Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  

Go Back   > >

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

User Tag List

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-16-03, 02:13 PM   #1
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
triple to double chainring?

A couple years ago, I bought my first "more-than-recreational" road-bike and it has a triple chainring. At the time, I thought more is better, but I'm finding out that's not necessarily the case. Seems like the extreme chain angle doesn't allow me to use many of the gears effectively.

So now I'm thinking, as the teeth begin wearing down, that I'd like to go back to a double. What are the issues here? Do I need a new derailleur too, or a rear cogset? Do I need to add/remove chain links? Just wondering how big a project this may grow in to!!!
jawon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-03, 03:04 PM   #2
On Your Right
ZackJones's Avatar
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Warner Robins, GA
Posts: 1,422
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Jawon: Welcome to the forums. This topic has been discussed a good bit recently (I think in the mechanics section). Basically you'll need to replace front and rear derailleurs, chain rings, bottom bracket and while you're at it you might as well replace the chain and cassette.

"You never fail, you simply produce results. Learn from these" - Anonymous
ZackJones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-03, 03:16 PM   #3
The Red Lantern
Rev.Chuck's Avatar
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 5,965
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
What is the spec of the parts? You might be able to get away with simply a BB change, to improve chainline, and removal of the smallest ring.
Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. Its free, and only takes 27 seconds!
Help out the forums, abide by our community guidelines.

I am in the woods and I have gone crazy.
Rev.Chuck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-03, 04:21 PM   #4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 898
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
The only item that MUST be changed to go from a triple to a double crankset is the crankset, itself. Things that MAY have to be changed are the BB, FD and RD. Things that probably SHOULD be changed are the chain and cassette.

The BB may need to be changed if you cannot adjust it enough to work with the new double crankset. For instance, with a BB that uses the internal nuts you can adjust the BB left or right with these nuts. Or, with something like a Phil Wood BB, you can slide the spindle through the press-fit bearings to work with either a triple or double. If these adjustments don't work, you will need a new BB.

Same with the FD. A triple can be adjusted to work with a double. You will simply have to put up with the additional travel that you don't need to move the chain the required distance needed with a triple. But, FDs are relatively inexpensive, so I would think this is a part that you would go for. But you generally don't HAVE to do so.

The RD from a triple will work just fine with a double. I used the long cage RD with both. Shifting is a bit slower due to the long length of the cage, but works just fine with either. If I was going to race, I would opt for the short cage RD to get the quicker shifts. But I don't, so the long cage that works with the triple works just fine with the double.

Depending on the mileage and condition of your chain and cassette you may wish to change them to start out with everything new. If opt for using your old you may find that they wear out your chainrings on your new double faster than a new set would. Also, you may need to remove a few links from the chain should you decide you want the new RD with short cage. However, if you stay with the triple RD you will not need to remove any links. Most likely your triple is a 30/42/53 and your double will be a 39/53, or close to this. The length of the chain depends on your big chainring, so they are the same or within a tooth of each other, so the chain should work fine.

If it were me and I knew that I was going to stay with the double, I would replace everything with what I wanted for a double and sell the triple parts as a group on eBay. If in decent condition you will probably get about 40-50% of the cost of the new components, assuming you are buying the same quality level. For instance, selling a Centaur (or Ultegra) triple and buying a Centaur (or Ultegra) double.

Have fun!!
ParamountScapin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-03, 04:49 AM   #5
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 156
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
The easiest way of converting a triple to a double is to take off the smallest chainring. Loosen the cable, Reset the low screw on the FD to the middle ring, click the shifter to the lowest position, retighten the cable to the FD but cable to be loose. In this position you won't chain rub on the FD for the cogs 1-5 from the wheel, when the chain starts to rub, click again, this will 'trim' for the rest of the cogs but not enough to shift to the big ring. However you won't be able to use all the cogs on the big chain without rubbing but then again you shouldn't be Big-big ratio.
This is a tricky job, I have to take to a few LBS before finding somebody cluely to do in 5 mins and cost me AUD5.00.
spinner5339 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-03, 06:18 PM   #6
John E
feros ferio
John E's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2000
Bikes: 1959 Capo; 1980 Peugeot PKN-10; 1981 Bianchi; 1988 Schwinn KOM-10;
Posts: 18,334
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 424 Post(s)
I would vote to keep the triple, but to tighten up the gear range, with a closer-ratio freehub and/or a larger inner chainring. The only drawback of the triple is that you cannot use as many of the larger cogs with the outer chainring, but you can more than make up for this by finding similar ratios on the other two rings.
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324
Capo: 1960 Sieger, S/N 42624
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1981 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
John E is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-03, 06:18 AM   #7
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: mass
Posts: 942
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Keep the tripple, if you're having shifting problems it's a tuning issue, have an experianced tech tune your bike.
mrfix is offline   Reply With Quote

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:34 AM.

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to and affiliated sites.
  • Ask a Question
    get answers from real people!
Click to start entering your question.