Liquid Wrench
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Liquid Wrench
Anyone know what the difference is between makeup and uses for LW "Supre lubricant and Penetrant" and LW "Penetrating Oil"? They are different products, but their labels bear similar markings. I'm trying to figure out which one might be better for loosening a seized seatpost. (Aluminum in steal). And BTW, I don't need any discussion on using ammonia or other things to free the 'post. This is the end of the line of my tactics.
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Hey Peri'. Hope I'm not earning your ire over your admonition, ". . .don't need any discussion on using ammonia or other things. . ." buuuuut have you tried Herr Brown's 15 tried-and-true techniques? [Cringe] Anyway, here 'tis just in case. . .https://sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html His article says among many other things, ". . .penetrating oil is made specifically for this purpose."
Perhaps Sheldon "Get a Bigger Hammer" Brown could weigh in here if he passes by.
Perhaps Sheldon "Get a Bigger Hammer" Brown could weigh in here if he passes by.
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Use both since one is as useless as the other for al stuck in steel. Try and shrink the post by blowing CO2 with a tire inflator down the post.
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Thanks for the info. I've done everything Sheldon Brown recommended and more. See posting in Classic & Vintage under my name for a very long discussion of the topic. I've not soaked the thing in ammonia for two weeks daily, as well as PBlaster for another ten days. Sawing is difficult, because if you see my thread referenced here, it's THICK. I just thought I'd try the Liquid Wrench. Lube actually worked over the course of a few days with some severely stuck pedals.
I think the final solution might be dissolution with lye, but that will be a most messy business...
I think the final solution might be dissolution with lye, but that will be a most messy business...
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PB Blaster is the best penetrant I've used in 30 years of auto mechanics. If that didn't do it then Liquid Wrench certainly won't either as PB Blaster is much better. Besides, LW stinks.
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Originally Posted by McDave
PB Blaster is the best penetrant I've used in 30 years of auto mechanics. If that didn't do it then Liquid Wrench certainly won't either as PB Blaster is much better. Besides, LW stinks.
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+1 for PB Blaster.
While LW is truly putrid smelling, PB ain't exactly Chanel. It's much more effective that LW and its neon orange color helps you see where it's going. Plus, the label on the can is pretty cool, in a bizarre sort of way. John
While LW is truly putrid smelling, PB ain't exactly Chanel. It's much more effective that LW and its neon orange color helps you see where it's going. Plus, the label on the can is pretty cool, in a bizarre sort of way. John
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The more people talk up PB Blaster, the more my hope fades. Like I said, I applied the stuff for two weeks to no avail. Not a budge. The smell continues to linger in my apt. 2 weeks after I last applied it. I love that can: it's straight out of the back of one of my old Marvel comics.
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If you have a vice attached to a solid foundation, you could try...as a last resort, to place the seat post in the vice then try moving the frame back and forth to see if that will break it free.
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Originally Posted by Toyman991
+1 for PB Blaster.
While LW is truly putrid smelling, PB ain't exactly Chanel. It's much more effective that LW and its neon orange color helps you see where it's going. Plus, the label on the can is pretty cool, in a bizarre sort of way. John
While LW is truly putrid smelling, PB ain't exactly Chanel. It's much more effective that LW and its neon orange color helps you see where it's going. Plus, the label on the can is pretty cool, in a bizarre sort of way. John
Now go out and find a styro-foam cup......
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Don't know if you have already tried this (didn't see your other post), but might be worth a try.
Take the seat off, put a wood block over the head of the seat post, and strike the block with a hammer.
If it drives the post further into the seat tube, who cares, at that point you will have busted it loose, and can now remove.
Take the seat off, put a wood block over the head of the seat post, and strike the block with a hammer.
If it drives the post further into the seat tube, who cares, at that point you will have busted it loose, and can now remove.