Shimano six speed cassette hubs?
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Shimano six speed cassette hubs?
I see these once in a while on eBay. I've seen both road and mtb versions. They sell cheap because nobody wants them. I can't find any mention of them on the Harris site or anywhere else. Can somebody tell me about them? What is the spacing on the road hubs? I know the mtn hubs are spaced 130mm so perhaps the road hubs are spaced 126mm. What I have in mind is to keep the 126mm spacing and change the freehub body to a seven speed. I found some wheelsets online with 105 six speed rear cassette hubs and Superbe Pro front hubs for a great price and I want to use them with my seven speed parts on a Fuji mixte I'm building. I can respace the Fuji to 130 if I have to.
Here's a link to a six speed Deore XT:
https://tinyurl.com/lyal2
I can't find the wheelsets right now. I don't feel well. I think I ate some bad Chinese food.
Here's a link to a six speed Deore XT:
https://tinyurl.com/lyal2
I can't find the wheelsets right now. I don't feel well. I think I ate some bad Chinese food.
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some of the road hubs are 126mm, like the shimano 600 ax ones I have (6 speed, freehub, threaded sprocket acts as lockring) and I guess the later ones are 130mm. However the freehub body (on mine at least) is not the same as later freehub bodies - it isn't held on with a 10mm hex bolt but rather it's a press on. A puller tool is used to extract it from the hub body.
- Joel
- Joel
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I'd thought that freehubs were produced starting at 7-speed systems. I don't think there ever was a 6-speed cassette hub.
Old MTN hubs were spaced at 130mm, 7-speed and 8/9/10-speed MTB hubs are spaced at 135mm.
Old road hubs (6-speed freewheel, 7-speed freewheel or cassette) were spaced 126mm, newer 8/9/10 speed road hubs are spaced at 130mm.
Old MTN hubs were spaced at 130mm, 7-speed and 8/9/10-speed MTB hubs are spaced at 135mm.
Old road hubs (6-speed freewheel, 7-speed freewheel or cassette) were spaced 126mm, newer 8/9/10 speed road hubs are spaced at 130mm.
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"c" is not a unit that measures tire width
"c" is not a unit that measures tire width
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dura-ace EX series, 1978:
https://www.wooljersey.com/gallery/d/...-5/Page+08.jpg
This is all fresh in my mind because I'm building a bike with that groupset at the moment.
- Joel
https://www.wooljersey.com/gallery/d/...-5/Page+08.jpg
This is all fresh in my mind because I'm building a bike with that groupset at the moment.
- Joel
#5
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Originally Posted by Dirtdrop
I see these once in a while on eBay. I've seen both road and mtb versions. They sell cheap because nobody wants them. I can't find any mention of them on the Harris site or anywhere else. Can somebody tell me about them? What is the spacing on the road hubs? I know the mtn hubs are spaced 130mm so perhaps the road hubs are spaced 126mm. What I have in mind is to keep the 126mm spacing and change the freehub body to a seven speed. I found some wheelsets online with 105 six speed rear cassette hubs and Superbe Pro front hubs for a great price and I want to use them with my seven speed parts on a Fuji mixte I'm building. I can respace the Fuji to 130 if I have to.
Here's a link to a six speed Deore XT:
https://tinyurl.com/lyal2
I can't find the wheelsets right now. I don't feel well. I think I ate some bad Chinese food.
Here's a link to a six speed Deore XT:
https://tinyurl.com/lyal2
I can't find the wheelsets right now. I don't feel well. I think I ate some bad Chinese food.
Tim
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I don't feel well. I think I ate some bad Chinese food.
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Originally Posted by timcupery
I'd thought that freehubs were produced starting at 7-speed systems. I don't think there ever was a 6-speed cassette hub.
Old MTN hubs were spaced at 130mm, 7-speed and 8/9/10-speed MTB hubs are spaced at 135mm.
Old road hubs (6-speed freewheel, 7-speed freewheel or cassette) were spaced 126mm, newer 8/9/10 speed road hubs are spaced at 130mm.
Old MTN hubs were spaced at 130mm, 7-speed and 8/9/10-speed MTB hubs are spaced at 135mm.
Old road hubs (6-speed freewheel, 7-speed freewheel or cassette) were spaced 126mm, newer 8/9/10 speed road hubs are spaced at 130mm.
Thanks everyone else for the help. It looks to me like my idea will work. I just hope I can find those wheelsets again.
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Yeah, I was surprised by their existence. Your link wasn't convincing at all - it was on eBay and sellers get confused all the time there. The link that tomacropod posted about the 6-speed Dura-Ace cassette hub from 1978, showed that 6-speed cassette hubs did indeed exist. I still doubt that the one on eBay was 6-speed, although it's certainly possible.
That said, if you've got a frame with 126mm spacing, and want to keep the spacing exactly as-is, you should get a 7-speed rear cassette hub. They're common enough and you can still buy cassettes for them.
That said, if you've got a frame with 126mm spacing, and want to keep the spacing exactly as-is, you should get a 7-speed rear cassette hub. They're common enough and you can still buy cassettes for them.
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Originally Posted by timcupery
Yeah, I was surprised by their existence. Your link wasn't convincing at all - it was on eBay and sellers get confused all the time there. The link that tomacropod posted about the 6-speed Dura-Ace cassette hub from 1978, showed that 6-speed cassette hubs did indeed exist. I still doubt that the one on eBay was 6-speed, although it's certainly possible.
That said, if you've got a frame with 126mm spacing, and want to keep the spacing exactly as-is, you should get a 7-speed rear cassette hub. They're common enough and you can still buy cassettes for them.
That said, if you've got a frame with 126mm spacing, and want to keep the spacing exactly as-is, you should get a 7-speed rear cassette hub. They're common enough and you can still buy cassettes for them.
The point of getting the six speed wheelset is that I can get get it cheap, as I previously stated. I have the parts I'll need to convert it to seven speed. Seven speed wheelsets are getting to be hard to find, especially new.
I think you could use seven speed shifters an a six speed cassette, since they both have standard spacing.
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Originally Posted by tomacropod
some of the road hubs are 126mm, like the shimano 600 ax ones I have (6 speed, freehub, threaded sprocket acts as lockring) and I guess the later ones are 130mm. However the freehub body (on mine at least) is not the same as later freehub bodies - it isn't held on with a 10mm hex bolt but rather it's a press on. A puller tool is used to extract it from the hub body.
- Joel
- Joel
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Originally Posted by timcupery
I don't think there ever was a 6-speed cassette hub.
#13
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Steev is correct. They even did 5 speed freehubs. Some of the 6 speed freehubs were 120 mm OLN (rarely).
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Originally Posted by Steev
Uniglide freehubs. I have or had one (need to check the junk box). The earlier ones press fitted, later ones used the 10mm Allen bolt. Mine used the bolt, I'm going to build up a spare wheel with that hub and a hyperglide freehub. 126 mm spacing IIRC.
#15
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Originally Posted by masi61
I upgraded to 7 speed cassette body to go with a new 7 speed uniglide cassette (hard to come by) and I'm currently using MAVIC 7 speed downtube levers with some success. The 6 speed set up once adjusted worked a lot closer to "PERFECT" than the 7 speed. I've been tweaking and adjusting the 7 speed for the last 2 months
#16
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Originally Posted by Dirtdrop
I think you could use seven speed shifters an a six speed cassette, since they both have standard spacing.
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I have a set of Shimano 600 Uniglide cassette hubs (w. Mavic GP4 rims), and they have a 6-speed cassette on them (which is very worn now). They don't have the 10mm Allen bolt to remove the freehub, so I assume I have the press-on type. The hubs seem very well made, and the parts look and feel better quality than some newer Ultegra (2004) hubs I have.
Can anyone tell me if it is possible to remove the freehub from the old 600's and put on a Hyperglide 9-spd freehub so I can keep these as a spare pair of wheels? I guess this will also necessitate re-dishing the wheel if it's possible? I'm assuming it isn't because they're the press-on type, but I'm hoping I might be surprised!
Can anyone tell me if it is possible to remove the freehub from the old 600's and put on a Hyperglide 9-spd freehub so I can keep these as a spare pair of wheels? I guess this will also necessitate re-dishing the wheel if it's possible? I'm assuming it isn't because they're the press-on type, but I'm hoping I might be surprised!
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Originally Posted by Mark Fear
I have a set of Shimano 600 Uniglide cassette hubs (w. Mavic GP4 rims), and they have a 6-speed cassette on them (which is very worn now). They don't have the 10mm Allen bolt to remove the freehub, so I assume I have the press-on type. The hubs seem very well made, and the parts look and feel better quality than some newer Ultegra (2004) hubs I have.
Can anyone tell me if it is possible to remove the freehub from the old 600's and put on a Hyperglide 9-spd freehub so I can keep these as a spare pair of wheels? I guess this will also necessitate re-dishing the wheel if it's possible? I'm assuming it isn't because they're the press-on type, but I'm hoping I might be surprised!
Can anyone tell me if it is possible to remove the freehub from the old 600's and put on a Hyperglide 9-spd freehub so I can keep these as a spare pair of wheels? I guess this will also necessitate re-dishing the wheel if it's possible? I'm assuming it isn't because they're the press-on type, but I'm hoping I might be surprised!
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Originally Posted by lawkd
I wonder if you're having trouble dialing in the 7-speed shifting because you're using Mavic shifters instead of Shimano. In my experience, the 7-speed Shimano indexed shifting is flawless and as easy to adjust as the 6-speed.
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It is definitely a 6-speed cassette, and not a freewheel (I was surprised too given its apparent age). I can see the splined freehub underneath, and the uniglide threads on the outside end of the splines. I'm reluctant to carry on cycling with it as the teeth on the 2nd/3rd/4th and 5th cogs are all worn, almost down to a 'v' shaped point, whereas the 1st and 6th are both nice and square.
I understand from Sheldon Brown's site that I could simply buy some Hyperglide sprockets, file off the large spline from those and use my existing 12 tooth Uniglide sprocket as the locking sprocket. Have I interpreted that correctly?
Final question - what would happen using it with 9-speed Dura Ace shifters - presumably the indexing would be all out, but it would be possible to friction shift?
Many thanks for the help!
Mark
I understand from Sheldon Brown's site that I could simply buy some Hyperglide sprockets, file off the large spline from those and use my existing 12 tooth Uniglide sprocket as the locking sprocket. Have I interpreted that correctly?
Final question - what would happen using it with 9-speed Dura Ace shifters - presumably the indexing would be all out, but it would be possible to friction shift?
Many thanks for the help!
Mark
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Originally Posted by Mark Fear
It is definitely a 6-speed cassette, and not a freewheel (I was surprised too given its apparent age). I can see the splined freehub underneath, and the uniglide threads on the outside end of the splines. I'm reluctant to carry on cycling with it as the teeth on the 2nd/3rd/4th and 5th cogs are all worn, almost down to a 'v' shaped point, whereas the 1st and 6th are both nice and square.
I understand from Sheldon Brown's site that I could simply buy some Hyperglide sprockets, file off the large spline from those and use my existing 12 tooth Uniglide sprocket as the locking sprocket. Have I interpreted that correctly?
Final question - what would happen using it with 9-speed Dura Ace shifters - presumably the indexing would be all out, but it would be possible to friction shift?
Many thanks for the help!
Mark
I understand from Sheldon Brown's site that I could simply buy some Hyperglide sprockets, file off the large spline from those and use my existing 12 tooth Uniglide sprocket as the locking sprocket. Have I interpreted that correctly?
Final question - what would happen using it with 9-speed Dura Ace shifters - presumably the indexing would be all out, but it would be possible to friction shift?
Many thanks for the help!
Mark
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Sorry - I should have explained better!
I have a new (well new to me - got them second hand on eBay) pair of Mavic CXP33 clincher rims (got fed up with tubulars) on Ultegra 6500 hubs, on which I have put a 9-speed Ultegra cassette, and will use with a brand new pair of 9-speed Dura Ace downtube shifters - I was too tight to shell out for new 9-speed brifters when I'm currently only 'dipping my toe back in the water' after 12 or so years off my bike through laziness.
The GP4/Shimano 600 Uniglide combo are my old wheels, which are missing a few spokes and could generally do with some TLC, but they are nice wheels so I don't want to simply throw them away. I was thinking that I could sort the worn cogs out, put in some new spokes and true them up, and use them as a spare wheelset. That obviously means I'll need to use a 6-speed cassette with the rest of the bike rigged for my primary 9-speed wheels, so I won't want to be meddling with derailleur adjustments too much if I have it all trimmed up for those.
If I make it through the winter and am still taking it seriously, I plan to buy a whole new rig next spring with a properly integrated groupset etc - I just want what I have at hand to get me through to then.
Hope that makes more sense and you don't think I'm raving mad any more!
I have a new (well new to me - got them second hand on eBay) pair of Mavic CXP33 clincher rims (got fed up with tubulars) on Ultegra 6500 hubs, on which I have put a 9-speed Ultegra cassette, and will use with a brand new pair of 9-speed Dura Ace downtube shifters - I was too tight to shell out for new 9-speed brifters when I'm currently only 'dipping my toe back in the water' after 12 or so years off my bike through laziness.
The GP4/Shimano 600 Uniglide combo are my old wheels, which are missing a few spokes and could generally do with some TLC, but they are nice wheels so I don't want to simply throw them away. I was thinking that I could sort the worn cogs out, put in some new spokes and true them up, and use them as a spare wheelset. That obviously means I'll need to use a 6-speed cassette with the rest of the bike rigged for my primary 9-speed wheels, so I won't want to be meddling with derailleur adjustments too much if I have it all trimmed up for those.
If I make it through the winter and am still taking it seriously, I plan to buy a whole new rig next spring with a properly integrated groupset etc - I just want what I have at hand to get me through to then.
Hope that makes more sense and you don't think I'm raving mad any more!
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Originally Posted by Mark Fear
Sorry - I should have explained better!
I have a new (well new to me - got them second hand on eBay) pair of Mavic CXP33 clincher rims (got fed up with tubulars) on Ultegra 6500 hubs, on which I have put a 9-speed Ultegra cassette, and will use with a brand new pair of 9-speed Dura Ace downtube shifters - I was too tight to shell out for new 9-speed brifters when I'm currently only 'dipping my toe back in the water' after 12 or so years off my bike through laziness.
The GP4/Shimano 600 Uniglide combo are my old wheels, which are missing a few spokes and could generally do with some TLC, but they are nice wheels so I don't want to simply throw them away. I was thinking that I could sort the worn cogs out, put in some new spokes and true them up, and use them as a spare wheelset. That obviously means I'll need to use a 6-speed cassette with the rest of the bike rigged for my primary 9-speed wheels, so I won't want to be meddling with derailleur adjustments too much if I have it all trimmed up for those.
If I make it through the winter and am still taking it seriously, I plan to buy a whole new rig next spring with a properly integrated groupset etc - I just want what I have at hand to get me through to then.
Hope that makes more sense and you don't think I'm raving mad any more!
I have a new (well new to me - got them second hand on eBay) pair of Mavic CXP33 clincher rims (got fed up with tubulars) on Ultegra 6500 hubs, on which I have put a 9-speed Ultegra cassette, and will use with a brand new pair of 9-speed Dura Ace downtube shifters - I was too tight to shell out for new 9-speed brifters when I'm currently only 'dipping my toe back in the water' after 12 or so years off my bike through laziness.
The GP4/Shimano 600 Uniglide combo are my old wheels, which are missing a few spokes and could generally do with some TLC, but they are nice wheels so I don't want to simply throw them away. I was thinking that I could sort the worn cogs out, put in some new spokes and true them up, and use them as a spare wheelset. That obviously means I'll need to use a 6-speed cassette with the rest of the bike rigged for my primary 9-speed wheels, so I won't want to be meddling with derailleur adjustments too much if I have it all trimmed up for those.
If I make it through the winter and am still taking it seriously, I plan to buy a whole new rig next spring with a properly integrated groupset etc - I just want what I have at hand to get me through to then.
Hope that makes more sense and you don't think I'm raving mad any more!
#24
ride, paint, ride
Originally Posted by Mark Fear
I understand from Sheldon Brown's site that I could simply buy some Hyperglide sprockets, file off the large spline from those and use my existing 12 tooth Uniglide sprocket as the locking sprocket. Have I interpreted that correctly?
Final question - what would happen using it with 9-speed Dura Ace shifters - presumably the indexing would be all out, but it would be possible to friction shift?
Final question - what would happen using it with 9-speed Dura Ace shifters - presumably the indexing would be all out, but it would be possible to friction shift?
If your 9-speed shifters have friction capability (these are downtube levers?) then yes indeed, you can use friction mode to shift your six-speed cogset.
As for the spacing of your rear dropouts to accommodate either 126 or 130 OLD hubs, if your bike is steel, then you probably will not need to bend or otherwise permanently change the rear triangle. The difference is just 2mm per side, and in all but the most rigid of steel rear triangles, you can spread the spacing that much when you're installing the 130-length rear hub. It will just be a bit more of a struggle, but not that difficult. Then when you switch back to the 126, the springiness of the steel in your chainstays and seatstays will return it to the 126 spacing.
Don't forget to adjust the High and Low screws on your derailleur when you switch between 6-speed and 9-speed.