Installing a new fork and headset. Any tips?
 

I've known for a while my headset was on its last leg, and I've never liked my Winwood carbon cross fork -steer tube's too short, can't put a front rack on it and I generally don't allow carbon fiber on my property.

So I ordered a Surly Crosscheck fork and a Cane Creek S-2 headset.

Then my neighbor loaned me all the headset tools I'll need so I'm good to go. Or am I?

A few questions.

First, the star nut. One thing I don't have is the installer for that. Can I improvise? Or should I journey out to Performance to buy one.

Second, cutting the top tube. Once I figure out how long I want it (I have a pretty good idea, based on the current bike setup) do I need the special tool or can I just use my old friend, the hacksaw?

Third, pressing the headset into the bike. Do I remove the cartrige bearings from the headset and is there anything different with a cartrige headset that I need to do?

And finally, how long will my present headset hold out? It's indexed and I'm having a real hard time finding a point of adjustment where it's not binding and not clunking either. Is there a danger in riding bike with a too tight, or too loose headset. If I had to choose, which is the lesser of two evils?

Thank you.

http://www.parktool.com/repair/byreg...mageField2.y=9

Bob

Go to www.parktool.com and read about installing headsets, way better description that I could give you. Oh, and don't cut the top tube.

For tube cutting, I've found that a plumbers tubing cutter of the appropriate size works well. Replace the cutting wheel with one for steel, not copper pipe.

Chamfer the inside and outside of the cut with a file or sanding belt. (the outside)

Star washers can be driven in with a bolt and care but the tool is one of those "boy do I wish I'd had one of these before" and its not that expensive.

The real problem for the inexperienced is pressing the crown race onto the fork. FSA makes a couble of nice headsets with a split ring crown race. On by hand. Done.

I cut the steerer before I put in the star nut. Right?

Also, I have a crown race installer. Tested it on an old BMX frame and fork I had lying around in my garage.

Sounds like the OP already has a headset which does not have a split crown race.

Search here for "crown race pvc" for discussions about using a section of PVC pipe and a concrete slab to press the race. It's cheap and easy to do.

Yes, cut the steerer before installing the star nut. As for cutting the steerer, a hacksaw with a fine blade works great on alloy. If you don't have a proper cutting guide, a small steel band clamp makes a fine cutting guide. Use a fine file to clean it all up when you are done.

Why would he cut the top tube?

OP said top tube, I just busted his improper use of terminology. " Second, cutting the top tube. Once I figure out how long I want it ...." DUH, of course i knew he meant steerer tube!

Now on to that, keep it a bit long, maybe an inch of spacers above the stem. Ride it a good bit, fiddle around with different height and THEN make the final cut. Measure twice or thrice, cut once. You can pound in the starnut with a ghetto rig. Put in a bolt you don't care about, pound it in to get it started then use a socket just narrower than the steerer tube ID and gently tap it down. that should keep it nice and straight. Rule of thumb is approx. 15mm belot the top.

Yeah, I meant steerer tube. I only need to take off about 1/2" of steerer tube.