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I'll ASSume the bike has:
28-38-48 T chainrings 11-32T cassette Correct me if I'm wrong. If you never reach the highest gear (48-11), you might consider a 12-23 (or 12-26?) cassette. This will give you much closer spacing so that when the headwind/tailwind is a few MPH different, you have a better chance of having an "appropriate" gear combination for that specific condition. This will still give you around 32-33 gear inches on the bottom end. That should be low enough for most any hill you encounter. What's the highest and lowest gear combos you presently use? |
2 Attachment(s)
that's an easy one. I think these will give you the performance you're looking for. ;)
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Originally Posted by dydst
Hello all,
I've been riding my 2003 Giant Cypress Dx (hybrid) to work and for pleasure for some time now, approximately 100 miles/wk. While certainly not a "great" bike, it meets my needs, and has really grown on me. I was thinking about modifying/upgrading the bike. What would give me the best value for the money? For instance, I was thinking about upgrading/replacing the derailers. Would that noticeably improve my ride? Or, on a bike like this, would people suggest that I simply save my money for a better bike? Could anyone make some suggestions? Thanks! The point is you'll only get what you want if you know what you want. |
Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
Actually, it's all up to him or her. ;-)
When I was able to commute by bicyle, I rode SPDs and stayed in them all day with no problem. If he or she needs dress shoes at work, they don't have to be carried back and forth if they get left at work. Sheldon "SPD Sandals" Brown Code:
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Originally Posted by Garandman
Here is a my dilemma. I looked at an eBay auction of the following:
Used MAVIC / SHIMANO ULTEGRA 600 WHEEL SET * Auction Includes Both Front & Rear Wheel * Auction Includes Shimano Ultegra Hiperglide 8sp cassette 12-21 * 700c Clincher Road Bike * Front Skewer Included * Shimano 7/8/9 speed Compatible * Hubs are Shimano Ultegra 600 * Spokes 32 Front & Rear These wheels sold for $96 delivered. But I really don't know enough about wheels to determine what is and isn't a good deal, given that it's a commuter bike that will see a lot of bad weather. The bike has a Shimano 7 cassette, currently. Here's another set of wheels that seem like they will sell for very little: # Wheel(s) Make = Weinmann # Wheel Model = DP810 # Wheel Size = 700c # Tubular/Clinchr = Clincher # W. Spokes Front = 36 # W. Spokes Rear = 36 # Hub- Front = Shimano # Hub- Rear = Shimano How do I figure out if they are an improvement? I can't even find out specifications for what these wheels weighs. Also it appears you can use a spacer with a 7 cog cassette on these wheels, but where do I find them? |
The first listed was near new - they looked like new. The second set of rims listed is brand new.
Here's a "duh" question. I'm using 35 or 38mm tires. Is there a code for rim widths? I see from Sheldon Brown's article on tire sizing that rims have internal widths from 13 to 25mm, and found an ISO spec but don't see a code or even mention in most advertisements. High strength is preferable for this application over lightest weight. My neighbor and I (we'll both ride it) both weigh well over 200 lbs. |
Originally Posted by Barabaika
The cheapest way to improve your speed is to buy narrower tires instead of your 700x40.
For example, Performance has 700x28 for $10 each: http://www.performancebike.com/shop/...tegory_ID=5420 http://www.performancebike.com/shop/...tegory_ID=5425 They run a little small. Mine are 33 to 34 mm after several days on the bike. At their rated 90 psi they run well. If they last 3k miles, at this price I'll buy another pair. Let you know a year from now. I've tried other Performance house brands with varying degrees of success. These seem like a winner. |
Originally Posted by Garandman
The first listed was near new - they looked like new. The second set of rims listed is brand new.
Here's a "duh" question. I'm using 35 or 38mm tires. Is there a code for rim widths? I see from Sheldon Brown's article on tire sizing that rims have internal widths from 13 to 25mm, and found an ISO spec but don't see a code or even mention in most advertisements. High strength is preferable for this application over lightest weight. My neighbor and I (we'll both ride it) both weigh well over 200 lbs. As far as rim widths go, i don't recognise your sizes (35, 38mm) as standard 700c widths... But then I'm pretty new to road bike sizes, so that means nothing. |
Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
<snip>The adjustable stem is heavy and clunky, and once you figure out where the bars want to be, you really don't need the adjustability any more.
I put an adjustable stem on my road bike at the beginning and every few weeks I was able to stretch out my riding position. Had I gone with the position which was comfortable a year and a half ago, I would be nowheres near as aerodynamic as I am now and I'd hardly be able to maintain the blistering 15-16mph commute. |
One more question guys -- The Giant website says that my Cypress Dx has "Alloy 32" rims. What is the smallest size tire that I could (safely) put on my wheels? 700c X 32? Smaller?
Thanks! |
Originally Posted by dydst
One more question guys -- The Giant website says that my Cypress Dx has "Alloy 32" rims. What is the smallest size tire that I could (safely) put on my wheels? 700c X 32? Smaller?
Thanks! |
Originally Posted by Hambone
As somebody who went from a casual rider to a much more serious (well, regular at least...) rider in the past year+, I have to disagree.
I put an adjustable stem on my road bike at the beginning and every few weeks I was able to stretch out my riding position. Had I gone with the position which was comfortable a year and a half ago, I would be nowheres near as aerodynamic as I am now and I'd hardly be able to maintain the blistering 15-16mph commute. |
Originally Posted by froze
But where is Sheldon wrong? You even said you readjusted your stem and now found a new more aero position...couldn't this been done without an adjustable stem? Of course it could have, thus the adjustable stem is heavy and clunky as Sheldon had said.
(I knew I was treading on dangerous ground when I disagreed with Sheldon...) |
Wow . . .
In reponse to some suggestions, I put a pair of 700 x 26's on last night. What a difference! It's amazing! It's like I'm riding a completely different bike. Of course, I took a split sidewalk way too fast -- something that my thicker tires could have handled -- and really bit it. Oh well, lesson learned! For those that have been making suggestions -- thanks again. |
Originally Posted by Hambone
(I knew I was treading on dangerous ground when I disagreed with Sheldon...)
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Originally Posted by Hambone
As somebody who went from a casual rider to a much more serious (well, regular at least...) rider in the past year+, I have to disagree.
I put an adjustable stem on my road bike at the beginning and every few weeks I was able to stretch out my riding position. Had I gone with the position which was comfortable a year and a half ago, I would be nowheres near as aerodynamic as I am now and I'd hardly be able to maintain the blistering 15-16mph commute. The original poster already has an adjustable stem. Adjustable stems are good for figuring out what's the best bar position--but once that has been determined it is not unreasonable to replace it with a fixed stem that provides the same position, especially if you're concerned about weight. It's unfortunate that the garden variety adjustable stems just pivot in an arc, so you can either have high and close or low and far--but you can't have high and far nor low and close. The old "Major Taylor outrigger" type offered independent adjustment for reach and height. The advent of "pop top" stems (as most adjustable stems are) is a great boon for fitting, because it makes stem swapping so easy. Sheldon "Technomic" Brown |
Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
I don't think we necessarily disagree...
The original poster already has an adjustable stem.
Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
Adjustable stems are good for figuring out what's the best bar position--but once that has been determined it is not unreasonable to replace it with a fixed stem that provides the same position, especially if you're concerned about weight.
It's unfortunate that the garden variety adjustable stems just pivot in an arc, so you can either have high and close or low and far--but you can't have high and far nor low and close. The old "Major Taylor outrigger" type offered independent adjustment for reach and height. The advent of "pop top" stems (as most adjustable stems are) is a great boon for fitting, because it makes stem swapping so easy. Sheldon "Technomic" Brown |
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