The best way to get what I want - please give me your $0.02
 

I finally moved to a new place and I do not need to drive 88 miles each way to attend classes. Now I have a nice paved bike path about 8 miles each way that I would like to commute and use my car only when severe weather makes things dangerous (I'm in Tampa Bay, FL - Hurricanes, Tornadoes, you know...)

I have a list of features that I would like my bike to have or at least have the potential for upgrade later on. Her eit is:

700c wheels

flat handle bar with some form of extensions (maybe a trekking handlebar, maybe the classic extensions)

Fenders

Rear Rack

Disk Brakes or some VERY EFFICIENT brakes under any kind of circumstances (Usually wet)

ability to, in the future, hold a Rohlof 14 internal Hub gear

No rear suspension (a Thudbuster seat will do fine)

Based on that, What do you guys recommend: Buy a new bike like a Gary Fisher Utopia and add my stuff, buy an used Mountain Bike that has fenders/rear rack capabilities, buy a frame and start from scratch or actually, this bike exist and I am just having a hard time to find?

Budget is sub 1000 (with everything besides the Rohlof Hub). This bike will be used as the Battle Tank for a sub 20 miles daily commute and some longer rides (30-60) on weekends. Mostly paved but road bikes may not do well on the road conditions that I may find. Being able to do a century confortable wouldn't hurt.

Thank you for sharing your wisdom.

Rafael, I'm just curious: if Tampa typically doesn't get much rain and your main weather concerns are hurricanes and tornadoes, why are brake efficiency and fenders so critical? If the forecast is so dire, you're not likely to be out riding your bike--you'll be too busy boarding up your windows.

Tampa gets rain every afternoon. Every afternoon.

usually about 3:30 when I'm visiting.

From your description, it sounds like there are many available hybrid bikes that would meet your requirements and budget. Check the Trek, Specialized, Cannondale, Fuji, etc. web sites and dealers. Surley, as noted is also a good bet.

When it is not raining, there are the sprinclers and the billion-gallons of water on my pathway...

You could start with a touring frame or almost any 1960s or early 1970s frame and build up what you want. Most older frames accommodate wider tires, such as 700Cx28mm or even 700Cx32mm, which I would recommend for your application. (I commute very happily on 27x1-3/8" knobbies, for which my old Peugeot UO-8 klunker has ample clearance.)

I ride an old Ciocc racing bike outfitted with rack and panniers and I LOVE it.

What's your price range?

Budget is sub 1000 (with everything besides the Rohlof Hub).

I would go with a touring frame (maybe the surley long haul trucker) and canti brakes. Forget the thudbuster post, go with a sprung Brooks.

Fuji Crosstown 1.0
http://basicallybicycles.com/images/...stown_05_m.jpg
FRAMESET: Altair 1 aluminum
MSRP (USD) $520.00
FORK: RST CT-COM2 with 50mm travel
DRIVETRAIN: SR Suntour CR400 forged aluminum crankset, Shimano Deore derailleurs
WHEELS/TIRES: Formula sealed forged aluminum hubs, 36H with Kenda K-934 hybrid, 700 x 35c
BRAKESET: ProMax aluminum, linear pull
EXTRAS: Equipped with fenders, rack mounts and a comfort seat post
SIZES: 15", 17", 19", 21", 23"
COLOR: Gloss Black
WEIGHT: 32.2 lbs / 14.61 kg

Felt SRD92
http://www.feltracing.com/06/06_srd_...ges/srd_92.jpg
COLOR
Pewter
SIZES
650c x 47, 700c x 50,53,56,59,62
FRAME
Felt 7005 F-Lite Double-butted aluminum frame, forged dropouts, replaceable hanger with fender and rear rack mounts
FORK
Felt Carbon with 1-1/8” CrMo Steerer
HEADSET
Aheadset 1-1/8”
STEM
Felt AD-22 Alloy Forged Adjustable
HANDLEBAR
Felt Alloy Ergonomic Drop, Ø31.8mm
SHIFTERS
Shimano Sora, 24 speed
F/DERAILLEUR
Shimano Sora
R/DERAILLEUR
Shimano Tiagra
CRANKSET
FSA/RPM 3-PC Alloy, 52/42/30T
CHAIN
Z92 Silver
FREEWHEEL
Shimano 8-Speed Cassette, 12-25T
BRAKE LEVERS
Shimano ST-R220 with Tektro Bar Top Levers
BRAKES
Long Reach Dual Pivot with Cartridge Brake Pads
SADDLE
Felt Anatomic Comfort Design with Dual Density Base and CrMo Rails
SEAT POST
Felt Carbon/Alloy Micro-Adjust
RIMS
Alex ALX-R450 Aluminum Double-Wall Rims with CSW Braking Surface
TIRE
Felt Inertia with Flat Protection 700c x 28 (650c x 26)
SPOKES
Stainless 14G
PEDALS
Dual Sided Pedal, Aluminum Clipless One Side Flat One Side
MSRP
$739 [we sell it for much less]

That felt is very nice for being light and equipped.

Fuji Cross Comp
http://www.touringcyclist.com/img/b/14961a.jpg
FRAMESET: Altair 2 lite custom butted aluminum w/ integrated head tube
FORK: FC-990 Fuji bonded carbon cross w/ 1 1/8" Cro-Moly steerer
DRIVETRAIN: New TruVativ Elita Cross BXP, 39/48T chainring, Shimano & SRAM mix
WHEELS: Alex DC-19, 32H double walled rims, double butted stainless spokes
STEM, SEATPOST: Ritchey Logic Comp stem, Fuji Ultralite Alloy seatpost
SIZES: 49cm, 52cm, 54cm, 56cm, 58cm, 61cm
COLOR: White / Gloss Black
WEIGHT: 21.6 lbs / 9.80 kg
MSRP (USD) $1,070.00 [bike sells for around $800 at most shops]

That's just three options. I liked the look of the Trek Portland as well, but I couldn't even find a price on them. I didn't list the Fuji Touring bike which is about $750, steel and weighs 28.6 lbs.

Check around, but there's just three options for you.

the fuji shown is very upright, but I willcheck LBS for the other 2. Thank you for the suggestions.

The Rohlof is your sticking point. And a stock bike with decent disc brakes under $1000 is also asking for a lot. If were you I'd seriously rethink the Rohlof add on and go for something like a Jamis Coda with Kool Stop salmon brake pads. Or you could buy something like the Coda and swap out the fork and add a disc brake.

If you choose to go with a Rohlof in the future you should really use a frame that was meant to go with a Rohlof.

Good advice for anyone who cares about bang for the buck.

If you are only going 8 miles each way along a bike path I doubt you will need much gear range- a rolhoff would be expensive overkill.

The reason I was considering an internal Hub was based on the fact that I want to learn how to be maintenance-independent from LBSs. But that is correct, if you think, I can take the bike twice a year for 10 years and still would be cheaper than the Rolhof.

Thank you for sharing your opinions.

Adjusting a derailleur isn't all that difficult and is an easy skill to pick up by reading an online how to. I wouldn't let a desire of not wanting to deal with LBS labor charges be the deciding factor in buying a pricy bit of kit (though by all accounts the Rolhofs are sweet).

I realized that there is a BIG difference between the 1000 dollar bikes and the 1400-1600 Bikes (bigger than between the 600 bikes to the 1000 bikes).

Trek Soho, Specialized Sirrus Sport Disc and Jamis Koda may be the way I will go. Just will have to wait 'til the budget goes to 1500-1600 instead of 900-1000. :)

Thank you again for all feedback. I am considering buying the "blue book", a bike stand and start learning more about bike's anatomy. After taking Advanced Neuro Anatomy (all about "wiring") and Oral and maxillo Facial Surgery (disassemblying and putting things back together better than before) it can't be THAT HARD.

Bike maintnance is not only fairly easy (they are simple machines when it comes down to it), it is also a great deal of fun. If you want to really learn, build this bike up from the frame. It may cost a little more in the end (tools, etc.), but you will learn a great deal and have a bike that is all yours.

That would be a long shot for a beginner, but I am considering buying some 80 bucks garage sale Mal-Wart bike and break it down to the cell level to see what it is all about...

Another problem that I have is time...full time job, full time student, still need time to share my love with my significant other...

It almost sounds like you are specing a serious trekking bike more than a commuter.

Great suggestions above. I'd skip any suspension, unlikely you will need it with your riding. That will save money and weight. There are many more cheap suspensions than good ones and the good ones cost. The parts of Florida I have been in have maybe 20' of rise? No need for a disc brake unless you plan on hauling huge loads in the wet. Get better pads, the Kool Stop Salmons are widely seen as having some of the best stopping power for non disc brakes (it's all I have stopping me and wife on a tandem pulling ~120lbs of kids, stuff and trailer).

You could easily (price wise) get what you want in the used market. Even if it is more road oriented, you could swap in a flat bar and other parts you want for relatively cheap and really put your mark on the bike. Deciding to modify components to what you want may be a bit much at this point but with the saved money you could probably still come out ahead if you had a shop do it. It may sound scary to do it yourself, but consider it an adventure into the cerebellum. Gross motor skills only, it's wrenching.

Sounds like what you really need is a fixed gear. With a disc brake front wheel. No cassettes, no gear shifters to buy, no derailleurs. Can't think of anything better as a commuter for 8 miles.

Now there is an idea! Check out the Redline 925. If I was going to buy a commuter off the shelf, that would be the one.

The Jamis Coda Comp is well within your price range at a MSRP of $825.
http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/bikes/06_codacomp.html

http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/bikes/..._CODA_COMP.jpg