Can't be a worn transmission already!
08-25-06, 03:04 PM
#1
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Can't be a worn transmission already!
Hello!
I Purchased a Specilized Hardrock Sport in Oct 2005. It has about 500km on it.
Today I bought a new chain - 8 speed SRAM powerlink. Measured it against the old chain, broke it at that location and installed it on the bike.
When the chain is in the smallest chainring and I apply force to the pedals (riding uphill) the chain seems to skip, as if it was jumping a cog. This does not happen in either the middle or large chainrings, only the small ring (small ring is used the most obviously).
I called my LBS and they said it sounds as if the transmission was worn out!! How can this be? It only has 500km on it and they are STEEL rings. I could accept it if the rings where aluminum but not steel.
The last ride I went on, with the old chain, it did not do this. So I'm thinking that, now with the new chain, the rear cassette and small ring are "unmatched" with the new chain....?
I guess my ride tomorrow is off, I don't have time to fix it tonight.
Digger
I Purchased a Specilized Hardrock Sport in Oct 2005. It has about 500km on it.
Today I bought a new chain - 8 speed SRAM powerlink. Measured it against the old chain, broke it at that location and installed it on the bike.
When the chain is in the smallest chainring and I apply force to the pedals (riding uphill) the chain seems to skip, as if it was jumping a cog. This does not happen in either the middle or large chainrings, only the small ring (small ring is used the most obviously).
I called my LBS and they said it sounds as if the transmission was worn out!! How can this be? It only has 500km on it and they are STEEL rings. I could accept it if the rings where aluminum but not steel.
The last ride I went on, with the old chain, it did not do this. So I'm thinking that, now with the new chain, the rear cassette and small ring are "unmatched" with the new chain....?
I guess my ride tomorrow is off, I don't have time to fix it tonight.
Digger
08-25-06, 03:32 PM
#3
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Just replace the small cog (13t I think)
This should serve as a reminder to keep the drivetrain clean, lubed and inspected frequently.
This should serve as a reminder to keep the drivetrain clean, lubed and inspected frequently.
08-25-06, 03:33 PM
#4
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Perhaps not.
I've encountered something like this with brand-new SRAM chains, only it happens on the big ring. Would a more accurate description be that it's slipping around the casette, rather than between gears? After about a month of good riding, regular cleaning and lubing the problem goes away. I have no bloody idea whats causing it and was originally considering that perhaps the exit angle from the final tooth was too steep (really only happens on 14t casette sprocket and smaller, with a 48t big ring)....
I've encountered something like this with brand-new SRAM chains, only it happens on the big ring. Would a more accurate description be that it's slipping around the casette, rather than between gears? After about a month of good riding, regular cleaning and lubing the problem goes away. I have no bloody idea whats causing it and was originally considering that perhaps the exit angle from the final tooth was too steep (really only happens on 14t casette sprocket and smaller, with a 48t big ring)....
08-25-06, 04:17 PM
#5
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by powers2b
Just replace the small cog (13t I think)
This should serve as a reminder to keep the drivetrain clean, lubed and inspected frequently.
This should serve as a reminder to keep the drivetrain clean, lubed and inspected frequently.
But I guess it does make sense as the smallest ring is the one used the most and it DOES only happen on the smallest ring.
I own 4 bikes - 1 mtb, 1 road, 1 touring and a commuter all of which are kept in top condition.
Originally Posted by falanx
I've encountered something like this with brand-new SRAM chains, only it happens on the big ring. Would a more accurate description be that it's slipping around the casette, rather than between gears? After about a month of good riding, regular cleaning and lubing the problem goes away. I have no bloody idea whats causing it and was originally considering that perhaps the exit angle from the final tooth was too steep (really only happens on 14t casette sprocket and smaller, with a 48t big ring).....
I guess I am use to road bikes and the fact that things last for quite some time. The road bike I have is a 1998 (45,000km) and still has the original brake pads! I'm on my second set of pads for the MTB bike!
Mtbing is a maintenance nightmare!
Digger
08-25-06, 08:50 PM
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Whenever you have used a chain and cassette & chainrings together for a while they wear together. the chain stretches, and the rings and cassettes wear to fit the new chain size. No two drive trains wear to the exact same specifications. So any time you replace ONE part, it won't mesh properly with the other parts. This is the cause of th skipping, If you watch your chain closely, it will actually ride up on top of the teeth of some parts of the more worn chainring and cassettes. and you can see the grooves where the chain is supposed to sit, will not be completely round, they're more ovalized, because they've been ground out.
the new chain may mesh with some of the cogs in the cassette, because they weren't used much so weren't worn to match the old chain, they're still basically new. but alas, they don't sell that stuff separately, just a whole new cassette. but you can replace JUST the worn chainrings, say, if you only rode in the big ring.
But you should replace the whole system together (chain, rings, cassette) to avoid this miss-meshing of parts. ask your mechanic if any of the chainrings are salvageable.
And as far as mountain bike vs road durability, I'd bet if you took your road bike onto the dirt trails, it fair the same or worse. more dust in the drivetrain, makes for faster wear.
the new chain may mesh with some of the cogs in the cassette, because they weren't used much so weren't worn to match the old chain, they're still basically new. but alas, they don't sell that stuff separately, just a whole new cassette. but you can replace JUST the worn chainrings, say, if you only rode in the big ring.
But you should replace the whole system together (chain, rings, cassette) to avoid this miss-meshing of parts. ask your mechanic if any of the chainrings are salvageable.
And as far as mountain bike vs road durability, I'd bet if you took your road bike onto the dirt trails, it fair the same or worse. more dust in the drivetrain, makes for faster wear.
08-26-06, 03:22 AM
#7
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by orange leader
Whenever you have used a chain and cassette & chainrings together for a while they wear together. the chain stretches, and the rings and cassettes wear to fit the new chain size. No two drive trains wear to the exact same specifications. So any time you replace ONE part, it won't mesh properly with the other parts. This is the cause of th skipping, If you watch your chain closely, it will actually ride up on top of the teeth of some parts of the more worn chainring and cassettes. and you can see the grooves where the chain is supposed to sit, will not be completely round, they're more ovalized, because they've been ground out.
the new chain may mesh with some of the cogs in the cassette, because they weren't used much so weren't worn to match the old chain, they're still basically new. but alas, they don't sell that stuff separately, just a whole new cassette. but you can replace JUST the worn chainrings, say, if you only rode in the big ring.
But you should replace the whole system together (chain, rings, cassette) to avoid this miss-meshing of parts. ask your mechanic if any of the chainrings are salvageable.
And as far as mountain bike vs road durability, I'd bet if you took your road bike onto the dirt trails, it fair the same or worse. more dust in the drivetrain, makes for faster wear.
the new chain may mesh with some of the cogs in the cassette, because they weren't used much so weren't worn to match the old chain, they're still basically new. but alas, they don't sell that stuff separately, just a whole new cassette. but you can replace JUST the worn chainrings, say, if you only rode in the big ring.
But you should replace the whole system together (chain, rings, cassette) to avoid this miss-meshing of parts. ask your mechanic if any of the chainrings are salvageable.
And as far as mountain bike vs road durability, I'd bet if you took your road bike onto the dirt trails, it fair the same or worse. more dust in the drivetrain, makes for faster wear.
Ah well, there's next weekend.Yes, if I took my road bike on the trail I'd have the same problem - it's the dirt, water and mud of course. But WOW, the maintenance on MT bikes is way off the scale compared to a road bike. No doubt I'll have to pay more attenton to the MTB maintenance.
It just shocked me that a ring needs to be replaced after only 400 - 500km, truly amazing!
08-26-06, 03:48 AM
#8
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There are at least six conditions that I have experienced with chains skipping.
One: Worn chain.
Two: Worn cassette/cogs
Three: A binding chain link or stiff chain link; which will cause the chain to not follow a path around the cog and rather skip until the stiff link has passed.
Four: Rear derailleur chain wrap adjustment.
Five: Improper chain length
Six: Worn chanin and casstte/cogs; this is very common with equipment that has not been maintained as they do wear together.
At 500 km service and a new chain I would considered the stiff binding link condition first.
One: Worn chain.
Two: Worn cassette/cogs
Three: A binding chain link or stiff chain link; which will cause the chain to not follow a path around the cog and rather skip until the stiff link has passed.
Four: Rear derailleur chain wrap adjustment.
Five: Improper chain length
Six: Worn chanin and casstte/cogs; this is very common with equipment that has not been maintained as they do wear together.
At 500 km service and a new chain I would considered the stiff binding link condition first.
08-26-06, 05:36 AM
#9
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Check your rear derailer high limit adjustment and cable tension. Assuming the original chain was not Sram, perhaps the difference in the faceplates is enough to cause the chain to want to ride up the next cog's ramps, making it "skate" on the smaller cog.
08-26-06, 10:58 AM
#10
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The thing is, when I say I've discovered this with new SRAM chains, I've discovered it on completely new transmission builds - new casette, new rings and new chain...
