rear wheel "dogtracks"
04-06-07, 07:15 PM
#1
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rear wheel "dogtracks"
I've got a GT bike with the "I-drive" style swingarm frame that I hadn't been having any problems with, until I changed tires.
I replaced the fairly smooth street style tires with a set of fairly knobby dirt trail tires, and when I ride the bike now, the most "outboard" set of knobs on the (edge of the tire) left side rubs the inside of the frametube (bottom rail)
Some of this is due to the wheel needing to be trued, as the tire does not rub for a full rotation... but after a close visual inspection I can see that even after a truing, the wheel will be cocked slightly towards the left side of the bike,
Even on the portion of the rim that does not require truing, I might have a quarter inch clearance between the tire and the frame tube on the left side, and 7/16 inch on the right side.
Since the frame does not have tensioning slots like my old schwinn once had, it's not just the easy matter of loosening the axel nuts and re-aligning the axis of the wheel.
A friend says that a "brute force" adjustement to the frame is in order.
Is this true? and if so what is the best way to make such an adjustment?
Thanks for any suggestions
I replaced the fairly smooth street style tires with a set of fairly knobby dirt trail tires, and when I ride the bike now, the most "outboard" set of knobs on the (edge of the tire) left side rubs the inside of the frametube (bottom rail)
Some of this is due to the wheel needing to be trued, as the tire does not rub for a full rotation... but after a close visual inspection I can see that even after a truing, the wheel will be cocked slightly towards the left side of the bike,
Even on the portion of the rim that does not require truing, I might have a quarter inch clearance between the tire and the frame tube on the left side, and 7/16 inch on the right side.
Since the frame does not have tensioning slots like my old schwinn once had, it's not just the easy matter of loosening the axel nuts and re-aligning the axis of the wheel.
A friend says that a "brute force" adjustement to the frame is in order.
Is this true? and if so what is the best way to make such an adjustment?
Thanks for any suggestions
Last edited by 48yearoldN00b; 04-06-07 at 07:25 PM.
04-06-07, 08:08 PM
#2
Making a kilometer blurry
Check the dish on your rear wheel (make sure the rim is centered between the axle locknuts).
04-07-07, 08:41 AM
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Rather than brute force correcting, why don't you just shim the dropout(is it horizontal?) with some thin aluminum.A tiny sheet of aluminum-maybe .005"-will change the rub by .02 or so.Put it on the side that rubs.
You can do the same if the dropouts are vertical. If you are into files, you can take a round file to the dropout also.Deepen the one with the most clearance.
Luck,
Charlie
PS The shim is a reversible answer.
You can do the same if the dropouts are vertical. If you are into files, you can take a round file to the dropout also.Deepen the one with the most clearance.
Luck,
Charlie
PS The shim is a reversible answer.
04-07-07, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 48yearoldN00b
I've got a GT bike with the "I-drive" style swingarm frame that I hadn't been having any problems with, until I changed tires.
I replaced the fairly smooth street style tires with a set of fairly knobby dirt trail tires, and when I ride the bike now, the most "outboard" set of knobs on the (edge of the tire) left side rubs the inside of the frametube (bottom rail)
Some of this is due to the wheel needing to be trued, as the tire does not rub for a full rotation... but after a close visual inspection I can see that even after a truing, the wheel will be cocked slightly towards the left side of the bike,
Even on the portion of the rim that does not require truing, I might have a quarter inch clearance between the tire and the frame tube on the left side, and 7/16 inch on the right side.
Since the frame does not have tensioning slots like my old schwinn once had, it's not just the easy matter of loosening the axel nuts and re-aligning the axis of the wheel.
A friend says that a "brute force" adjustement to the frame is in order.
Is this true? and if so what is the best way to make such an adjustment?
Thanks for any suggestions
I replaced the fairly smooth street style tires with a set of fairly knobby dirt trail tires, and when I ride the bike now, the most "outboard" set of knobs on the (edge of the tire) left side rubs the inside of the frametube (bottom rail)
Some of this is due to the wheel needing to be trued, as the tire does not rub for a full rotation... but after a close visual inspection I can see that even after a truing, the wheel will be cocked slightly towards the left side of the bike,
Even on the portion of the rim that does not require truing, I might have a quarter inch clearance between the tire and the frame tube on the left side, and 7/16 inch on the right side.
Since the frame does not have tensioning slots like my old schwinn once had, it's not just the easy matter of loosening the axel nuts and re-aligning the axis of the wheel.
A friend says that a "brute force" adjustement to the frame is in order.
Is this true? and if so what is the best way to make such an adjustment?
Thanks for any suggestions
