Folksnake

Hi All--
Just wondering: I want to lock my front suspension (the up and down as I ride a hard hill is bothering me). Seems to sap some power out of me. So I want to convert the suspension fork I have into a rigid by locking the shocks, but I'm pretty sure my fork is not adjustable. Atleast I can see no way of adjusting it--just these plastic plugs on top of the shck body that don't seem to do anything at all. Is there any way that has been discussed to do a down and dirty lock job on it? Some kind of kluge job?

Otherwise, I may have to change to a rigid fork. I've never done that, no idea what's involved...but I guess I'm game, if it wouldn't cost too much.

Oh--I have a a Marin San Rafael--one of their hybrid "city" bikes. I love it otherwise...

Thanks in advance!

dalmore

As a teenager, I locked the forks on my motorcycle by hitting a tree. Can't really recommend that method. It's a bit imprecise. But I rode a "rigid" motorcycle for a summer while I earned enough to get new forks.

I recommend you look into getting a rigid fork. It'll be lighter which will help with the energy sapping you mention too.

vw addict

Take the caps of the tops of the legs and pour in concrete. VIOLLA!!!! Lockout.

Retro Grouch 

There's lots of different kinds of suspension forks so there might be several, quite different, correct answers to this question.

If you have a relatively low end fork, it probably just has some elastomer springs inside one or both fork legs. If that's the case, replace the elastomers with a section of wood dowel and you'll have an instant rigid fork.

For about $50.00 or so you could buy a brand, spanking new suspension adjusted Surley fork that will do the same thing much more elegantly and shave a couple of pounds off of the front of your bike. There aren't too many ways on a bicycle that you can save that much weight at one time.

well biked

I agree with the above regarding the Surley suspension-adjusted rigid fork. For the type of bike you have, you don't need a suspension fork anyway, it's main purpose is to sell the bike on the showroom floor: "oh, and this one has suspension, so it's better." For a bike ridden on pavement, nothing could be further from the truth.

Folksnake

Thanks all--
I'd do the dowel thing--sounds like an easy experimental fix--but I don't know how to safely get these plastic plugs off. They don't turn by hand (there's no place to get a good purchase on them with my fingers) and they'll get badly scarred with a wrench. Padding, I guess?

The new fork sounds good--might be the best bet of them all. Surley is a good brand? Price sure is right...

My fork says "InSync Odessa 160" on the side; the bike is from 2000.

Stacey

Either wrap the plastic insrrts with a rag before applying the wrench or maybe they'll just pop off with a screwdriver under the lip.

Banzai

Beat me to it!

Retro Grouch 

Forget the plastic plugs. Look for an allen bolt on the very bottom of each fork leg.

TO11MTM

Does the top section of the fork tines look like it has a number of splined notches made of plastic? If so, there is a tool that can be used to engage them...

khuon

Please don't do the dowel thing. This has come up before and long-story-short: it's a bad idea. I'd consider going for the real solution: either a suspension fork with lockout capability or swap over to a full-rigid suspension-corrected fork if you know for certain you will never need suspension.

Surly is a good manufacturer of rigid forks. Another one to look at is the Kona Project 2 which sells for around $60. If you're looking for a cheaper solution, try a fork from Tange. Althugh, I'm not necessarily promoting the following online shop, I would suggest you look at their webpages to give you an idea of what's available... https://www.bikemannetwork.com/biking/c/COMPFKMTNR

Note that the critical measurement you will want to pay close attention to is the axle-to-crown (AtC). You should choose a fork that closely matches the AtC of your current fork in order to preserve the handling traits. Picking a fork with a shorter AtC than your current fork will both drop the front end, increase the effective steepness on your headangle and also quicken the steering. A fork with a longer AtC will raise the front end, decrease the effective steepness of your head angle and make the steering more lax.

redtires

Yes, the Surley is surely (slaps knee) a good fork. Check out Nashbar too, they have rigid, suspension corrected forks for nearly on the cuff prices also.