Why is it so hard to find Shimano Brake & Gear Cable sets?
 

I'm planning to change my road bike's brake and derailleur (SIS-41) cable/casements this spring and have been looking for Shimano Dura-ace cable sets in black. So far no luck on line, none at probikekit.com, none at the LBS ? Is there some kind of shortage of these cables that I haven't heard about?

Any suggestions?

Probably because its the same as the generic stuff but costs so much more that there is a very low demand for it.

Probikekit has a gear/brake cable+housing set for $17. Its generic but who cares, it works fine.

How about gray Dura Ace cable sets for $12/$15? http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...Cable+Set.aspx

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...Cable+Set.aspx

Cause people realized there's no need for "special" cable sets.

My LBS has them for ~$19.00 a set.

The Dura Ace sets are reasonably priced considering that you get stainless cables and the crimps and ferules that you'll need. My LBS charges $3 a foot for generic housing and $4 each for stainless cables. It was cheaper to buy the Dura Ace set, even at their price. I have Dura Ace cables and housings on my Gitane. The color is a blue-gray. I haven't seen Dura Ace housings in black.

Shimano housing is significantly better quality than the generic crap that Quality sells (and many LBS's use/sell). The Dura Ace outer housing seems to be the same as the other Shimano housing, only in a different gray color. Good stuff either way and much better than generic - remains flexable much longer.

The Dura Ace inner cables are stainless with a "slick" profile so they slide well. I'm not sure about the other Shimano cables but most likely they are stainless as well.

I've found the Shimano stuff (Dura Ace) is superior to the "by the foot" brand at the LBS's. Its more $ but since I switched over I've not had any corrosion or cable stickiness problems.

The "by the foot" stuff can be very good if it is quality lined housing. My LBS has a large spool of good, lined housing and will sell it to me for a reasonable price. You want to avoid unlined generic housing.

those black "slick" cables that come witht e the shimano cable and housing sets are SUCH a gimmick! usually, the black coating is gone from the inside of every bend in as little as two weeks worth of rides.

i love selling it though cause the mark up on that gimmick is through the roof.



you've failed to prove how the shimano stuff is any better than the "generic crap" that most shops sell. we sell both shimano and QBP from a roll and either lasts just as long and seems to be of the same quality.

The Dura-Ace SIS-SP41 casements are advertised as being pre-lubercated with a silicone grease that improves shifting and inhibits the migration of water into the casements. The cables are definitely "slick", you can tell just by pulling it through your hand. They are a lot smoother than any others I've looked at.

It would be interesting to find out what kind of bikes some of the above posters have. You don't put out big bucks on a good bike and then put crappy cables on it. If I had posted this thread on the Road Bike Forum I doubt we'd see much criticism about the cables not being worth the extra money, rather how much better some other really expensive cables are.

Dura-Ace housing only exists in gray.

Basically correct, depending on what you mean by "generic stuff."

The Jagwire stuff we get from Quality Bicycle Products is available in various quality levels, we go for the best only. Inner cables stainless steel, die-drawn to reduce friction.

Good quality lined housing, PROPERLY PEPARED AT THE ENDS AND CUT TO THE OPTIMAL LENGTH.

See also: http://sheldonbrown.com/cables

Sheldon "The Name Doesn't Matter" Brown

I prefer to buy cable housing by the metre because I cut it exactly to the length I want. That way, I run both my brake and shifter cables along the bars, do minimalist gracious curves, etc. But I agree with Sheldon that properly cutting cable housings to the ends don't scrape anything or restrict cable movement is an art.

BTW, the key in reducing corrosion is to make sure no cable housing ends up (sometimes difficult to do on a MTB). Then, rub a tiny bit of dry lube with your fingers on the cable itself, and you'll have something as good – and more durable – as the Teflon coating to prevent surface rust and allow the cable to move smoothly.