebike.com/shop/...tegory_ID=5320

That I ordered from performance last week. I will be going on tour in a little over a week and want to take some spare spokes for the wheel. However, I don't know what I need. I called Performance and they actually said, "I have no idea sir".

So yeah... what do I need? And can I mix DT spokes with WheelSmith? I can't find a shop in town that carries WS.

You need to get the spoke hole pattern diameter of the hub in question, the number of spoke holes, the number of crosses and the diameter of the rim where the spoke nipples rest. Once you have that find a spoke length calculator on line and plug your numbers in then order soke spokes of that length from WheelSmith

How rough is this tour that you think you'll need spare spokes for it? Anyway, as mentioned above you should get those numbers and plug it into a spoke calculator. I don't like replacing individual spokes in the first place, so I think you'd be fine using any kind of spoke as a "spare". There won't be any safety problems, maybe a weight balance issue of 0.1 grams per spoke. :D Last thought, though, have you tried calling Performance and asking them what lengths are used in that wheel? They might be able to bounce the question off a builder and get back to you.

Well, if you already have the built up wheel, you can just measure the existing spokes. Remember that rear wheels use two different lengths (drive, and non drive side). And breaking one spoke on a 36 spoke wheel is not so serious. (If you break a spoke on a 24 spoke (or less) wheel, you're done for the day.)

If you had weirder bladed carbon insanium spokes on super lightweight wheels, I'd consider keeping a stash in the SAG vehicle. But you'll likely not be doing any road repairs (it's always the drive side spokes that go, and that means removing the cluster, ...etc) so It'll be at the hotel that night, or a local shop.

If it is an unsupported camping tour, it's probably not a bad idea to keep a spare of all three lengths (rear drive, rear non-drive, front)

And if this is a new wheel, you should check and retension the spokes before even starting out.

According to spocalc, your rear wheel should use 300.5mm and 301.5mm spokes (different on each side due to the dishing). You should be just fine with a few spares of 301mm length. I don't think it's a huge problem to mix DT and Wheelsmith, but I would stick with the double-butted, since mixing in a few non-butted spokes will cause undue stresses on those spokes and probably break them quickly.

Call around to your local bike shops and see if anyone has a Phil Wood spoke rolling machine. It is a sign of a truly good shop if they have one, and they will be able to cut and thread spokes to exactly the length you need very quickly as long as they have or can get the spoke stock you need.

If you are really serious about getting good spares, it would be best to take a spoke out of your wheel and have it measured by a shop with such a machine. This way they can match the legth of the butting (it varies) as well as the length of the spoke overall. If you don't feel comfortable taking a spoke out of your wheel to make these measurements, are you sure that spare spokes are going to do you much good when you are out on a road in the middle of nowhere? This is a good test to make sure you are up to impromptu wheelsmithing. :)

Shops usually charge about a dollar per spoke for double butted when building wheels for customers, but I am not sure what a shop would charge to just cut some spokes with no wheelbuilding involved. Maybe more, maybe less.

MacG: You sure about that size?

I just got an e-mail from performance:

"Eric,

The rear A719 uses 291 wheelsmith spokes on the right side and 289 on the left."

Measure what you've got. (spokes that is):)

I've seen good reviews for 'kevlar' spokes.

If you DO manage to break a spoke on that wheel (looks pretty sturdy to me) it will most likely be a drive side spoke. That requires that you have the tool needed to pull the cassette. Sooooo, I suggest carrying one fiberfix spoke, aka kevlar spoke (peter white cycles, harris cyclery, adventure cycling assn and other sell these). This does not require pulling the cassette. They last very well and can be reused. ymmv

How do you measure spoke length on a wheel with the tire on?
You do not measure the bent portion inside hub?
Do you assume it goes all the way into the nipple?

How can a 3-cross on both sides, equal hub flange diameter wheel have longer spokes on the drive side?

I have no idea what length spokes I needed.

That was just what performance told me. Figures coming from a company that triple charged me once and lost my package twice.

Offset. If the centerline between hub flanges is not on plane as the centerline of the rim/frame this will occur.

As simple as it sounds, the spokes stretch while building, so they might be a couple mm longer than they started out before the build, so measuring might come up with a number that is too long.

Go HERE to figure out spoke length. You may be able to use THIS SITE to find the Effective Rim Diameter of your rims. I doubt mixing DT and Wheelsmith will be a problem. It would probably be good to match the thickness though. If your wheel was built w/ straight-gauge spokes, use straight-gauge.

S.