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Please help! My handlebar position is killing me. I have riser bars that keep me far too upright on my winter beater. I wanted to get lower and farther forward so I flipped them upside down and rotated them, swithed the cables, shifter, etc. to do that. Unfortunately, the bars are now angled forward (instead of swept backward) and this is killing my wrists while I ride. The problem is, it's an integrated headset and has a hole in it for the front brake cable. Here is a picture.





Im thinking of replacing the stem without a raise angle and a longer stem to get lower and further forward. This will allow me to flip the handlebars back the right way, but now they will be lower and further forward. Here is what I am thinking of doing and I can go two ways (but please suggest better ways?).

1. Get a Nashbar threadless stem adapter:

https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?sku=9755

and then a stem like this:

https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...20Road%20Stems

I will still need to drill a hole for the brake cable. Any strength concerns if I do this? I have heard of some kind of an adapter to route the cable around the stem but haven't seen one.


2. Or I can get another integrated set and drill a hole. I am just not sure that my handlebars will fit and that drilling a hole for the brake cable will over weaken the stem (I don't think so).

https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...20Road%20Stems

Please give my your input or better solution.

HillRider

It's not an "integrated" headset, it's a plain threaded headset with a quill stem. I assume you mean the front brake cable anchor is "integrated" into the stem.

Do not drill the new stem for the brake cable anchor. You can get a brake cable anchor that replaces one of the spacer washers under the headset's lock nut at Bike Tools Etc or Loose Screws. Just be sure to get the right diameter, either 1" or 1-1/8" to match your headset. Here is what you need:

https://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cg...em_id=LY-FPA03

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Thanks Hill, you're right, poor choice of words, quill stem. With a 90 degree stem, will I have enough room to route the cable around the stem without a really sharp bend?

HillRider

You may need to change the front brake housing and cable to get them long enough to reach the headset mounted hanger/adjuster. That is a common routing method and can be done without tight bends.

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Hill, I think I'm missing something here. I have cantilever brakes so the cable needs to pull straight up in the middle of the brake cross cable. If I do this, the cable bracket will be right below the stem. How do I thread the brake cable without drilling through the stem? My current bike has a stem with a big rise, but I want a 90 stem so I don't think there will be any room. If I swing the adapter out to the side, it won't be pulling straight up on the middle of the cable?

Grand Bois

click this:

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Dirt: Thanks for the shot but that points directly to my concern. You have a pretty sharp bend on a stem with a big rise. I want a 90 degree stem or even negative angle. I am concerned the cable won't make the sharp turn.

HillRider

You can run the housing either in front of the handlebars or behind them, whichever gives the straightest approach to the cable stop bracket. The bracket does have to face directly forward to align properly with the straddle wire as you noted. A reasonably tight radius loop, as long as it's smooth, won't cause any problems with braking.

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Thanks Hill. I found a bracket with a 1" drop that should do the job. I'll try it tomorrow.