Cleaning a new chain?
 

I'm replacing my chain for the first time and had a quick question. I'm using an SRAM PC-58, and when I took it out of the package I noticed it was greasy.

Should I degrease and clean the chain before putting it on my bike?

I'm assuming that since its factory oil and clean, that I should just put it on and oil it up without cleaning it, but I thought I'd seek another opinion before going that route. I couldn't find any comment about this on Sheldon's site or Parktools. Thanks.

You can just put the chain on! I've found that the lubricant that comes on SRAM chains works just fine.

By the way: Some people have all kinds of crazy theories about the goop that comes on the chain, saying that it harms the chain or isn't a lubricant, or kills puppies, etc etc. I worried about this the first time I put on a new chain, but it worked fine so I've decided to ignore those people :rolleyes:

That there's what ya call "cosmoline" and you need to take it off before installing the chain. It isn't a lube, but rather a protectant. Toss it on a soda bottle with some gasoline or spend the big bucks for one of those fancy bikeshop degreasers. Either way, when you're done install it on your bike, lube it and you're good to go.

Here we go! Theres been a lot of posts about chain cleaning lately so I'm only going to bet on 2 pages of posts for this question.

From everything I've been able to read, cosmoline is a viscous oily material that is BOTH a rust protectant AND a lubricant. I don't see any good reason why it shouldn't be used as a chain lube other than the fact that it isn't typically sold as such.

By the way, PLEASE don't use gasoline as a degreaser :( It's mildly toxic, flammable, and not safe to be poured down the drain. Use something like Simple Green or another citrus degreaser, which costs about $5 for a Gallon at Home Depot. Read this thread: https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?p=225295

I clean them new. It takes 5 minutes to clean/rinse, and I dont have to worry about anything.

The directions that come with SRAM chains now go so far as to say "do not remove the factory lubricant" or something to that affect. Best lube your chain will ever see. When the chain finally does get noisy, lube with an oil based lube sparingly, wipe off excess, ride on-

Wow, I had no idea that this was one of THOSE kinds of questions (although I should have guessed--it's about chains, right?).

Even though this is my first chain, I've already chosen my religion and I'm a generic "CitruSolve in a Park chain cleaner, lightly oiled with Phil's tenacious oil" kind of guy. Does that change anyone's answer?

You only need to remove it if you use a wax-in-solvent style of lube. This needs bare metal for good adhesion.
Wet lube or spray can just be added as you need on the new chain.

Right on :) You've stepped into another hornet's nest.

As for your "religion", all I can say is that it's very similar to my own. After several years in the heathen wilderness of using paint thinner to degrease my chains, I saw the light late one night in my basement and was converted to the Righteous Path. I use Simple Green and a knock-off generic chain cleaner, but otherwise we're in agreement. Welcome to the flock, my brother. Care to wage a holy war against the infidels?

My $0.02 into the multipage thread: I use SRAM and always remove the factory grease/protectant/stuff (call it what you want) and apply my favorite lube. To me, a wet chain is a dirt/gunk magnet. I ride off-road and prefer "dry" lubes.

(If you really want to see a long thread, mention the words "WD40" and "lubricant" in the title and sit back and watch the train wreck!)

+11111111111! I tried to actually read one of those, chemical engineers started going off on what "rust" is, and if steel was considered iron or not. I almost fell asleep.

+11111111111! I tried to actually read one of those, chemical engineers started going off on what "rust" is, and if steel was considered iron or not. I almost fell asleep. I'm about to start a war in a new thread if you want to check it out, it's going to be called "I HATE WHITE LIGHTNING"...Should bee a hoot.;)

That is also what you call myth. That "cosmoline" on the chain is the best lube the chain will EVER see.

For ****s sake, don't go out of your way to take it off and apply inferior lube. This myth just never dies.

I've dealt with cosmoline for decades dealing with military weapons. It is not a "lube". It is far too thick. First ride on the road is going to pick up all sorts of road gunk.

The stuff that's on SRAM chains (which is what the OP asked about) is something SRAM calls GLEITMO, whatever that is. I know what cosmoline is, too, and I gotta say this GLEITMO stuff sure reminds me of it. But anyway, SRAM touts it as a superior lubricant, and instructs not to remove it. Personally, I take a rag dampened with mineral spirits and wipe down the outside of a new chain with it, to help prevent grit from sticking to it. For dry, gritty conditions off road, see the current "I hate White Lightning" thread. :rolleyes:

This is the correct answer.

Lightly degrease off the "sticky" stuff, but leave the lube inside the chain.

This is the type of misleading posts that always pop up on "What do I do for a new chain?" threads. It isn't cosmoline and it is an effective lube. Wipe the exterior with a rag to remove the excess and leave the rest alone.

+1, Exactly! I use a 50% solution of Simple Green in an Ultrasound cleaner to remove most, but not all of the factory protecting material (cosmoline, I think). Then I lube with dry lube + Teflon, I've had a lot of success with quiet chains using this approach.
I've also used a new chain on a MTB with the cosmoline on it. They should call that stuff 'Dirt Magnet'. Once I went about 4 or 5 trail miles, there's so much dirt on the chain it's like rubbing your gears with sand paper. Never again.
I also tried a strong solvent, kerosene, once on a brand new SHimano chain. It removed all the factory coating. After rinsing, the chain promptly turned to rust while it dried, before I could lube it. I was able to recover the chain using oil lube followed by dry lube, but to this day, that chain is prone to rust. All my other Shimano, Sram and my one Sachs chain(s) are cleaned with Simple Green. Not one has a rusting problem.

Excuse me. Chemist, not chemical engineer. Their just glorified plumbers, we're the guys with all the ideas;)

An old joke: A chemical engineer walks into a bathroom just before a chemist. Both of them go over to the urinal and do their business. Afterwards, they both zip up and the chemical engineer heads for the sink and starts wash his hands, the chemist starts to head for the door. The chemical engineer says, "Hey buddy, in chemical engineering school they taught us to wash our hands after going to the bathroom." The chemist turns to him and says, "Well in chemical school they taught us not to pee on our hands." :D

LOL! You made my day!

Definitely DO NOT REMOVE the factory lube, it is better than anything you could replace it with.

Thanks for calling my attention to the oversight, I've revised my chains article to include this important information: http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#factory

Sheldon "If It Ain't Broke..." Brown

I've never liked that goo that new chains come coated with. Whether or not it is a good lubricant, it attracts dirt and dust like crazy. I take new chains, drop them in an old peanut butter jar, slosh in a cup or so of kerosene, and shake it up good. Lots of gray icky stuff will come out of the chain in the kerosene. I pull the chain out, lay it on some newspaper on the floor, and go along it slowly with a compressed air nozzle, blasting air through the innards of the chain. lots of kerosene and gray stuff comes out the back and is deposited on the newspaper. I find that two passes (one on each side of the chain) with the air nozzle is is enough to very effectively dry the chain. Say hello to fresh, shiny, clean, non-sticky chain. I install it on the bike (after cleaning the drivetrain in a similar manner) and apply Pro Link, my current favorite chain lube. The chain stays clean for a long time and runs very quietly.

The kerosene in the jar can be left to sit for a few days, and all of the sediment and goop will settle to the bottom. Just pour off the kerosene on top into a different jar to be used again and again. once the much on the bottom of the first jar dries up completely, it can be wiped out of the jar with a rag.