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How the hell do you guys fix chain pins on the trail?

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How the hell do you guys fix chain pins on the trail?

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Old 02-19-03, 04:20 PM
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How the hell do you guys fix chain pins on the trail?

Just finished servicing my wife's bike. Final assembly was putting the chain back on. The chain was a kind of no-name brand so I popped the pin, chain removed, no problem. Problem was getting that darned pin back in the link! I had the luxury of having the bike up on a workstand, and tried a few sets of pliers so I could push the pin in enough so that I could use the chain tool to push it home. That was a pain. I think I need to trash that chain and get an SRAM powerlink instead!

So if you guys need to break a chain on the trail, what technique do you use to get the pin back in? Maybe the Topeak Alien tool I used is a poor compromise. Are there other chain tools that help to centre/hold the pin when you drive it back into the link? I found this a pain to put in and I'd hate to have to do that on the trail.
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Old 02-19-03, 04:37 PM
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The key is to NOT pop the pin all of the way out. If you go carefully, the pin can still be help by one of the sideplates, and the chain will still come apart. You can use a shoelace or a bent metal coathanger to make the section of chain you are working on slack so it is easier to work with the chain. I carry a small section of shoelace on the trail with me for this purpose. Getting a powerlink will also help, but the key is to not pop the pin all of the way through the side plate on the opposite side from where your chain tool is pushing the chain. And yes, you will have a much easier time of it if you get a proper chain tool. Park even makes one that resembles a pair of plyers for shop use, but it is expensive. I would go out and get myself a real chain tool. It will make it much easier.
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Old 02-19-03, 04:41 PM
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What Moabrider said is right. Don't push the pin all the way out.

I throw a Missing Link in my saddle bag. I buy them for a few bucks at my LBS. They aren't a reusable master link, but a simple connecting link. They make trailside repairs a breeze.
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Old 02-19-03, 04:46 PM
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Ditto on the Park chain tool. Buy a small one at your LBS. The other ones I've used are more frustrating to work with than they're worth. Once I used a nail and a rock I found along the side of the road. That was when I left my Park in another seat bag. Got me home though.
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Old 02-19-03, 07:53 PM
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Just get a power link, and maybe one for your tool kit. Sachs chains all come with power links now, I use one on every bike I own...well three on the off road tandem and four on the touring tandem
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Old 02-20-03, 04:04 AM
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There is no need to remove a chain for trailside repairs, but if you do, then a power-link is used.
Ive had one chain snap on me, fortunately at the very end of the ride. You need to remove the snapped link with a chaintool, and there is no need to replace the link, just re-link the chain for the ride home.
The chaintools on multi-tools like the Cooltool are OK for this kind of emergency repair, but larger workshop chaintools are easier to handle and usually made with greater precision. Pliers type chaintools are really for professional workshops.
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Old 02-20-03, 09:45 AM
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I carry in my saddlebag along with chain tool, 2 chain links
and extra pins just in case. I may not be a boyscout anymore
(thats another long story) but I'm prepared.

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Old 02-20-03, 04:00 PM
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just curious buy why would you want to remove your chain?
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Old 02-20-03, 04:06 PM
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Originally posted by montlake_mtbkr
just curious buy why would you want to remove your chain?
I like to remove my chains to clean them. Take it off the bike, soak it in citrus degreaser, rinse it out, hang it back on the bike and lube it.

On the trail, there is no reason to remove a chain, but, they do occasionally break. In that case you need to be able to remove the offending link and rejoin the chain. That's why I carry a small chain tool and a spare master link.
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Old 02-20-03, 09:12 PM
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While it is true to leave a little bit of the pin in place (and thus not remove it), the chain can be taken apart by gripping each "half" and bending latterally. It pops off. Use the reverse and it clicks in place. If the chain is still on the big front sprocket, take it off. Better yet, let it drape around the bottom bracket. In this way, you won't be fighting the tension of the rear deraillleur.
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